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02-04-2013, 04:10 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by klh Quote
I do a lot of swimming and diving photography in usually poor lighting, so I am stretching for every bit of shutter speed I can get. I have found that it's OK to be underexposed by 1-2 stops with the K-5. I correct it all in Lightroom using the techniques already mentioned.
I think that's another major bonus of underexposing. I was doing a few test shots and was able to stay on ISO 80 even in a dimly lit room at night, with the exposure compensation dialed into -1 EV.

02-04-2013, 02:45 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by klh Quote
I should have explained better. I shoot high school kids swimming and diving competitions at a pool. For the most part, I and my K-5 stay dry.

Ah....wouldn't dare being "that creepy guy taking pictures of high-school kids in swimwear"......when you said diving, my mind went to "scuba diving" and pictures of fish
02-04-2013, 03:15 PM   #18
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It depends how you want to use your camera, you can expose for effect or you can expose to maximise the most data, ETTR (Expose to the right) is the latter, it's a function of the A/D converter, there is more bit depth at the right hand side of the histogram than there is at the left hand (dark) side. Under exposing by one stop is the former.

I tend to bracket a lot as it's so easy with all Pentax models and card space and disc space is cheap, then I can get shots like this

Name:  09_CJ_Days Gone By.jpg
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Taken at Beamish in bright, contrasty sunlight.

If you want results out of the camera, then expose for effect, but you will limit the collected data, if your willing to do some post processing then expose for maximum data (i.e. ETTR), bracketing and ETTR gives me the above, but you have to work on it, so it's not for everybody.

In either case shoot Raw which (I think) rules out selecting expanded highlights or shadows as that only works on the Raw to Jpeg conversion in the camera, please correct me if I'm wrong.


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