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07-08-2011, 01:14 AM   #31
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thing about faster lenses is that they're faster if you shoot at larger apertures. In your picture description, you put f/11. That means that you will get very little light as compared to shooting at a larger aperture such as f/5.6. a new lens won't help you get any more light if you shoot the lens at f/11.

07-08-2011, 02:26 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by yeatzee Quote
Of course not Well sorta....

The 18-55 as stated is a "slow" lens meaning it does not take in much light. A lens like say my K 50mm F/1.2 is light sucking beast on the other hand

To compensate for this, the ISO must be bumped up thus resulting in a "grainy" image. Faster glass exist among other reasons for more low light capabilities. Of course, the price rises with the lowering of the number accompanying "F/"

btw. Learn to shoot in M mode Personally I went with M mode immediately. I didn't want a bad picture to be the result of my camera's error but rather my own..... you get good this way
I see.

I've been using my Pentax K-r for about two weeks now, and since the second day I've been shooting in M mode Thanks for your advice though.
07-08-2011, 04:19 AM   #33
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I tried few indoor shots with KR+ SMC 55-300mm in App Prio mode with AWB settings i got few shots out of focus even though LV confirmed the focus !! any other mode i should switch to ? pl recommend some settings.
07-08-2011, 05:05 AM   #34
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Post a pic & or at least focal length and EXIF info - so many "out of focus" shots may just be camera shake because of slow shutters.

07-08-2011, 12:27 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ben E Quote
I see.

I've been using my Pentax K-r for about two weeks now, and since the second day I've been shooting in M mode Thanks for your advice though.
I was reffering to the op, who posted an image taken with landscape auto mode
07-08-2011, 02:45 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by adpo Quote
thing about faster lenses is that they're faster if you shoot at larger apertures. In your picture description, you put f/11. That means that you will get very little light as compared to shooting at a larger aperture such as f/5.6. a new lens won't help you get any more light if you shoot the lens at f/11.
Thanks. I shot in all auto. I'm learning my lesson quick about auto...
07-09-2011, 01:00 PM   #37
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i think the fast prime (the old ones are great and relatively inexpensive) and a tripod are the real solutions. Flash photography is almost never satisfactory, though there have been execellent suggestions here)
07-21-2011, 09:43 AM - 1 Like   #38
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This is a difficult scene for exposure.
Your photo is high range (amount of dark areas and bright areas in the scene). Specifically you have a large dark area against a bright background. One solution would be to use high speed sync (HSS) flash mounted on the camera's hotshoe. This becomes money as you need to buy a Pentax flash. HSS flash has very limited range (act like fill lighting in this scene). However it allows you to go faster than the 1/180 flash shutter speed of the camera if you want the background blurry (large aperture). Without using some kind of flash set-up though I can't think how you could expose this photo without clipping the bright areas or bunching up the dark. Camera Raw (software) would allow you to recover some of the blown highlights.
Flash is a hassle however when you don't have time to set up (off camera wireless flash with soft boxes).
As others have mentioned, if there are not people moving in the background of the photo, bracketed exposure (3-5 photos) is an option. Again you need software to merge the photos into one picture.
Looking at the EXIF data your camera is using center weight metering. The camera used an ISO of 200, f11 and shutter of 1/50. The joys of automatic :0) As you learn more about your camera you can begin to judge your own settings. This is a situation where you can take time to plan your photo.
For example, I would decide what is my key tone; the bright area or the dark area. Assuming it is the dark area, I can make some adjustments. The camera auto setting only makes settings based upon what reaches the sensor. But in manual I decide if I want the background sharp or blurry (aperture), if I want to stop action - for example people walking in the background (shutter speed) and the sensitivity to the amount of light reaching the sensor (ISO setting). In this situation my personal choice would be to use manual setting, auto-focus single, matrix meter, blur the background to the best this lens will allow (f4.5 ?), ISO about 400-600 and shutter at about 1/120 if using a focal length of 24mm. Check the histogram of the photo in the camera screen and make adjustments and retake the photo. Then use software later to process further.


Last edited by tibersun; 07-21-2011 at 03:09 PM.
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