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08-22-2015, 09:14 AM   #1
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K5iis preview vs RAW files

I know my RAW files will not look like the previews the camera generates, but the thing that keeps biting me in the ass is that the preview looks decently exposed but when the RAW file comes into Lightroom, it's typically underexposed more then I'd like. Just wondering how others have their camera's setup (profiles I guess) and if they find things match for the most part.

08-22-2015, 09:34 AM   #2
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I use natural setting and add +EV until I just start to get blinkies in white areas such as white clouds.
Seems to get the RAWs to come fairly close.
08-22-2015, 09:40 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by eccs19 Quote
I know my RAW files will not look like the previews the camera generates, but the thing that keeps biting me in the ass is that the preview looks decently exposed but when the RAW file comes into Lightroom, it's typically underexposed more then I'd like. Just wondering how others have their camera's setup (profiles I guess) and if they find things match for the most part.
I use the image histogram to check exposure. From this morning Colors of August .
08-22-2015, 11:48 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Brooke Meyer Quote
I use the image histogram to check exposure. From this morning Colors of August .
Histogram would work fine if the in camera preview matched the RAW, but it doesn't, so the histogram is based on the preview which in my case is not accurate.

---------- Post added 08-22-2015 at 02:49 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by jatrax Quote
I use natural setting and add +EV until I just start to get blinkies in white areas such as white clouds.
Seems to get the RAWs to come fairly close.
Stupid question, but how do you actually get into settings to change that. I've looked in the menu, but not seen it. I'm obviously looking in the wrong spot.

08-22-2015, 12:00 PM   #5
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What you're looking at is your lightroom settings not the raw file as such. You can't view a raw file, its always translated.

One way to get better previews/blinkies might be to use a jpg setting with minimum contrast and reduced saturation? As contrasty saturated settings tend to blow highlights before the raw.
08-22-2015, 04:11 PM - 1 Like   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by eccs19 Quote
Histogram would work fine if the in camera preview matched the RAW, but it doesn't, so the histogram is based on the preview which in my case is not accurate.

---------- Post added 08-22-2015 at 02:49 PM ----------


You're right, the histogram of the JPEG preview which is extracted from the DNG I record is not an exact representation. I've never shot JPEGS so all that is left at camera defaults. All I care about when I open a DNG in camera raw is a fairly accurate exposure. The camera histogram gives me that. I don't use camera meters, just Sunny 16 as an anchor and adjust with the camera histogram. My customers are happy with the result.
.
08-22-2015, 04:46 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by eccs19 Quote
Stupid question, but how do you actually get into settings to change that. I've looked in the menu, but not seen it. I'm obviously looking in the wrong spot.
It's one of the buttons on the 4-way controller, the one to the right of the "OK" button. This brings up the "Custom Image" settings.

I also have mine set to Neutral and the settings all to zero. Take some time to compare how the in-camera histograms compare to the histogram of the raw files in your converter (under whatever default settings you usually start with). You should eventually get pretty used to how to relate the two.

If you're consistently getting underexposed images, you might also want to review how you're metering your shots.
08-22-2015, 05:27 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by BrianR Quote
It's one of the buttons on the 4-way controller, the one to the right of the "OK" button. This brings up the "Custom Image" settings.

I also have mine set to Neutral and the settings all to zero. Take some time to compare how the in-camera histograms compare to the histogram of the raw files in your converter (under whatever default settings you usually start with). You should eventually get pretty used to how to relate the two.

If you're consistently getting underexposed images, you might also want to review how you're metering your shots.
Thanks, that's the info I was looking for. The problem is more that the exposure does look good on the camera & histogram, just not once I bring it into LR. (set to not apply anything by default) I admit I always underexpose, as that's the look I like, but when it's under exposed more then expected, that's what always throws me off. When I'm working with flashes, I use a light meter and setup based on what it tells me, but in the camera it always looks too bright, but when I bring it into the computer, it's what I'm expecting, so I know the preview isn't correct / too my liking.

08-22-2015, 06:50 PM   #9
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That's what I meant by relating the cameras histogram to a "good exposure"- you know you're happy with it when the back of the camera shows it as "too bright". Figure out how bright is "just right" for your tastes and aim for that on the back of the camera. Changing your jpeg settings might get you closer to your raw converter's defaults, so that's maybe worth a try if you're having trouble relating the histograms.

You could also use your light meter for ambient light exposures.
08-22-2015, 07:13 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by eccs19 Quote
I know my RAW files will not look like the previews the camera generates, but the thing that keeps biting me in the ass is that the preview looks decently exposed
Yep, don't trust it or the camera's histogram - they're limited to the 8 bits of the JPEG's dynamic range, even when shooting RAW.

Your computer knows better. :-)
08-22-2015, 07:16 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by BrianR Quote
That's what I meant by relating the cameras histogram to a "good exposure"- you know you're happy with it when the back of the camera shows it as "too bright". Figure out how bright is "just right" for your tastes and aim for that on the back of the camera. Changing your jpeg settings might get you closer to your raw converter's defaults, so that's maybe worth a try if you're having trouble relating the histograms.

You could also use your light meter for ambient light exposures.
Yep, an incident light meter is wonderful tool. Until I got used to guesstimating baseline exposure, I relied on a little DigiSix. Still carry it in my pocket with a grey card, left on ISO 100 which gives an EV.
I adjust from the histogram based in EV15 aka Sunny 16. Any incident light meter will do. Also use a Gossen LunaStar F2 for flash. Not as easy to carry but it does speed up studio setups.
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