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06-23-2014, 06:15 AM   #1
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K5iis Advice

Greetings,

My first new DSLR in over 10 years is on the way from Adorama. A K5iis with little flash, bag, and software bundle. I was sorely tempted by the K3 grip and pro-flash bundle, but decided I just couldn't swing it financially. I think K5iis will be a great upgrade though. I purchased a Pentax-A 35-105mm f3.5 to start with. I have a Tamron SP 90mm f2.5 and Tamron SP 300mm f2.8 already with my other system.

The camera will be here in a couple of days. Can you point me to helpful threads for setup and tips with the K5iis? I'm specifically looking for how A mount lenses function and if you have to set focal length values for SR. Search hasn't turned up anything really helpful there. Also, I usually shoot RAW with my Olympus equip. and process in LR5. Should I shoot Pentax RAW or DNG and what other settings are recommended?

Many thanks. I've looked at the entire "Enough with Reviews: Just Pictures..." thread and it's excellent.

Best,
Seth

06-23-2014, 06:38 AM   #2
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I love my k5iis.

I have it set to make .dngs because it saves me the time of converting .pefs to .dng.

As far as I've seen, the camera will ask you for the focal length of any lens that it can't automatically get the information from if SR is set to on.

Probably a cavalcade of people will post with their favourite settings. Try them out if they sound interesting. There are some, like turning off SR when shooting on a tripod, that are requirements for the camera to work correctly. Others are personal preference or a result of idiosyncratic shooting styles. TaV mode is really pretty neat. It's basically "auto-ISO". Pentax SR takes a moment to "spin up" for lack of a better way to put it. It takes some finesse and practice to really master it. Same with the auto-focus. It's actually pretty ok but it will take some figuring out to get the best results. My k5iis will focus in nearly complete darkness when I have a Pentax lens mounted. It does less amazingly with other brands of lenses although it's still very impressive.
06-23-2014, 07:37 AM   #3
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See this link for manual and M42 lenses.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/54-pentax-lens-articles/110657-how-use-me...k-x-k-7-a.html

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-pentax-beginners-corner-q/110658-using...x-dslrs-f.html
06-23-2014, 04:27 PM   #4
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Thannks Homo. Good feedback. From a little reading, it appears that in the recent Pentax bodies DNG and PEF is about the same size (DNG used to be larger by about 20% in some older cameras). It also appears that the advantage is that DNG has metadata in the files that software can interpret without an update to support new camera models. So the K3ii comes out and all software will read the DNG right off but PEF support will come later. Of course you can convert PEF to DNG, but not the other way around.

Felix, I'm looking for A lens use instructions. The M, K, and M42 lenses adaptions is easier to find explanations on. I've kind of picked up that a Pentax-A lens can be set to A on the aperture ring and then the Aperture can be controlled with the camera dials like a modern AF Pentax lens. But will SR recognize an A lens and if it asks for a focal length, what do I put for a 35-105mm f3.5? And will I have to use the green button for taking a light reading (there's a good youtube video to show how to set this up in the menu systems for M lenses).

Best,
Seth

06-24-2014, 12:20 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by wallygoots Quote
I have a Tamron SP 90mm f2.5 and Tamron SP 300mm f2.8 already with my other system.
I just want to make you aware that on my K-5II the Tamron SP 90mm f2.5 (52BB) has the famous blue spot. Starting from f5.6...
06-24-2014, 03:21 AM   #6
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I was not aware of the famous blue spot with the 52B. (and 52BB I take it). I haven't had the problem with the lens on 4/3rds, but just looked it up and some see a blue spot at f8 or f11. Is it a Pentax specific issue?

I want an AF Tamron 90mm 272E which was never made for 4/3rds, so this may be a good excuse to upgrade. The Tamron 52B still sells for a reasonable price.
06-24-2014, 03:37 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by wallygoots Quote
Felix, I'm looking for A lens use instructions. The M, K, and M42 lenses adaptions is easier to find explanations on. I've kind of picked up that a Pentax-A lens can be set to A on the aperture ring and then the Aperture can be controlled with the camera dials like a modern AF Pentax lens. But will SR recognize an A lens and if it asks for a focal length, what do I put for a 35-105mm f3.5? And will I have to use the green button for taking a light reading (there's a good youtube video to show how to set this up in the menu systems for M lenses).

Best,
Seth
For A lenses, set your lens to A on the aperture ring. Make sure to set Menu C4 Set Aperture Ring to "Permitted". You are ready to shoot.

You can now control the A lens from the body as it will ready your lens aperture and you can also change the aperture by flicking the scroll switch.

For a zoom, selet a moderate range so that the SR can recognise the lens. No need for green button use.

When you put the A lens on the camera. It is in "OFF" position. Switch it on and select your lens type e.g. 50mm. SR will recognise the lens.
06-24-2014, 05:48 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by wallygoots Quote
Is it a Pentax specific issue?
I don't think so as it is the flat rear element which reflects back and causing the blue/purple spot in the center of the image however on m4/3 I never had an issue with it. Maybe DX and FX issue only...

QuoteOriginally posted by wallygoots Quote
I want an AF Tamron 90mm 272E which was never made for 4/3rds, so this may be a good excuse to upgrade
Me too or to exchange/sale 52BB for Tokina 90mm f2.5 AT-X Macro... I am just not sure if Tamron 272E does have some issues as well with blue/purple spot.

06-24-2014, 05:53 AM   #9
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In the case of variable zoom lenses usually either set the focal length to the max distance or if you know what MM you will be using set it for that.

A few tips; I almost exclusively shoot using DNG raw so I don't change any settings pertaining to Jpeg photos. Of course some of this won't apply when using manual lenses.

