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03-07-2013, 06:32 PM   #1
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EV compensation

I read a bunch of things in the past refering to Penatax cameras normally metering a bit low and taking slighlty under exposed photos and i have read that the K-5 was supposed to be different and that its photos tend to be a little over exposed. I'm not seeing it, nearly all my photos are about a full stop under exposed. I recently started setting the EVcomp at +1 and they look much better, to me anyway. Is there a better way to permanetly fix this or are the just certain conditions that make the camera meter think its metering correctly or not.

03-07-2013, 07:07 PM   #2
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My k-5 is permanently set to +2/3 stop. I adjust from there depending on conditions but I find I get better detail at +2/3. If I start to see any blinkies I'll drop it down a bit but that is rare except in extreme conditions. Different lenses will also affect this, particularly older ones, so I always take a test shot when I change lenses to make sure I'm still good.
03-07-2013, 11:19 PM   #3
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Put simply, if the scene is mostly white or bright, the camera should underexpose.
If the scene is mostly dark, the camera should over expose.
The reason is that the camera "assumes" all scenes are mid grey.

If you're using a wide (or wide-ish) angle lens, it will seem as if the camera is consistently under exposing, this is because there's normally a lot of bright sky in the shot or light coloured walls (interiors).

The solution is to think 'is this scene brighter or darker than mid grey?" if it's darker, then dial in a minus ev, if it's brighter, then dial in positive ev. But be careful with postive ev, because it's too easy to blow out bright areas with digital cameras. With my K7 I avoid adding positive ev to the shot at all times and then fix it in post processing. Over exposed areas in the K7 turn into nasty grey blobs far too easily!
03-08-2013, 02:06 AM - 1 Like   #4
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I am permanently on -1 Ev to not blow the highlights, because one can always recover shadows but not blown highlights...

03-08-2013, 02:59 AM   #5
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...also if you have highlight correction on, it tends to underexpose. might be the case...
03-08-2013, 05:42 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by ksm Quote
...also if you have highlight correction on, it tends to underexpose. might be the case...
I have wanted to learnmore about what each of those options did.

I just notice that almost everytime I import photos into lightroom, I'm bumping up the exposure or shadows, much more so than lowering the highlights. And its the case with all my lenses. Speaking of lightroom, i have never been satisified with the "auto" results. It bumps the exposure like plus 3 everytime and blows out everyting everytime. My stock window phot viewer does a much better job with auto but only does jpeg's
03-08-2013, 02:23 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by fs999 Quote
I am permanently on -1 Ev to not blow the highlights, because one can always recover shadows but not blown highlights...
not quite, while avoiding blown highlight is important, proper exposure is equally important to minimize noise level - people in the film days use ETTR (expose to the right)?
03-08-2013, 03:56 PM   #8
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I want to learn to ETTR mainly cause im tired of post processing everything. I think my exposure is improving but i still need to work on framing. Most of my processing these days is cropping, if i could just learn to frame then i could keep all my pixels. And my brother thinks photography isnt an art, i think its more of an art then most "artistic" things out there. The level of thinking i guess from most non-picture takers is that the technology has taken all the skill out of it.

03-08-2013, 04:26 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
not quite, while avoiding blown highlight is important, proper exposure is equally important to minimize noise level - people in the film days use ETTR (expose to the right)?
That was for the film. Recent films have better lattitude.
With the k5 you can underexpose up to 5 Ev, perhaps even more, without noise !
03-09-2013, 12:02 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by fs999 Quote
That was for the film. Recent films have better lattitude.
With the k5 you can underexpose up to 5 Ev, perhaps even more, without noise !
Even though the dynamic range of the k-5 can give me the latitude for up to 5Ev underexpose, I would still try to expose it properly (even if it is not ETTR) to keep minimum noise at certain iso; at least that is my experience anyway. You may be right, but I still try to keep that in mind, and I adjust EV often depending on the situations. However, since I am no expert on this, I will let others here to comment.
04-26-2013, 06:49 AM   #11
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Again I learned recently in a photo seminar from a real expert the good rule ETTR (expose to the right). This mainly to be able to benefit as much as possible from the dynamic range of sensor and the linear/nonlinear relationship. Of course this does only make sense with RAW/DNG images and not with JPG.

Is it possible to add allways a certain EV Compensation to the K-30? The compensation button (1) can be used for this, but each time the green button (2) is used, the EV value is reset. Sometimes I need the green button (2) for other purpose and I still like to have the EV compensation enabled. Seems like there is not solution, but in case I miss somethink, I say thank you for any hints.

Regards from Peter
04-26-2013, 08:45 AM   #12
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I shoot primarily in aperture priority - I set the front dial for ev control. Makes adjustment easy. I don't find that there is a bias. Try a test shot. Shoot an 18% grey card so it fills the view. Should have peak right in middle of histogram. If not, for that lens/camera you may need a permanent adjustment.
04-27-2013, 06:00 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by jrforman Quote
I shoot primarily in aperture priority - I set the front dial for ev control. Makes adjustment easy. I don't find that there is a bias. Try a test shot. Shoot an 18% grey card so it fills the view. Should have peak right in middle of histogram. If not, for that lens/camera you may need a permanent adjustment.
is this on auto white balance or does it not matter. I have been shooting a lot of aperture prioty myself lately. I need to look at my K5's settings again, it seems to have more noise then my K20 did at higher ISO but i think i had the noise reduction on max with the k20 all the time and im not sure what i put the K5 on.
04-27-2013, 06:48 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by aleonx3 Quote
not quite, while avoiding blown highlight is important, proper exposure is equally important to minimize noise level - people in the film days use ETTR (expose to the right)?
ETTR is a digital term! Basic film rules were: Slide film, expose for highlights; Print film, expose for shadows. Pentax cameras tend to underexpose a bit to protect from blown highlights since as previously stated, you can recover detail from the shadows, but once highlights are blown out, the details are lost.
04-27-2013, 07:08 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by no694terry Quote
bumps the exposure like plus 3 everytime and blows out
Just a thought, are you using a calibrated monitor to view your images in Lightroom?

Dependant on you monitor settings, this may also account for some of your viewing differences, further compounding your exposure issues in the camera.

Also are you shooting in raw or jpeg? As you know the settings like NR and WB only affect jpeg and the image you see on the rear camera screen. Raw is what it says raw, i.e. what the sensor saw and not processed in any way.
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