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10-09-2012, 03:26 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by RonHendriks1966 Quote
Didn't do any measurement, but I did time my framerate and that was little over 9fps.
Something wrong with your camera, send it in for repair?.

10-09-2012, 04:38 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by tabl10s Quote
So,
Don't shoot at:ISO 80, don't use max quality,...correct?
Max 4 star JPG quality and resolution is fine, just tell the camera not to bother with doing optical corrections to the JPG's, since that takes extra time per image.

And I don't mean NOT to use low ISO.

Use an ISO as low as you can go if you want the highest fps. The tests the camera manufacturers do for fps are all run at ISO 100 for a reason - lower ISO means smaller files means faster fps.

But if you are shooting sports with long tele lenses, for example, ISO 80 or ISO 100 in low light @1/300 second shutter are not always going to work, so all I am suggesting is that if you want optimal fps, put a lid on how high the camera can go with ISO, by either setting a manual ISO at a moderate high (eg 800), or setting the Auto ISO to only range between 100 and 1600, or something.
10-09-2012, 08:07 PM   #18
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A tad confused. An ISO of 800 gives slower FPS than ISO 80?!
10-09-2012, 08:08 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by tabl10s Quote
A tad confused. An ISO of 800 gives slower FPS than ISO 80?!
As another user said, the more noise, the larger the file size.

Also, shooting jpeg, jpeg files can be larger or smaller depending on the subject shot.

10-09-2012, 08:19 PM   #20
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Okay.
10-10-2012, 12:49 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ex Finn. Quote
Something wrong with your camera, send it in for repair?.
Well I don't look at my equipement with the idea that something is wrong with it, I just work with it and deal with the the thing I encounter. I made with my K-5's around 250.000 images, so I don't stop and start to cry when one is not as I would like.
10-10-2012, 01:45 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by RonHendriks1966 Quote
Well I don't look at my equipement with the idea that something is wrong with it, I just work with it and deal with the the thing I encounter. I made with my K-5's around 250.000 images, so I don't stop and start to cry when one is not as I would like.
10-10-2012, 02:17 PM - 1 Like   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by doggydude Quote
Ummm...how do you "overcharge" the battery...?

Or is this like telling someone to make sure the shutter fluid is topped up?
Or turn the amp up to 11?

10-10-2012, 02:54 PM   #24
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I ripped this from Battery university.
Charging Lithium-Ion Batteries ? Battery University

" Overcharging Lithium-ion

Lithium-ion operates safely within the designated operating voltages; however, the battery becomes unstable if inadvertently charged to a higher than specified voltage. Prolonged charging above 4.30V forms plating of metallic lithium on the anode, while the cathode material becomes an oxidizing agent, loses stability and produces carbon dioxide (CO2). The cell pressure rises, and if charging is allowed to continue the current interrupt device (CID) responsible for cell safety disconnects the current at 1,380kPa (200psi).

Should the pressure rise further, a safety membrane bursts open at 3,450kPa (500psi) and the cell might eventually vent with flame. The thermal runaway moves lower when the battery is fully charged; for Li-cobalt this threshold is between 130150CC (266302F), nickel-manganese-cobalt (NMC) is 170180C (338356F), and manganese is 250C (482F). Li-phosphate enjoys similar and better temperature stabilities than manganese.

Lithium-ion is not the only battery that is a safety hazard if overcharged. Lead- and nickel-based batteries are also known to melt down and cause fire if improperly handled. Nickel-based batteries have also been recalled for safety concerns. Properly designed charging equipment is paramount for all battery systems.

"Overcharging" could be a bad idea.
10-10-2012, 03:09 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by RobA_Oz Quote
Or turn the amp up to 11?
I used to work on amps that had been turned up to 12. Pretty labor intensive to replace finals, drivers, pre-drivers and bunch of smoked resistors in both channels, not to mention the cost of the parts. Those were the good old days
10-10-2012, 03:36 PM   #26
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24 RAWs

QuoteOriginally posted by rawr Quote
... shoot JPG only...
?
I shoot in RAW only.
And I love it. ~24 frames non stop throw about three seconds.

Strzelam tylko w RAWach.
I uwielbiam to. Ok. 24 klatki w ok. trzy sekundy.
10-10-2012, 03:54 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by romeck Quote
I shoot in RAW only.
Sure, the buffer can cope with ~24 RAW frames.
But if speed is the priority, JPG will be faster, if only because JPG files will be smaller and quicker to write to disk.
10-16-2012, 05:50 PM   #28
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How many frames should you have before the buffer fills up? This past Sunday I shot five frames@10MP's(Jpg)and the camera wouldn't fire while the yellow LED was still lit.
10-16-2012, 06:42 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by tabl10s Quote
How many frames should you have before the buffer fills up?
See this 2010 thread:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-5/123121-k5-firmware-v1-01-performance-report.html

Basically 20-something RAW's, and dozens of JPEGS, depending on RAW format, ISO, file size, AFC settings etc etc.

I presume you are using:

- a decent SD card (Sandisk Class 6 or equivalent)
- the newest K-5 firmware.
10-16-2012, 07:52 PM   #30
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I just traded my LX for a low shutter count '5 and it still has the original firmware. I've downloaded 1.13, but the card reader I have isn't recognized by the PC.
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