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10-03-2013, 08:35 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by crewl1 Quote
On the left dial you have a three position switch that changes the way the camera evaluates to exposes a scene: Entire scene (matrix), center weighted, or spot.
In any of the these cases the camera will make an attempt to arrive at what it considers the optimum exposure as compared to a 18% grey.

See this article for an explanation Camera metering modes explained

If the resulting exposure is consistently darker than what you expect based on your taste, you can change it using the exposure compensation function which is the +/- button to make the camera meter lighter + or darker -.

Enjoy your K-5 it is a wonderful camera.
Dear Crewl1,
so if I need to focus a particular zone of the picture it is better to use the center-weight or the spot. Am I correct?
Thanks for the information. I'll read the article you suggest.
I do not argue about the fact that the K-5 is a good camera, I know that the user (myself) is not at the same level :-))
Ciao
Ezio

10-03-2013, 08:41 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ezio49 Quote
Terry,
thanks for the information. I shall look to the forums.
Till now I never used RAW format. Being the possibility to save in both JPG and RAW at the same time, I shall try immediately.
Another impression I have is that the photo seen on the camera display has more light that on PC. May be my 6 years old PC needs to be changed too.
Thanks
Ciao
Don't replace your PC yet. The camera's LCD will always look different -the camera adjusts it for the LCD. This is very deceptive, and you can use the histogram display to determine if you're really out of bounds. Generally, though, it does OK at letting you know if you're very over-exposed. I have a similar problem at home with a very bright display, even though I've adjusted it down. If it looks good on my monitor it's a bit too dark on some others like notebooks.

Do be aware that RAW files are much larger, and storage could become an issue if you're like me and don't always bother to delete poor images....
10-03-2013, 08:53 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by TER-OR Quote
Don't replace your PC yet. The camera's LCD will always look different -the camera adjusts it for the LCD. This is very deceptive, and you can use the histogram display to determine if you're really out of bounds. Generally, though, it does OK at letting you know if you're very over-exposed. I have a similar problem at home with a very bright display, even though I've adjusted it down. If it looks good on my monitor it's a bit too dark on some others like notebooks.

Do be aware that RAW files are much larger, and storage could become an issue if you're like me and don't always bother to delete poor images....
Unless the image is completely wrong I mantain all the ones a take. I made that with the old cameras, imagine what I shall do with the new! In few time I shall have the portable HD full of pictures.
10-03-2013, 09:13 AM   #34
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Terry,
I charged and tested Paint.Net. It is very is to correct luminance and contrast. A doubt: why I charged a 7Mbite image and it stores in 4,5Mbite?
Thanks

10-03-2013, 09:15 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ezio49 Quote
Dear Crewl1,
so if I need to focus a particular zone of the picture it is better to use the center-weight or the spot. Am I correct?
Thanks for the information. I'll read the article you suggest.
I do not argue about the fact that the K-5 is a good camera, I know that the user (myself) is not at the same level :-))
Ciao
Ezio
Personally I use center weight most of the time, for general purpose and it works well.

Spot mode ignores too much of the scene in my opinion to use regularly, in those cases where I need something special I just switch to manual and control the exposure myself.

The article has a couple of examples that describe what happens with each mode, you can decide which works best for you.
10-03-2013, 09:24 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by crewl1 Quote
Personally I use center weight most of the time, for general purpose and it works well.

Spot mode ignores too much of the scene in my opinion to use regularly, in those cases where I need something special I just switch to manual and control the exposure myself.

The article has a couple of examples that describe what happens with each mode, you can decide which works best for you.
So, I bought a supertechnological camera to return to 1975 (I am joking :-) ). It is nice for me. At that time with the Rolleiflrx 35SL a check the exposure at several zones and than selected a medium or an adequate value. Pratically a made the job of the center weight.
Thanks.
10-03-2013, 09:41 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ezio49 Quote
Terry,
I charged and tested Paint.Net. It is very is to correct luminance and contrast. A doubt: why I charged a 7Mbite image and it stores in 4,5Mbite?
Thanks
At the very end when it exports and you can change the file name, there's a slider for image quality. I think it defaults to 80% but you can adjust. Also, when you adjust an image it can change size based on density etc. I don't really understand but lighter images tend to be smaller files...

Check out Curves - if that's where you found the luminescence - I like that feature because you can bump the low and reduce high etc. as long as it's not too much adjustment it works very well. If you have to do anything major, I don't think Paint.net will suffice. It does have some pretty fun little effects, though, like the painting effect.
10-03-2013, 11:03 AM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ezio49 Quote
So, I bought a supertechnological camera to return to 1975 (I am joking :-) ).
HA HA! Yes! It was a good year...

10-03-2013, 12:45 PM   #39
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Buon Giorno Ezio,
I definitely second the Lightroom 4 (disc) which can be upgraded to 4.4 and is easy to learn with tutorials everywhere. You can work magic with LR and RAW. The slider adjustments (for me) are reasonably precise and easy to dial in and lens corrections can be very helpful. The histogram will certainly help but my new red reference was on display near city hall in Treviso a few weeks ago......... Ferrari 512M Red. It's a great contrast reminder. Enjoy the K-5, it's extremely versatile.

Last edited by lukulele; 09-02-2014 at 04:07 PM.
10-03-2013, 03:25 PM   #40
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Lukulele, sei italiano?
Ezio
10-03-2013, 04:13 PM   #41
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Crewl1, my K5 has the following position for autofocus AUTO - SEL - Center.
What corresponds to your Centerweight? Is it the SEL? In my manual it seems that you have the possibility to select 11 focus points. In your article it seems that it generates an elictical zone. Can you explain me, please.
Thanks.
10-03-2013, 05:37 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ezio49 Quote
Lukulele, sei italiano?
Ezio
I'm sorry to say very little, primarily pro ciclismo related terminology from a career with the major Italian bike importer and manufacturer here in America during the eighties and early nineties. Pinarello, Derosa, Grandis, Eddy Merckx, Campagnolo, Nisi, Diadora, etc. We were fortunate to visit your lovely country last month primarily FVG and Sudtirol. Terry, Larry and the forum members are terrific folks, as you have already seen, for guiding you with their many years of experience.
10-05-2013, 10:46 AM   #43
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10-06-2013, 07:46 AM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ezio49 Quote
Crewl1, my K5 has the following position for autofocus AUTO - SEL - Center.
What corresponds to your Centerweight? Is it the SEL? In my manual it seems that you have the possibility to select 11 focus points. In your article it seems that it generates an elictical zone. Can you explain me, please.
Thanks.
We were discussing the exposure metering not AF.
It is the three position switch surrounding the top dial on the left side.
10-07-2013, 08:49 AM   #45
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Crewl1,
in the fron ot the camera, LH side when you have the camera in hand, there is a 3 position switch: AF.s , C, MF. Are you talking about it?
I was changing the position of the switch located at camera bach, RH side, marked AUTO , SEL , [].
Consider taht I am FULLY IGNORANT, please, explain.
Sorry for boring you.
Thanks.
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