Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
02-28-2012, 01:25 PM   #601
Junior Member




Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Glenrothes , Fife
Photos: Albums
Posts: 27
QuoteOriginally posted by lammie200 Quote
My 2 cents:

You might want to try a polarizing filter. It should help you bring the sky into a shot like the one that you took.
Yeah i have one for my other lens but not the one i used . I'll get one though .
Appreciate the advice

02-28-2012, 05:34 PM   #602
Senior Member




Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 267
QuoteOriginally posted by Darren Healy Quote
Had my K-r since Nov after upgrading from a bridge camera and find i'm struggling to get anything good .
I took this photo yesterday and found it loked a bit colourless so i messed with it in Elements (i know even less about Elements than photography)
I'd appreciate any advice offered
It's hard to give an accurate assessment since the Exif Data is stripped from your photograph. What I might do is to expose for the sky then frame the shot and shoot it.

*Aim at the sky line and set your exposure frame and take your photo.

I took the liberty of downloading the shot and doing about 6 minutes worth of work on it.

*Histogram adjustment
*Color cast removal and color adjustment
*Created/manufactured a sky
*Dodge and burn
*Sharpen
*Final curves adjustment.

02-28-2012, 07:51 PM   #603
Veteran Member
kaiserz's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NoVa The "burg"
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 899
That's some awesome work you did there in 6mins. Bravo
02-28-2012, 10:54 PM   #604
Junior Member




Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Glenrothes , Fife
Photos: Albums
Posts: 27
QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
That's some awesome work you did there in 6mins. Bravo
Indeed , excellent work . How do you lock the exposure before reframing ?

02-29-2012, 01:13 AM   #605
Veteran Member




Join Date: Jul 2010
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 573
Here's one I took for World Pentax Day
02-29-2012, 10:53 AM   #606
Veteran Member
kaiserz's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NoVa The "burg"
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 899
QuoteOriginally posted by Darren Healy Quote
Indeed , excellent work . How do you lock the exposure before reframing ?
I know this question was intended for geru2000 but I'm also going to try to help-out with the newbie knowledge that I have.

First of all you have to know what "exposure" means and understand how aperture, ISO and shutter speed affects your exposure. Those 3 things are called the triangle of photography, you can achieve certain effects if you know how to manipulate them. I suggest getting the book "Understanding Exposure - Bryan Peterson" if you're not familiar with that triangle.

Now back to your question. how to lock exposure before re-framing, Everybody does this differently and everyone has their own technique in doing this. But me I would do it on "M" mode, I will make sure that my metering is on "spot metering" (There are 3 kinds of metering, we have Spot metering, Center-weighed, and Segment metering, there's a brief explanation of the 3 types of metering on your "K-r Guide/Manual" but here's my take on it. Spot metering is where the camera will expose on that one little spot in the middle of your screen, Center-weighed is going to expose on a much bigger spot on the center of your screen, and segment metering is the camera will try and expose the whole scene for you) I use spot metering because I feel like that I have more control over the situation and not have my camera try and guess what I want to expose for.

Now that my camera is on "M" mode and that my metering is on "Spot" I will now make sure that my "M" mode setting is going to be like an Av mode setting where when I push the "green button" the camera will try and expose the spot the I pointed it into, but will only change the shutter speed. Here I have control over aperture and ISO and the camera only changes the shutter speed to get a proper exposure. I will set the aperture that I need to try and achieve the effect that I want and all I have to do is point where I want to meter, and use the green button, re-frame and shoot.

Some people will use Av/Tv mode with AE-L(Auto exposure lock), but I find that this approach is much better for me.

Also I know there's a lot here that might not make sense, so if you any questions, just let us know, and I'm pretty sure one of the forum members will help you out (:

Last edited by kaiserz; 02-29-2012 at 11:32 AM.
02-29-2012, 10:56 AM   #607
Senior Member




Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 267
QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
That's some awesome work you did there in 6mins. Bravo
Thanks it wasn't a very difficult image even the sky was easy.
02-29-2012, 11:24 AM   #608
Senior Member




Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 267
QuoteOriginally posted by Darren Healy Quote
Indeed , excellent work . How do you lock the exposure before reframing ?
Page 120 of the operators manual - Locking the Exposure Before Shooting (AE Lock)

QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
I know this question was intended for geru2000 but I'm also going to try to help-out with the newbie knowledge that I have.

First of all you have to know what "exposure" means and understand how aperture, ISO and shutter speed affects your exposure. Those 3 things are called the triangle of photography, you can achieve certain effects if you know how to manipulate them. I suggest getting the book "Understanding Exposure - Bryan Peterson" if you're not familiar with that triangle.

Now back to your question. how to lock exposure before re-framing, Everybody does this differently and everyone has their own technique in doing this. But me I would do it on "M" mode, I will make sure that my metering is on "spot metering" (There are 3 kinds of metering, we have Spot metering, Center-weighed, and Segment metering, there's a brief explanation of the 3 types of metering on your "K-r Guide" but here's my take on it. Spot metering is where the camera will expose on that one little spot in the middle of your screen, Center-weighed is going to expose on a much bigger spot on the center of your screen, and segment metering is the camera will try and expose the whole scene for you) I use spot metering because I feel like that I have more control over the situation and not have my camera try and guess what I want to expose for.

Now that my camera is on "M" mode and that my metering is on "Spot" I will now make sure that my "M" mode settings is going to be like an Av mode setting where when I push the "green button" the camera will try and expose the spot the I pointed it into, but will only change the shutter speed. Here I have control over aperture and ISO and the camera only changes the shutter speed to get a proper exposure. I will set the aperture that I want to achieve the effect that I want and all I have to do is point where I want to meter use the green button re-frame and shoot. I know, I know it's always what I want (:

Some people will use Av/Tv mode with AE-L(Auto exposure lock), but I find that this approach is much better for me.

