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01-06-2013, 06:02 AM   #1
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K5 Exposure Accuracy in Interval Timer Mode.

Hi, I have a K5 since July 2012 and taken just over 5,000 shots. However, my love affair with it is under pressure.

Using the interval timer has been no problem until now. Yesterday I had camera set up in cloudless conditions taking shots of birds feeding. On - In camera playback - the shots alternate light - dark - light, although the information bar at bottom of LCD screen shows 1/640sec - F6.3 - ISO 400. Any suggestions please, as to what is wrong, do you know of a simple fix or do I need to return the camera to Pentax ?

Richard.

01-06-2013, 06:07 AM   #2
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Were you in manual mode?
01-06-2013, 06:14 AM   #3
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No, I was in aperture priority.

Richard.
01-06-2013, 06:16 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Richard Spencer Quote
Hi, I have a K5 since July 2012 and taken just over 5,000 shots. However, my love affair with it is under pressure.

Using the interval timer has been no problem until now. Yesterday I had camera set up in cloudless conditions taking shots of birds feeding. On - In camera playback - the shots alternate light - dark - light, although the information bar at bottom of LCD screen shows 1/640sec - F6.3 - ISO 400. Any suggestions please, as to what is wrong, do you know of a simple fix or do I need to return the camera to Pentax ?

Richard.
What was the interval time?

01-06-2013, 06:40 AM   #5
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The interval time was 20 seconds.
01-06-2013, 06:53 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Richard Spencer Quote
No, I was in aperture priority.

Richard.
If you check each picture, are they all taken at the same shutter speed/ISO?
01-06-2013, 07:06 AM   #7
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Yes, they all show 1/640sec. f6.3 ISO 400. Camera set on aperture priority and interval time of 20 seconds.
01-06-2013, 07:08 AM   #8
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Can you show examples? It sounds weird indeed.

01-06-2013, 07:20 AM   #9
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Yes I will do that, It will take me a few minutes.
01-06-2013, 07:36 AM   #10
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Thanks VisualDarkness and IchabodCrane, While this post has been going on I had the camera set up identical to yesterday, but with a different lens.

Yesterday Tamron 70-300 (old and very much used) -- exposure problems.

Today Sigma 17-70 (newer and less used) -- no problems.

Just goes to show how important it is to explore every avenue before posting a question.
May also mean a new 70-300 lens for me to purchase.

Thanks for your help and sorry to have wasted your time.

Richard.
01-06-2013, 07:50 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Richard Spencer Quote
Thanks VisualDarkness and IchabodCrane, While this post has been going on I had the camera set up identical to yesterday, but with a different lens.

Yesterday Tamron 70-300 (old and very much used) -- exposure problems.

Today Sigma 17-70 (newer and less used) -- no problems.

Just goes to show how important it is to explore every avenue before posting a question.
May also mean a new 70-300 lens for me to purchase.

Thanks for your help and sorry to have wasted your time.

Richard.
Glad that you found the problem, a sticky aperture!
01-06-2013, 08:18 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Richard Spencer Quote
Thanks for your help and sorry to have wasted your time.
Richard,

AFAIK, timelapse perfectionists are well aware of the problem. Therefore, they avoid short exposure times and try to leave the lens at its widest aperture (because on most lenses, a stopped down aperture is nort reproducible exactly enough). Moreover, they use software to correct for any remaining exposure variations (can be measured by integrating over all pixels).

In your case, ISO 400 is clearly a mistake as it shortens the exposure time for no benefit in a 20s interval timelapse.
01-06-2013, 08:52 AM   #13
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Thank you Falk. I am learning all the time. I selected a fairly high ISO so that the camera selected a fairly fast shutter speed to freeze the movement of the birds I was trying to shoot.
01-06-2013, 10:32 AM   #14
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This is the good thing about asking, now we got a thread here with perfect answers.
01-06-2013, 10:44 AM   #15
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As said Falk, there's always some flickers when you shot timelapse.
It's not really a problem with a bright blue sky, but a cloudy day with some light variations is problematic.

The solution is to remove the flickers in post production, i've made a tutorial (in French) about how to remove flickers & camera shake with 3 free softwares : VirtualDub, Deshaker & MSU Deflicker.
Deflicker is very easy, just add the plugin to Virtualdub, then open your image sequence, add the filter effect and export your sequence, it will be perfectly fine !

regards,
Arno
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