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12-28-2011, 10:14 AM   #16
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If you download either the Pentax Camera Utility that came with the camera (It did with mine at least) or Picasa, you can see the settings you used to take the picture with. When you select an image in the Camera Utility or on Picasa there's a window that shows what shutter speed, ISO, aperture, etc. It helps quite a bit when remembering how you created a certain shot and knowing how to replicate it!

From my (limited) experience with my K-r, I love both of the lenses equally. If you want to do faux-Macro photography without buying a true macro lens, the 18-55 will work wonderfully. Try setting the camera mode to M, the Aperture to Somewhere between 3.5-4.5, ISO to 100-200 and adjust the shutter speed according to your light and what exposure you want. I've taken a few pretty cool close ups of some tree ornaments and flowers with the 18-55.

I've got the 55-300 instead of the 55-200 with my kit, but it definitely works wonders at a distance. I haven't had a chance to shoot many pictures of other people with it, but some longer shots of foliage came out wonderfully! Took one of a bit of leaves and of a creek bed yesterday with my 55-300 that I really love!

12-28-2011, 10:32 AM   #17
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I have the k-r with the 18-55, what lens would be good for taking photos of planes as the 18-55 doesn't get me close enough. Not looking to spend too much would the 50-200 be anygood for this?

thanks
12-28-2011, 10:49 AM - 1 Like   #18
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The 55-300 would be a lot better, or maybe a Sigma 70-300.
12-28-2011, 10:58 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by hnikesch Quote
With the 50-200 you are getting images you can't get with most P&S cameras and that makes you like them better, also the subject is filling the frame and focus has no choice but to be on the subject. Make sure to turn on the focus points so you know where the camera is focusing. I like to use center focus point and recompose after focus lock. Focus lock can be maintained by holding the shutter release down 1/2 way while you recompose the image.

Hans
That makes sense... Focus points are on and set to auto 11 at the moment.. Maybe that's where I'm going wrong take pictures of people ... Gonna try set to the grid so I know where it's focusing

I'm off to a pub quid tn8 with friends .. Light will be poor and rather not use flash to draw attention so not sure what my pics will be like but hoping there will be good thank u for ur advice..

12-28-2011, 11:02 AM   #20
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Try using a wide aperture (small number) then to try to compensate for the lack of light. Should let you keep the ISO still relatively low and avoid a lot of noise in your pictures
12-28-2011, 11:43 AM   #21
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Just having bit to a test session with rubbish light in the living room. Seem to be getting some ok shots at f5.6 and gonna set Iso to auto between 200 - 800 .quality is average on the focusing but better than nothing in P mode as well
12-28-2011, 11:55 AM   #22
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Noob question coming, but why when you have a larger aperature and less light coming in y the shutter speed is a lot slower than at a smaller aperature when iso remains the same ?
12-28-2011, 12:02 PM   #23
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Small # = big hole,
Big hole = more light
More light = shorter exposure (faster shutter)

And conversely

Large number = small hole
small hole = less light
less light = longer exposure (at same ISO)

Patersons book goes into this quite plainly.

12-28-2011, 12:03 PM   #24
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I'm assuming by larger aperture you mean a larger aperture number? A larger aperture number (F/22) means the aperture opening is very small, where as a small aperture number (F/3) means the aperture opening is very large.

So with a smaller aperture opening (larger number), the shutter speed needs to be slower to allow enough light to reach the sensors in order for the picture to be properly exposed. A larger aperture opening (smaller number); the opposite is true. Light will reach the sensors faster due to the larger opening, so a faster shutter speed is needed to compensate.

*EDIT* Mattt beat me to it!
12-28-2011, 12:13 PM   #25
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makes sense now. Really can't wait for this book to arrive!

getting some good quality shots now at f4.5 and 800iso.. (rubbish content in the photo but quality is there)

some shots are a bit orangey but I'm just been picky :P n i suppose whats photoshop for :P

Hopefully get a good shot or two tonight ill post one up, would be interesting to hear what settings everyone else may of used or the suggestions
12-28-2011, 01:01 PM   #26
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Unleash the hounds - set auto iso 200 -3200 or even 6400. This camera can handle it. By the way, this shot is in low light tungsten with the dreaded FA 50mm F1.4 opened pretty wide back lit with flash for fill. Maybe not studio quality, but I think its printable for the outlaws...er Inlaws

Attached: a photo from the local bowling alley

Focal 50mm
Exposure Time 1/50
Aperture F2.2
Sensitivity ISO 3200

Last edited by mattt; 01-07-2016 at 05:34 PM.
12-28-2011, 05:02 PM   #27
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if i could take pictures like that i would be happy.. the main issue I'm facing is focusing i think.. it never seems to focus on faces when i want.. what settings where u using? so far I've tried the auto 5 n 11.


Tonight the light wasn't the issue thanks to all your tips on the settings seemed to work really well. this is the best pic of the night of my two friends. just wish it had of focused a little more .. or am i just been to picky?
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12-28-2011, 05:21 PM   #28
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Try just using center point. Focus on your target, and while half pressing the shutter release, move the camera to frame your shot as you like. This is what we call the "focus and recompose" method. If the camera is trying to change its focus as you move it, switch the AF mode from AF-c or AF-auto to AF-s(ingle).
12-28-2011, 05:36 PM   #29
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FWIW - take a page out of Paterson - always post basic exif info with pics. ISO/shutter speed/Aperture. Most folks on the board are very helpful and the extra info results in less speculation. Your attached photo may have it, but connecting via mobile limits ability to see it.

I am mostly shooting spot focus AF-S as Dave has suggested.

I purchased my Kr Dec 26 2010. And in only a year I have shot 7000 frames. Admittedly I had some (alot of) bad shots, but I'd like to think I'm making headway through perseverance. Keep at it. The camera is capable enough to produce shots if you are willing to develop knowledge.
12-28-2011, 06:00 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by mattt Quote
Your attached photo may have it, but connecting via mobile limits ability to see it.
Just so everyone's aware, the forum strips exif from all attached images over the max file size/dimensions allowed (I think it's 1024px wide). Adam tried a different method awhile back which didn't, but reverted to the earlier method, afaik.
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