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02-29-2012, 03:56 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colbyt Quote
If I can horn it with a question? Which Eneloops? I am having some problems with quick drop off for some rechargeable off brand NiMH's that I bought. Think I need a better battery.
Not precisely certain what you mean by "which Eneloops" because they are all made by Sanyo. But I use this model myself


I buy them in this package


02-29-2012, 04:55 PM   #17
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You all need to go read this.https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-camera-field-accessories/92821-bat...-take-aas.html
02-29-2012, 05:18 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colbyt Quote
If I can horn it with a question? Which Eneloops? I am having some problems with quick drop off for some rechargeable off brand NiMH's that I bought. Think I need a better battery.
02-29-2012, 06:16 PM   #19
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There are two interesting things about those newer Eneloops - 1st they are rated at 2500mAh where the older ones are rated at 1900mAh and 2nd the older ones are rated at 1500 recharges and the newer ones at only 500. Not sure that the decrease in life expectancy of the newer models is worth the increase in charge they can maintain initially because my current 1900mAh Eneloops last 600-750 shots already per set. Then again, if I recharge a set 2x per week that's 100 charges in a year which means the new ones will last 5 years where the old ones would last 15 years. Perhaps 5 years is plenty?

Then there is the upfront cost for each. The new ones are $19.45 for 4 at Amazon shipped via Prime but the old ones are $10.24 for 4. So, nearly double the up front cost for ~1/3 greater charge but also 1/3 the life expectancy. Hmmm.......

02-29-2012, 07:29 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Docrwm Quote
There are two interesting things about those newer Eneloops - 1st they are rated at 2500mAh where the older ones are rated at 1900mAh and 2nd the older ones are rated at 1500 recharges and the newer ones at only 500.
That doesn't mean the new ones will explode after 500 recharge only that the capacity has dropped under a certain amount, no idea what the number prciesly is but i bet it's still more then the old version.
02-29-2012, 09:51 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by loco Quote
Thanks for the tip, will have to give that a try.

I thought I'd read people recommending to use only the Sanyo charger, but maybe this will work better. I hope so! Thanks again.


EDIT: Well darn, looks like that Duracell charger is out of production.
Sorry, I did buy that about a year ago. Just look for a charger that will charge each cell individually. Maha makes some as well. There is a Sony that is reported to work well. I looked on ebay and the CEF-23 is available, but it isn't cheap anymore. I've bought four of those Duracell chargers, I kept one and gave the others to family. Everyone that I gave them to reported that the chargers worked just fine.
03-01-2012, 07:03 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ex Finn. Quote

Excellent thread that I did not find yesterday because my search term was to specific. I have that open in another tab to wade through in just a bit.

Thanks for all the replies. My confusion stemmed from the perceived fact the there are 3 different eneloop grades 800 maH, 1900 /2000 maH and the 2500 maH. I don't use my camera everyday. There are times it might sit for weeks unused. It is the standby loss that is killing me and nothing else.
03-01-2012, 08:29 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colbyt Quote
Excellent thread that I did not find yesterday because my search term was to specific. I have that open in another tab to wade through in just a bit.

Thanks for all the replies. My confusion stemmed from the perceived fact the there are 3 different eneloop grades 800 maH, 1900 /2000 maH and the 2500 maH. I don't use my camera everyday. There are times it might sit for weeks unused. It is the standby loss that is killing me and nothing else.
The standby loss for Eneloops is outstanding. I have periods, now that I have the K-5, that the K-x sits for weeks - just turn it on and go with the Eneloops.

03-01-2012, 04:39 PM   #24
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K2000 rechargeable batteries.

QuoteOriginally posted by Docrwm Quote
The standby loss for Eneloops is outstanding. I have periods, now that I have the K-5, that the K-x sits for weeks - just turn it on and go with the Eneloops.
I am convinced and will buy some in a few days.


I have a fully charged set of the other brand sitting here beside my mouse. I am going to test them again in a few days and see what they have lost.

Just for the benefit of others who may search these forums, K2000 rechargeable batteries.
03-01-2012, 06:03 PM - 1 Like   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colbyt Quote
I am convinced and will buy some in a few days.


I have a fully charged set of the other brand sitting here beside my mouse. I am going to test them again in a few days and see what they have lost.

Just for the benefit of others who may search these forums, K2000 rechargeable batteries.
Sorry, didn't mean to push.
03-01-2012, 07:37 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Colbyt Quote
Just for the benefit of others who may search these forums, K2000 rechargeable batteries.
There are already 100 posts about that one.
There are two camps, most like the Eneloops type batteries for their slow self-discharge others like the NiZn batteries, those are also rechargeable but the give 1.6 volt close to lithium batteries instead of the lo 1.2volt. From what i hear the camera likes the 1.6 volt better, giving you faster focusing speed for example and less battery problems overall.
03-02-2012, 04:30 AM   #27
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it states in the manual that you should not use batteries above 1.5v. such as oxyride which put out 1.7 volts as it may damage the camera.
But 1.7V is the output of an empty battery as is the case with rechargeable (1.2 when empty) and alkalines (1.5 when empty)... I never owned oxyride batteries but I would guess that when fully fresh they should give up to 2V which if you multiply by 4 is 8, and standard Li-ion for k-r is 8.3 when fully charged. So I dont get the logic that oxyride would damage the camera.. I used a simple multimeter for voltages i mentioned above.
03-02-2012, 05:35 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by zvon Quote
it states in the manual that you should not use batteries above 1.5v. such as oxyride which put out 1.7 volts as it may damage the camera.
But 1.7V is the output of an empty battery as is the case with rechargeable (1.2 when empty) and alkalines (1.5 when empty)... I never owned oxyride batteries but I would guess that when fully fresh they should give up to 2V which if you multiply by 4 is 8, and standard Li-ion for k-r is 8.3 when fully charged. So I dont get the logic that oxyride would damage the camera.. I used a simple multimeter for voltages i mentioned above.
Here's my take on it, your mileage may vary.

I follow the manufacturers specs/recs when using a high priced electronic device. Does that mean I only use OEM equipment, no. What it does mean is that I follow the specs. So, if they say that Zinc batteries are not appropriate or that above 1.5v is not supported, I just don't use those items. Math is a funny thing. We all think we can do it and get the right answer, the problem is that we often don't know ALL the #'s involved in the equation and so in our simplification of the equation believe we have an answer that contradicts the manufacturer. We then act on that faulty conclusion thereby putting our equipment at risk. Batteries that are <1.5v are plentiful, cheap, and reliable. Stick with them.
03-02-2012, 09:00 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by zvon Quote
it states in the manual that you should not use batteries above 1.5v. such as oxyride which put out 1.7 volts as it may damage the camera.
But 1.7V is the output of an empty battery as is the case with rechargeable (1.2 when empty) and alkalines (1.5 when empty)... I never owned oxyride batteries but I would guess that when fully fresh they should give up to 2V which if you multiply by 4 is 8, and standard Li-ion for k-r is 8.3 when fully charged. So I dont get the logic that oxyride would damage the camera.. I used a simple multimeter for voltages i mentioned above.
Did you use a load on the battery when you checked voltage? Typically the voltage will be less under load than the static no-load condition. I could be wrong, but I am under the impression that the label voltage on small cells is a fresh battery with a typical load.
03-02-2012, 09:24 AM   #30
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I did not... I'm not an electrician to know this stuff. But your idea should be plausible... How could I test that?
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