Also I know there's a lot here that might not make sense, so if you any questions, just let us know, and I'm pretty sure one of the forum members will help you out (:
An excellent explanation. I'm one of those that purchased Bryan Peterson's book "UNDERSTANDING EXPOSURE". There are those that have a problem with his book but I found it very easy to read, understand and to put into practice. I purchased it in the Kindle Edition from Amazon and have it on my computer. I go back to it often for review.

Here is a great simulator for practice. It simulates all kind of situations including freezing action.

02-29-2012, 11:55 AM   #609
Junior Member




Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Glenrothes , Fife
Photos: Albums
Posts: 27
Thanks guys . I looked in the manual earlier (p120) and now have that set up .
I've read Understanding Exposure (twice) and i guess "The sky brothers" is the portion that applies to what we're talking about ?
I'd love to know how you fixed my sky if you could spare the time

Once again thanks all for the advice
02-29-2012, 05:21 PM   #610
New Member
boydapa3's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2011
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 20
First time to share my photo here. Shot using KR with Ricoh 50mm 1:2 Manual focus lens.

02-29-2012, 06:06 PM   #611
Veteran Member
kaiserz's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NoVa The "burg"
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 899
QuoteOriginally posted by Darren Healy Quote
Thanks guys . I looked in the manual earlier (p120) and now have that set up .
I've read Understanding Exposure (twice) and i guess "The sky brothers" is the portion that applies to what we're talking about ?
I'd love to know how you fixed my sky if you could spare the time

Once again thanks all for the advice

Awesome! yes in this case the sky brothers applies.
And me too I would like to know what software was used.


QuoteOriginally posted by boydapa3 Quote
First time to share my photo here. Shot using KR with Ricoh 50mm 1:2 Manual focus lens.
Looks good, I like the colors and the bokeh, (Kaso parang mejo OOF lang sya saan ka ba nka focus dito bro?)
02-29-2012, 08:08 PM   #612
New Member
boydapa3's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2011
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 20
QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
Awesome! yes in this case the sky brothers applies.
And me too I would like to know what software was used.




Looks good, I like the colors and the bokeh, (Kaso parang mejo OOF lang sya saan ka ba nka focus dito bro?)
Thanks! Is it? Hvent noticed that much details. Maybe i just need to wear glasses now. Im still practicng how to recompose on manual lens. Any tips?
02-29-2012, 08:45 PM   #613
Veteran Member
kaiserz's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NoVa The "burg"
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 899
Well, I'm not really an expert, I still consider myself new at this, but when I'm using the K-r with my manual lens and I want a really really sharp image I try to use the K-r's liveview + the info button to digitally zoom-in and then I focus and shoot. But sometimes that's not possible specially when I'm going to be shooting moving objects, if that's the case I use "Catch-in focus" I make sure that the camera's on AF.S cause if not, it's not gonna work. Also I shoot with the K-r's continuous shooting so all I have to do is push the shutter and focus on my "focusing".

Also the k-r is known to have back focus and front focus issues, That's why I make sure to calibrate my lens via "AF fine adjustments" to make sure they're spot on

Good luck (:
03-01-2012, 01:41 PM   #614
Senior Member




Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 267
QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
Awesome! yes in this case the sky brothers applies.
And me too I would like to know what software was used.
If this question is for me I used Corel Paint Shop Pro X4 Ultimate
.

I have used PS Pro for about 6 years. I also have but no longer use several version of Adobe's Photoshop Elements the latest being PSE v9 I also have Photo Shop CS2.
Elements is a good program but isn't very flexible to many one click tools and it doesn't come close to the power of PS Pro and the full version of Photoshop
to expensive and more than I need.

PSE and PS have an advantage over PS Pro in Raw development but if I need to develop RAW files I use Corel's AfterShot Pro it's similar to Adobe's Lightroom .
03-01-2012, 03:42 PM   #615
New Member
boydapa3's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2011
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 20
QuoteOriginally posted by kaiserz Quote
Well, I'm not really an expert, I still consider myself new at this, but when I'm using the K-r with my manual lens and I want a really really sharp image I try to use the K-r's liveview + the info button to digitally zoom-in and then I focus and shoot. But sometimes that's not possible specially when I'm going to be shooting moving objects, if that's the case I use "Catch-in focus" I make sure that the camera's on AF.S cause if not, it's not gonna work. Also I shoot with the K-r's continuous shooting so all I have to do is push the shutter and focus on my "focusing".

Also the k-r is known to have back focus and front focus issues, That's why I make sure to calibrate my lens via "AF fine adjustments" to make sure they're spot on

Good luck (:
Thanks Bro! not sure how will Catch-in-focus will work when recomposing specially when the subject are not centered. I'll try to practice more and will post some of my photos here to get some good feedback. Thanks again bro!
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
camera, composition, k-r, kr, pentax k-r, sand dunes
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Who can post pictures in the post your pictures category? Sitting Bull Troubleshooting and Beginner Help 3 12-14-2010 05:41 AM
two pictures zj4c Photo Critique 3 02-01-2009 04:23 AM
some old pictures wil4713 Post Your Photos! 1 12-04-2008 04:05 PM
what is going on in these pictures? throndor Photographic Technique 16 09-11-2008 03:14 PM
two pictures, what are they? Heinrich Lohmann Post Your Photos! 5 01-24-2007 02:17 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:38 PM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top