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01-06-2013, 01:14 PM   #16
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Similar problem?

I had a similar problem with interval shooting, only instead of exposure differences, I found color tone differences. I had the camera shooting for hours on the night of a meteor shower. As I reviewed the shots, the color tone changed back and forth multiple times throughout the shots, resulting in groups of shots with a bluish tint, followed by groups of shots with a yellowish tint. The examples below are adjacent shots. I was on Manual, 15 sec at f5.6 at ISO 1600. I think I was shooting around every 30 seconds. I had WB set to auto and I wondered if this could possibly be the cause. Seems strange that WB could change on adjacent shots in a pretty static environment. The originals were RAW DNG, so I don't think WB could even be a factor, but it was the only thing I could think of. These are straight JPEG conversions in Adobe PSE with no edits, only resizing. They look just like the originals in PSE. Any ideas?

01-06-2013, 06:39 PM   #17
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If you are anywhere close enough to a city large enough to have skyglow from a cloud deck, what appears to be a constant color to our eyes is actualy a constantly shifting barrage of wavelengths. So if you have your camera set to AWB, be prepared to do a lot of pp to get the colors right. Much better to just set it to daylight and then you just have to adjust one frame and match all the others to it.

01-07-2013, 12:09 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Richard Spencer Quote
I selected a fairly high ISO so that the camera selected a fairly fast shutter speed to freeze the movement of the birds I was trying to shoot.
I would have guessed so. But you didn't get my point.

When you create a timelapse, you create a video. As a rule of thumb, exposure times are best around half the frame distance. So, in a 24fps cinema movie, 1/48s shutter is convenient.

Using faster shutter speeds leads to movies where movements appear to be stuttering rather than smooth. People associate this with amateur quality. Pros use ND filters to have slow shutter speeds!

In your case, 10s would be the ideal shutter speed, not 1/640s. A moving bird can't be seen anyway if it appears in a single frame only. It's just flickering dirt.

QuoteOriginally posted by dave2k Quote
I had WB set to auto
01-07-2013, 05:59 PM   #19
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Thanks Jack, that makes perfect sense to me now. I normally don't think too much about WB when I'm shooting outdoors, but if much of the light at night is coming from artificial sources, I see how it can be quite variable and needs to be taken into consideration.

01-08-2013, 10:19 AM   #20
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Thanks Jack from me as well. I am new to this time lapse thing and I am learning rather slowly.

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