1. Since the k5 lls has dof preview dial with the shutter button, I like using it for Digital Preview -changing in record -5 Preview dial.
2. If your going to use Auto Select Focus, set it to 5 as it uses center priority. I prefer keeping it on SEL and selecting my own.
3. Turn off dynamic range settings.
4. In playback menu set your Quick Zoom to your preference...I keep mine set to X8. Works great for checking photo detail.
5. Tools menu 4 - dust removal- check box for on start up
6. C1-1 I like to use 1/3 EV steps. I also set C1-2 sensitivity to match.
7. C1-3 Set the Expanded sensitivity to ON.
8. Change your ISO Auto setting to 80 - however high you want.( need to do 7. first)
9. C2-8 Set your Auto Bracketing sequence. I use the 5 images selection.
10. C2-9 Turn On one touch bracketing.
11. I like using Live View zoom to focus when using manual lenses
12. Display customization color. In another thread someone suggested using Red for the display and I find it works the best for overall situations from daylight to night shooting. See page 259 of the manual to change.
13. This one is a bit tough to get used to. Since the K5 has an AF button on the back I use it for all of my auto focusing instead of the shutter. This is done under Button customization By changing the Half Press option to Off and/or through the AF Button selection, setting it to cancel. I also shut off the remote auto focus capability. This video explains it better than I could.

Last edited by Oldbayrunner; 06-24-2014 at 06:24 AM.
06-24-2014, 11:04 AM   #10
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Very helpful settings info Oldbayrunner. I looked up quite a few terms in your list to see what they do and agree with most of your settings preferences. The camera is "out for delivery" so I'm waiting on a truck.

---------- Post added 06-24-14 at 02:15 PM ----------

Also, I was reading your suggestion for back button Af and I was like "yeah... no" but that video makes a really strong case for back button Af. I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks for the tip!
06-26-2014, 03:50 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by wallygoots Quote
Greetings,

My first new DSLR in over 10 years is on the way from Adorama. A K5iis with little flash, bag, and software bundle. .....
I just received mine...they forgot to include the bag,flash and software, hope you have better luck !
The pictures so far are marvellous, clearly sharper than my K-5.
Funnily enough, I have the lovely tamron 90/2.5 SP mounted now. No purple disc at all.
I did see it with my old 300/5.6 tho
Made the right choice getting it over the K-3
Pete

Last edited by Transit; 06-26-2014 at 03:59 AM.
06-26-2014, 05:22 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Transit Quote
I just received mine...they forgot to include the bag,flash and software, hope you have better luck !
The pictures so far are marvellous, clearly sharper than my K-5.
Funnily enough, I have the lovely tamron 90/2.5 SP mounted now. No purple disc at all.
I did see it with my old 300/5.6 tho
Made the right choice getting it over the K-3
Pete
Don't worry... You will see the famous spot. Close the lens to f8 - f11 on sunny day and point to some shiny surface, like glass or anything and you will see it.
06-26-2014, 01:15 PM   #13
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Hey Pete,
My flash, software, and bag came in with the camera. I hope Adorama makes it right for you. The flash is rather bulky for not having a tilt head, but I'm sure it will work well for a freebee. I haven't had a chance to take too many shots as we are packing for a move, but the few I've done so far are very promising. Currently I only have the Pentax-A 35-105mm. It's a very heavy chunk of metal and glass but does quite well. I think it's worth picking up--mine was $81. I have the SP 90mm f2.5 and SP 300mm f2.8 but don't have an adaptall-2 mount for PK/A yet. Will add that shortly. Probably a Pentax-M 50mm f1.4 or f1.7 too. I'd love to get the Sigma 17-70mm Art lens or Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 someday as well as an ultra wide like the Sigma 10-20mm, and for telephoto the DA* 300mm f4. My dream lenses may be the 400mm f2.8 and 600mm f5.6 (or the 560mm, but that's really expensive!) But these are dreams more than reality for my stage in life.
Best, Seth
06-26-2014, 05:01 PM   #14
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Good stuff Seth
Adorama are looking into it
One wee point, consider the sigma 8-16 over the 10-20
cheers
Pete

QuoteOriginally posted by wallygoots Quote
Hey Pete,
My flash, software, and bag came in with the camera. I hope Adorama makes it right for you. The flash is rather bulky for not having a tilt head, but I'm sure it will work well for a freebee. I haven't had a chance to take too many shots as we are packing for a move, but the few I've done so far are very promising. Currently I only have the Pentax-A 35-105mm. It's a very heavy chunk of metal and glass but does quite well. I think it's worth picking up--mine was $81. I have the SP 90mm f2.5 and SP 300mm f2.8 but don't have an adaptall-2 mount for PK/A yet. Will add that shortly. Probably a Pentax-M 50mm f1.4 or f1.7 too. I'd love to get the Sigma 17-70mm Art lens or Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 someday as well as an ultra wide like the Sigma 10-20mm, and for telephoto the DA* 300mm f4. My dream lenses may be the 400mm f2.8 and 600mm f5.6 (or the 560mm, but that's really expensive!) But these are dreams more than reality for my stage in life.
Best, Seth


---------- Post added 06-27-14 at 12:04 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by RAART Quote
Don't worry... You will see the famous spot. Close the lens to f8 - f11 on sunny day and point to some shiny surface, like glass or anything and you will see it.
Will try but suspect i have a freak lens that defies physical limitations
06-27-2014, 12:32 PM   #15
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I tried a couple JPG settings but went back to neutral. I found the increased vibrance etc. was just too punchy - I want it more natural.

Mostly I shoot in RAW now anyway, though I'll sometimes do RAW+ because my wife will frequently post images I don't.

Set up a Fast Shot user mode, where you turn off all the in-camera processing, lens corrections etc. and default to continuous mode, high. Then use AF.C and center focus to get the most out of following action.
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