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04-05-2012, 01:31 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by westmill Quote
Nikon is the best but the pentax is no slouch. You can genraly be far more accurate with the Nikon because the focus point are about one sixth the
size too. As long as you pick a reasonable size thing to focus on in the first place the K5 is both fast and accurate.
Pre focus method is far easier than it sounds too. Its not always possable though. If you were taking pics of a 100 meter race, and you wanted
to catch that winner breaking that ribbon, prefocussing on that ribbon and hitting that shutter at the right moment will almost certainly beat shooting
10 frames a second, which could miss that precise frame even at that speed. People have been taking sports pics long before autofocus
I guess I'd like for Pentax to show the actual size of the focus area in the viewfinder then, instead of a little dot.
Besides, I went in the shop to have a look at the Nikon D7000 and that thing isn't weather sealed, something I do appreciate a lot with the K-5.

I would put up a ribbon for the first rider coming through the track, if it wasn't for those pesky officials guarding the trails

04-05-2012, 04:09 AM   #32
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Once I found a configuration I liked, I saved it as a USER mode in my K-5 and gave it a name. USER mode lets me turn my K-5 into the equivalent of five cameras in one. Makes it easy to reconfigure the camera to fit a reoccurring, or familiar setting.

I set the shutter to continuous high with focus priority, then turn off everything the camera does that may slow down data transfer to the SD card (SR, NR, etc.). Plus, I use TAV mode with auto ISO (80-25600) and -0.7 EV (sunny), or -0.3 (cloudy). The purpose is to minimize my decision making and fiddling when confronted with decisive moments.

Works great!

Cheers... M
04-05-2012, 07:53 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikknu Quote
I used a shutter speed of 1/400 or 1/500 but maybe that wasn't fast enough to avoid smearing of the subject.
It's a little slow for action, aim for 1/1000 - 1/1250 to really freeze the subjects. At those speeds you won't need SR at all (it will just slow the camera down, and as crewl1 noted SR will get confused if you're panning).

Pete
04-05-2012, 08:06 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by Michaelina2 Quote
Once I found a configuration I liked, I saved it as a USER mode in my K-5 and gave it a name. USER mode lets me turn my K-5 into the equivalent of five cameras in one. Makes it easy to reconfigure the camera to fit a reoccurring, or familiar setting.

I set the shutter to continuous high with focus priority, then turn off everything the camera does that may slow down data transfer to the SD card (SR, NR, etc.). Plus, I use TAV mode with auto ISO (80-25600) and -0.7 EV (sunny), or -0.3 (cloudy). The purpose is to minimize my decision making and fiddling when confronted with decisive moments.

Works great!

Cheers... M
I think I'll do this, too. I miss the SR lever on the K-10, and I think it does help being able to turn it off. A dedicated fast-shooting mode should be useful.

04-05-2012, 11:51 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Michaelina2 Quote
Once I found a configuration I liked, I saved it as a USER mode in my K-5 and gave it a name. USER mode lets me turn my K-5 into the equivalent of five cameras in one. Makes it easy to reconfigure the camera to fit a reoccurring, or familiar setting.

I set the shutter to continuous high with focus priority, then turn off everything the camera does that may slow down data transfer to the SD card (SR, NR, etc.). Plus, I use TAV mode with auto ISO (80-25600) and -0.7 EV (sunny), or -0.3 (cloudy). The purpose is to minimize my decision making and fiddling when confronted with decisive moments.

Works great!

Cheers... M
Never really thought of it that way, you do make a very good point! I should make an action panning and setting...
04-05-2012, 11:56 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by bikecoboss Quote
It's a little slow for action, aim for 1/1000 - 1/1250 to really freeze the subjects. At those speeds you won't need SR at all (it will just slow the camera down, and as crewl1 noted SR will get confused if you're panning).

Pete
Thanks for the input, will have to try that. The only problem there for me is, that a lot of the time it's cloudy and it's in the forest, so even on an aperture of F/2.8 with a shutter speed of 1/1000 the ISO value can go above 2000.
04-05-2012, 12:06 PM   #37
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Hell.... thats why God invented the K5 !!!!!!!!!
04-05-2012, 12:37 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by westmill Quote
Hell.... thats why God invented the K5 !!!!!!!!!
And noise reduction software

04-06-2012, 05:12 AM   #39
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I know the answer will be in the manual, which I will check ASAP, but this is great stuff about the user modes - which I haven't gotten into yet, so I'll just ask!

So, will user modes store SR on v off/AF.S vs AF.C/5 vs 11 AF pts etc. to be instantly switchable w/o any other button pushes?
04-06-2012, 05:30 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by jmg257 Quote
I know the answer will be in the manual, which I will check ASAP, but this is great stuff about the user modes - which I haven't gotten into yet, so I'll just ask!

So, will user modes store SR on v off/AF.S vs AF.C/5 vs 11 AF pts etc. to be instantly switchable w/o any other button pushes?
In a word.... Yes ! It will even save .... Raw or Jpg setting too. If you have a fave way and method of shooting It should automaticly
take you right to all settings. Its a very handy mode.
04-06-2012, 08:16 AM - 1 Like   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikknu Quote
... I should make an action panning and setting...
Since photography is mostly light related, my basic USER mode settings are set to respond to that phenomenon. When I go out on a shoot (which is every day), I look to the sky and align my USER mode appropriately (sunny vs. cloudy). Also, I use TAV (almost) exclusively (auto iso 80-25,600) configured to F8 and 1/500 as a basic setting. In the field, I let auto iso adjust to fit the light I'm encountering. If the subject needs more speed, I turn the wheel and make the change on the fly while looking at the settings through the viewfinder. If I wish to fine tune the DOF, again, I make that change. Rarely do I fiddle with iso settings. In fact, I find iso up to 20000 easy to address in post.

A lot of this has to do with knowing your gear and that takes time shooting in a variety of settings and conditions to feel comfortable. A good place to practice and learn is at your local zoo. Take your most extreme gear and consider each shot a disposable experiment. If it's a cr*p shot, delete it. I like to go with a DA 10-17 'Fish-eye' and DA*300 and shoot them exclusively (a swimming Polar Bear's paw/claw can be truly magnificent). After several excursions, you should be ready for almost anything.

Cheers... M
04-09-2012, 06:41 AM   #42
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I programmed the fast-shot mode as my first user-mode. I have only tried it once so far, tracking one of the dogs in the park, and it seemed to work pretty well. Now to photograph the swallows on the river...they fly close to the riverwalk (10-20 feet at closest).
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