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04-24-2012, 08:47 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mehlsack Quote
Every Manufacturer of climbing harnesses is strongly recommending the use of the belay loop. In some parts of the world it is the ONLY part of the harness which really IS tested according to its breaking point etc.!
Thanks for your concern. We worked closely with the American Mountain Guide Association, with whom I am also certified, as well as relying on our collective 50+ years of experience as a staff, to assure that we teaching the best practices, and finding the best balance between what is safe, what is current, and what is common.

I understand that this post was a misunderstanding, but for further clarification... All harness manufacturers recommend that the belay loop is only for belaying or other hard point of contact, like rappelling, or clipping into a rope rather than tying in. Basically, anytime you are attaching your self via carabiner, the belay loop is to be used. Whereas, anytime you are connecting to a soft point of contact, like tying into the rope, girth hitching a daisy chain or sling as a tether, then you are to go through both your tie in points, the same two points the belay loop goes through, as they are reinforced for additional abrasion of a soft on soft connection.

There are also many practical advantages, aside from safety, as to why this method is better. For one, it's neater. The knot, when tied through the tie in point, is lower down, versus introducing the extra length of the belay into the system and have a knot in your face when you're hanging on the rope. Also, the knot stay in place better through the tie in points, rather than flopping about like it does when you tie into the belay loop. I find that the user experience is just nicer when tied into the tie in points.

Glad there are some fellow rock climbers on the forum!

QuoteOriginally posted by Mehlsack Quote
Ok, back to topic.

I really like the movie, have you adjusted any colors in the software (Final Effects) ?
I used REd Giant's Magic Bullet Looks 2, which is a plug in for FCPX, and other programs.

QuoteOriginally posted by Mehlsack Quote
For some seconds the sounds a bit off because the instructor is not turning to the "right" camera. Maybe a Stick or Pole with the mic above the instructor might be a better solution?
I think I know what spot you're talking about. There's ont point where she turns her head viewer's left when holding up the knot. We were using a boomed shotgun mic. But the problem was that it was angled in from camera right, and as close in as we could get it without being in the frame, which was all fine as long as she was facing forwards. But there was also a cliff wall just out of frame left, so when she turned her head away from the mic and towards the wall, the shotgun is picking up her echo about as evenly as her voice for that brief moment.

04-24-2012, 08:51 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by panoguy Quote
Watch the video again before risking your own (or someone else's) safety. The video is about tying into the rope as the climber, not the belayer! Belay technique was not addressed.

That link you have is from a person who is trying to correct poor instruction in belaying. Don't confuse it with climbing! That big loop on the harness is called the "belay loop" specifically because it is there for a 'biner and belay device to be attached to the harness of the person on the ground.

No harness manufacturer recommends the belay loop (if present) as the sole point of safety for tying into as the climber! Look at this link from Petzl - and the section on "tying in!" The belay loop is big, so the point of attachment will slide, not to mention the loop itself is not intended for the falling impact from a climber (note how the Petzl diagrams avoid that loop, except in belaying or rappelling!). The impact of a fall (in kN) is much greater for the climber than the belayer (it's physics: that's why my 110lb wife can easily belay and stop someone twice her weight or more, during a fall). Please be safe and don't quickly dismiss a video (or your weblink) if you don't fully understand them.

NB: I've been climbing for 10 years, and lost a friend who let someone else rig his line for an industrial job. I feel strongly about this.
Good explanation.

Sorry for your loss! That's why I'm super paranoid about climbing on other people's setups. I've just seen too many hack job anchors in my life. I will almost never climb on a toprope, or on an anchor, unless I've inspected it myself, or unless I'm with a partner who I know from experience I can trust to build safe anchors. A lot of time you run into situations at crags where different parties have their ropes up, and then eventually everyone starts trading ropes. I'll always either go up top and check things out anyways, or at the very least, as the party a few questions about the setup. You can usually gauge by how they answers if they know what they're doing or not.
04-24-2012, 09:42 AM   #18
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Here's a cool video that shows how to use a circular neutral density filter to control the aperture with the K5


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