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01-24-2013, 08:16 PM   #1
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K5 with DA*300 white balance

I just acquired the DA*300 and noticed that most shots end up towards yellowish. I shoot raw, DNG, and all the white balance settings are in auto on the camera. It was especially apparent when shooting with a friend who has a D7000 nikon. He was comparing his and my shots taken at the same time, and as the afternoon went on and the light was going, my shots were more and more yellow even towards a rose tint, his stayed with a proper white balance.

I know this can be adjusted post, but three different software packages, Aftershot, Darktable and Photoshop rendered the auto white balance the same way, too warm. It seems to be lens related because I haven't had any issue with the variety of manual and auto lenses that I've used in the past.

Any suggestions?

01-24-2013, 08:33 PM   #2
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I find more of a blue tint when I use the 300 before edit, more yellow with auto WB post. Have you tried daylight WB post?Sorry wish I could help more..
01-24-2013, 09:08 PM   #3
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Here's my first thought.

You said you and your friend were comparing images through the afternoon as you were shooting - does that mean you were just looking at the images on the camera LCD screen? The reason I ask is this - even though you are shooting raw, the embedded jpeg you are viewing on the camera screen and also when you look at the thumbnails in your photo editor are using the jpeg settings from the camera. Do you have the camera jpeg settings set differently than the default?

Before you dig too far into this, check you jpeg settings - try setting it to the standard default for the K-5 which is "Bright" and the custom sliders in that screen will be green if they are set at default and yellow if you have moved them off the default value.

Once you open the images in Aftershot Pro etc., then what I've said above doesn't affect the images. From what you said at that point it does sound like a white balance issue. Also remember that the white balance settings that were used in the camera will affect the image once opened - the white balance settings are carried into your editor. As dane.dawg suggests, try some of the different white balance settings in your editor with the images you have that have the yellow cast.
01-24-2013, 09:16 PM   #4
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I use darktable. When there is a white balance issue I usually try "Spot white balance" first. It defaults to evaluating the whole frame but it works best if you can drag with the left mouse button and select a smaller (neutral gray is best) area. If that works, then I would back out that change and try Daylight. My DA*300 gives a neutral rendition, thankfully, but ambient light temperature is changing constantly so fixing up white balance is a necessary pp task.

Jack

01-24-2013, 10:19 PM   #5
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The images were compared on computers. It seems to be worse in overcast conditions. With blue skies it isn't as apparent. If I set wb post to cloudy in Darktable, a little bit cooler, it seems better. I was wondering if any settings in the body affect the auto wb values in the raw file.

Greyser mentioned the too warm tones in a post here, then my friend mentioned it today. It is all correctable post, but being somewhat lazy...
01-24-2013, 10:30 PM   #6
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Step one - Turn off AWB, it's evil.
Step two - Set your LCD tuning to neutral if it isn't already. Brightness, contrast, saturation, blue/amber, green/magenta, all zeroed. This won't affect your shots, but it will affect the way you see them. While you're at it, set your friend's LCD to neutral. Note: this is different from the image color presets.
Step three - Set your image presets to neutral so that the jpeg previews will accurately represent what is on you memory card.
Step four - Get a gray card, or if you really want super accurate color, an xrite color checker. In the same light where you'll be shooting, go into the white balance menu, choose custom white balance and then shoot your target to set it. I normally shoot the target one more time in regular shooting mode (i.e. outside of white balance mode) for reference later when editing. You may need to repeat this process every 90 minutes or so of shooting because as the sun sinks lower, the light will start to turn orange. Or you could just do it once, and let the orange cast suggest "afternoon" to your viewer. Either option is valid.
01-24-2013, 10:49 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by maxfield_photo Quote
Step one - Turn off AWB, it's evil.
Step two - Set your LCD tuning to neutral if it isn't already. Brightness, contrast, saturation, blue/amber, green/magenta, all zeroed. This won't affect your shots, but it will affect the way you see them. While you're at it, set your friend's LCD to neutral. Note: this is different from the image color presets.
Step three - Set your image presets to neutral so that the jpeg previews will accurately represent what is on you memory card.
Step four - Get a gray card, or if you really want super accurate color, an xrite color checker. In the same light where you'll be shooting, go into the white balance menu, choose custom white balance and then shoot your target to set it. I normally shoot the target one more time in regular shooting mode (i.e. outside of white balance mode) for reference later when editing. You may need to repeat this process every 90 minutes or so of shooting because as the sun sinks lower, the light will start to turn orange. Or you could just do it once, and let the orange cast suggest "afternoon" to your viewer. Either option is valid.
Thanks. I see on page 202 that this setting will be saved in the raw file. I presume that the post software will use that info as camera default.

Thank you for your help.
01-25-2013, 02:32 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by derekkite Quote
Thanks. I see on page 202 that this setting will be saved in the raw file. I presume that the post software will use that info as camera default.
Don't count on the post software using any info if you're shooting DNG. With PEF you have a better chance, at least.

Try the Pentax DCU software as a starting point, since it allows you to match the camera's JPEG settings (or choose the JPEG settings you wish you'd used) and apply them to the RAW file.


I do believe the DA*300 has a slightly more yellowish cast than some other lenses (including my older F*300), but I don't think it's dramatic enough that you'd notice it most of the time.

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