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05-18-2019, 04:59 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by pepperberry farm Quote
Good morning, Tez

Since there's no selling/buying in the regular forums, please place a 'Wanted' post in this forum:

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suggestions, comparisons, opinions, experience on lenses is awesome, but keep the offers, etc.. in the appropriate forums....
I didn't see anything about buying or selling in the post by Tez...the OP was merely asking what options were available on the market.

05-18-2019, 05:01 AM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tez26 Quote
Does anybody know if you can get an 85mm lens for the K5? I have noticed on the Pentax website there is a 70mm lens - would this be comparable to an 85mm? I am into kid/portrait photography and looking for a lens where I can capture more Nat/playing shots without being right in their face. Any other suggestions/recommendations on other lenses for this also greatly appreciated.

Thanks
I have the ZEISS Planar 85mm F1.4 T* ZK...it is a wonderful manual-focus lens. I highly recommend it. It will not only work on the APS-C cameras such as the Pentax K-5...but works on the full-frame Pentax K-1 Mk II as well.
05-18-2019, 05:01 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by pseudobreccia Quote
I didn't see anything about buying or selling in the post by Tez...the OP was merely asking what options were available on the market.
agreed - see post #12...
05-18-2019, 06:11 AM - 2 Likes   #19
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You already have a 70mm lens....so I'm assuming it's too short. I'm a fairly heavy zoom user, and a zoom that covers the range you are talking about is always on my camera. Either the 55-300, the DA* 60-250, or the DA 18-135. Yet I have very few images that cover the 77-85 range. Any way you can check what you actually shoot?
I have to throw my 2 cents behind the 50-135. But I'm not prime fussy. I own them, but I value convenience and the ability to frame tight, to make maximum use of the sensor with as little need as possible for cropping. Primes put you at serious disadvantage in fluid situations. While a prime might be optimized as a studio portrait lens, by building the studio for that portrait length. The type of shooting you are doing, capturing kids at play, is not what a traditional portrait lens is designed to do. Many of us wouldn't even call that a portrait, but probably would call it a candid image.

The above opinion has in the past been challenged rather vehemently (by those with no in studio training with portrait lenses) , and I really don't wish to argue the point... but, there's kernel of truth there that you might want to consider.

If you're capturing kids at play out doors you might even want to consider the 55-300 PLM. If it's subject isolation the you're after then the DA*55... but I find shooting my granddaughters even a 35mm lens might be a little too long when shooting indoors.

05-18-2019, 06:49 AM - 2 Likes   #20
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I can see the rationale behind a zoom lens, but an 85mm prime is a very different animal. Even an f/2.8 zoom just cannot match an 85/1.4 for bokeh, soft backgrounds and shallow DOF goodness. Then there is portability. An 85/1.4 is kinda plump but a 50-135/2.8 is downright obese in comparison.
05-18-2019, 07:37 AM - 1 Like   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wasp Quote
I can see the rationale behind a zoom lens, but an 85mm prime is a very different animal. Even an f/2.8 zoom just cannot match an 85/1.4 for bokeh, soft backgrounds and shallow DOF goodness. Then there is portability. An 85/1.4 is kinda plump but a 50-135/2.8 is downright obese in comparison.
Shallow DoF is good for controlled circumstances, when you have the ability to sit and fuss with stuff. Not so good for candids of playing children. Even in film days we used to "chimp" in the studio for shallow DoF. We'd ask the model to sit tight while we charged into the darkroom to proof the neg, and make sure we had the focus plane where we wanted it. The best set up is a chair with all your props arranged, so the subject just sits on the stool and everything is pre-arranged so nothing moves. The camera is in the same place, the stool is in the same place, the props are in the same place. You know exactly what you're getting.

A 1.4 lens is only worth it if you are willing to do the work and are in a situation where you have the time to do the work. Cross off either of those two and you are probably wasting your money. For one person a 1.4 lens is wonderful thing. If you have two playing and you want them both in focus, then ƒ8 is a wonderful thing. Once you start having to try and mentally map out where that focal plane is, you're in trouble, and when your D0F is 8 inches wide, you just can't do that accurately on the fly. You have to ask your subjects to freeze. If you're shooting candids, it's just not practical.

Not saying he wouldn't prefer the 1.4 prime, any 1.4 prime, just saying it's not a given.

QuoteOriginally posted by Tez26 Quote
I am into kid/portrait photography and looking for a lens where I can capture more Nat/playing shots without being right in their face.
He's not talking about a formal portrait lens. His description is more like talking action shots. And for action 2.8 is adequate. For not being right in their faces, something like a 200mm 2.8 or a 70-200 2.8 could be the ticket. You also have to remember, something like the 2.8 on the 100 is very much like the ƒ2 on my DA*55 1.4 that I usually use when I want smooth bokeh.

There's a lot of folks out there think buying a 1.4 lens is all they need to take "portraits". And a lot of folks who think any image with a person in them is a portrait. It's unfortunate. It makes communication on this type of issue complicated.

Last edited by normhead; 05-20-2019 at 04:59 AM.
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