[max_pyne]

hm maybe you need to calibrate the focus point in addition, its for most lens / camera combinations required. and is is quite easy for a prime lens and more important if you want to use small F numbers.
have you experienced on a regular basis that your focus is in front or behind your subject / object? Can be different per lens...
a quide how to do the calibration can be found here: Front- and Back-Focus - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com
or https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/38-photographic-technique/216496-anybody-...inetuning.html

[kh1234567890]

I have a K-5II BECAUSE I wanted better low light performance. I hope I'm not misguided but I'd say 95% of the NON-point-and-shooters out there use centre-focus only. Frame your shot, point the centre reticle at the desired spot, lock the focus, repoint to the desired framing, done! This is fast and accurate, focusing where YOU want and it only takes a fraction of a second. And as mentioned, a fast wide lens will have more in focus.

But be careful to keep SR lock while you reframe. I am one of those 95%

[UncleVanya]

Loads of good advice.

Another question, what lenses and cameras are these other photographers using? You mention fast lenses - fast zooms are expensive potentially. What is your budget?

Pentax has fast lens options available, the DA* 16-50 f2.8 comes to mind. The Sigma and Tamron 17-50's also seem appropriate. The Sigma 18-35 f1.8 is another sharp fast lens but it has had auto focus issues that make it difficult to recommend. What ISO are you using?

With respect to front and rear focus, the wider open the lens is, the easier this is to see. In good light stopped down you might not notice it at all.

Truthfully the cheapest option is less flexible. Get a DA 35 f2.4 and/or a DA 50 f1.8 and try some events with the fast prime to see if lens speed is going to help. These are each avaiable for a fraction of the cost of a fast zoom.

[Simen1]

Focusing in low light can be a challenge with any camera. I have the older (and worse) K-5 and usually get around the focusing issues. Here is my technique:

- First judge the distance to where I want to photograph. Then point the camera at a bright contrasty object at the same distance
- Focus at that point, reframe and shoot. Sometimes I switch to manual focus when I have the focus right and want to take several images.

This tricks the AF sensor to focus when the light is sufficient and avoids focus hunting. Just don't touch the focus ring when the focus is right.

[Mash4077]

Thanks again all.


I have been looking at the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 and it looks a phenomenal bit of kit for very reasonable money (currently £280). In terms of budget it is a case of if saving is required to get what I need then that is what will need to happen. I can reasonably afford the 17-50mm f2.8 so will investigate further, SRS have them in stock and also have the 17-70mm f2.8/f4 at £310 which they highly recommend with it being a new design and new optics. The question is will f4 be sufficient etc so will need to research a little more.

[Wild Mark]

Sigma 17-50mm f2.8

Very good lens and Pentx forum staff 'review' put it on top of the heap for comparative lenses

DA* 16-50mm vs. Sigma and Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 Comparison Review - Introduction | PentaxForums.com Reviews

[Oldbayrunner]

“gbeaton” has hit the nail on the head forone problem that I have is that on most of them I was framing the picture andmoving the focus point. (slapped wrist taken – thanks) So this leads me onto the question of how doI lock the focus as not saying that is the answer to my problems but wouldcertainly help no end.
In terms of Prime or Zoom for these events, the Zoom wouldbe the answer as it would be by far the most versatile and give the option ofmore shots.

I find there are times to frame and move, then there are times when that is not a good practice, especially when dealing with wide apertures with an extremely narrow depth of field where the slightest movement can cause an object to be oof. Each has it's purpose it is up to one to select which is best for the situation. I never use AFA, I rarely use AF-S and I'm a big fan of AF- C and using the back button for focus. Why, because I can track movement on the fly by keeping the button depressed and lock focus simply by taking my thumb off the button. I get a lot less refocus situations encountered at times when using the shutter button for focus.

[Rupert]

Until I broke it, my K5IIs was the best Pentax I have ever owned. Just loved it!
However...I can relate to your AF complaint. I found that using the back button for AF greatly improved my AF speed and accuracy. How, I don't know, but it made a real and significant difference.

If you want the ultimate Pentax get the K1. I'll repeat this, though I have posted it all over the place..it is worth posting again.

I have been shooting Bigma 50-500s for almost 10 years...from the K10D forward on the flagship bodies. The Bigma is a big ol' slow lens and very hard to focus in low light. In fact, it hunts like a blind hound. The K5IIs was the best body so far, but still missed many shots due to slow to lock focus...or complete failure to lock.

So I ordered the K1 to replace my broken K5IIs......hoping for some improvement in AF and the long list of other outstanding features it offers...like superb high ISO results.
First lens to go on it was the Bigma. WOW! I couldn't believe it! Had to look again at the "Pentax" on the front! It is amazing...fast and accurate like no other Pentax before it! No hunting, no waiting, it locks and you fire and you have your shot...low light or not it gets 'er done...and fast!
The biggest difference for me is not better IQ, the K5IIs is excellent, it is the fast AF and that high ISO ability!

Now.....with a fast lens like my new Tamron 70-200 2.8, the focus speed is downright scary for an old guy! Makes my head spin!

The K5IIs will work fine for you with fast glass....it did for me..try that back button. But if you want a real thrill...get the K1!


It was just turning dark...around 8:30 pm. I saw her at the squirrel feeder out my office windows. Picked up the K1+Bigma.....locked focus instantly...fired.....there's that thrill again!

1/80 handheld (New SR is fantastic!) f7.1 @ 240mm ISO 12,800...no noise reduction!


Don't sell the K5IIs short......here is one from my broken K5IIs shot MF about the same time of day.

1/60 handheld (Great SR too!) f6.3 @ 200mm ISO 6400


Best Regards! Pentax has your needs......you have to do the rest!
Rupert

[Mash4077]

Hi

I currently have a K5-IIs with various lenses (18-55, 55-300, 35, 50, 10-20, 150-500).

Paul

Hi


Apologies, having a thick moment it is not the 18-55 that I have it is the 18-135. I was thinking of my fathers lens.


Paul

---------- Post added 05-31-16 at 07:08 AM ----------

Until I broke it, my K5IIs was the best Pentax I have ever owned. Just loved it!
However...I can relate to your AF complaint. I found that using the back button for AF greatly improved my AF speed and accuracy. How, I don't know, but it made a real and significant difference.

If you want the ultimate Pentax get the K1. I'll repeat this, though I have posted it all over the place..it is worth posting again.

I have been shooting Bigma 50-500s for almost 10 years...from the K10D forward on the flagship bodies. The Bigma is a big ol' slow lens and very hard to focus in low light. In fact, it hunts like a blind hound. The K5IIs was the best body so far, but still missed many shots due to slow to lock focus...or complete failure to lock.

So I ordered the K1 to replace my broken K5IIs......hoping for some improvement in AF and the long list of other outstanding features it offers...like superb high ISO results.
First lens to go on it was the Bigma. WOW! I couldn't believe it! Had to look again at the "Pentax" on the front! It is amazing...fast and accurate like no other Pentax before it! No hunting, no waiting, it locks and you fire and you have your shot...low light or not it gets 'er done...and fast!
The biggest difference for me is not better IQ, the K5IIs is excellent, it is the fast AF and that high ISO ability!

Now.....with a fast lens like my new Tamron 70-200 2.8, the focus speed is downright scary for an old guy! Makes my head spin!

The K5IIs will work fine for you with fast glass....it did for me..try that back button. But if you want a real thrill...get the K1!


It was just turning dark...around 8:30 pm. I saw her at the squirrel feeder out my office windows. Picked up the K1+Bigma.....locked focus instantly...fired.....there's that thrill again!

1/80 handheld (New SR is fantastic!) f7.1 @ 240mm ISO 12,800...no noise reduction!


Don't sell the K5IIs short......here is one from my broken K5IIs shot MF about the same time of day.

1/60 handheld (Great SR too!) f6.3 @ 200mm ISO 6400


Best Regards! Pentax has your needs......you have to do the rest!
Rupert

That shot with the K1 is head spinning for such high ISO. Sadly the £1500 price tag is well out of my reach at the moment, and I think that regardless I need to be looking at a fast lens first otherwise it will be pointless. Certainly all the lens I have bar the 150-500 would still end up running in crop mode on the K1 but then the better sensor and processor etc would make a difference but at £1500 it is not possible at the moment to justify it.

[UncleVanya]

I have never used the 17-70 or the 17-50. However the 17-70 while a good lens slows down pretty fast. Someone should be able to find the f/stop vs focal length chart to clarify this. If you are having trouble with the 18-55 wide open at 18mm then the 17-70 is likely too slow (just a guess). One stop isn't a ton but it could be the difference needed to go from meh to wow.

The 17-50 has a narrower range similar to your 18-55. Does that lens frame what you need ok? The 17-70 is a fantastic walk around lens by all accounts. But the 17-50 seems a better choice for what you have described. However not an expert - hopefully someone with direct experience with these lenses head to head can add some comments.

[Rupert]

That shot with the K1 is head spinning for such high ISO. Sadly the £1500 price tag is well out of my reach at the moment, and I think that regardless I need to be looking at a fast lens first otherwise it will be pointless. Certainly all the lens I have bar the 150-500 would still end up running in crop mode on the K1 but then the better sensor and processor etc would make a difference but at £1500 it is not possible at the moment to justify it.

Fast glass....you did get the message. There is nothing wrong with your K5IIs that can't be remedied with some fast glass. The K1 is excellent in Crop Mode...that's mostly how I shoot the Bigma. You don't need the K1, but it is nice to know it is there when you are ready.

I detected a bit of "peer pressure" from those Canon and Nikon guys. Your IQ can certainly beat theirs with the right glass, but you can never convince them of it...and it's not worth the effort. Let them spend more and get less......they deserve it!

Regards!

[VoiceOfReason]

Grab a Tamron or Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 and a Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 and you will be good to go. Also, try the back button focus technique and do it on center point focus.

[leekil]

Getting only part of the bus in focus might also be a depth-of-field issue, not just a misfocus. Maybe they are using a higher ISO than you are? I typically would use auto-ISO up to 3200 ISO on a K-5, and 6400 if I really needed it.

Lee

[Mash4077]

Continued thanks for all the help and feedback, as mentioned earlier I have picked out five images that I believe to be failures for one reason or several.

These are all still in DNG format and are straight out of the camera so file size accordingly.

01 - Pentax-DA 35mm f2.4 @ ISO 3200, 1/60 sec
02 - Pentax-DA 50mm f1.8 @ ISO 3200, 1/80 sec
03 - Pentax-DA 35mm f2.4 @ ISO 3200, 1/80 sec
04 - Pentax-DA 50mm f1.8 @ ISO 3200, 1/100 sec
05 - Pentax-DA 35mm f2.4 @ ISO 400, 1/20 sec (Tripod)

The first four I believe have considerable noise in them.

Any and all feedback gratefully received, I am happy and expecting criticism but if you can give pointers that would be great as these are the type of shoots I enjoy and have another bus one lined up for September which I will be using a tripod for next time.

[VoiceOfReason]

On the K5 I would never take mine above ISO 1600 because noise.