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You can get a series of shots like that by using the interval timer, page 151 of the manual or just look in the [Rec. Mode 2] menu, then [Interval Shooting]. You enter the interval between shots first. The exposure time doesn't "count" - that is, if your exposure is 15 sec. and your interval is 45 sec., your second shot will start at 1 minute, third shot will start at 2 minutes, etc. It'll look like this:
[Start time]
[Shot 1, 15 sec.]
[Interval 1, 45 sec.]
[Shot 2, taken at start time + 1 min., 15 sec. exposure]
[Interval 2, 45 sec.]
etc.
You can set the number of shots up to 999. You can start immediately or choose a particular time to start shooting. The camera clock is used for the start time so make sure it's on the right time zone.
Some obvious disclaimers are in the manual, like there has to be space on the memory card. Less obvious: the camera will use single frame shooting even if it's set to something else. You can hit the power switch, switch modes or press a button on the back of the camera to cancel shooting. The camera keeps shooting even if Auto Power Off is selected. You'll need enough battery power or the AC adapter.
Your subject, intent and output will decide your mode. The camera can be set to refocus for each shot but if it can't focus, it'll skip that shot, so I would set the focus first and switch to MF for greater reliability. You can decide whether to use a mode where exposure will vary, like Av, or a mode where it's locked like M. The frames will be closer to the same brightness if the exposure can change, less distracting but maybe unrealistic if the sun is rising. The camera will continue with the same intervals even if exposure time varies, which is very useful. Be careful choosing a mode where aperture varies, because that will change depth of field during the time lapse, an odd effect. You might want to control other Auto settings like white balance.
It shouldn't be necessary to create full-scale RAW images for the shots. You can set the camera to create JPGs that are closer to a video resolution, maybe even one or two stars. With a lot of frames no one will notice the quality drop. It will take less time to process and assemble the time lapse if the files are smaller.
I'm sure there are a lot of software packages that can assemble the time lapse. I use Photoshop Elements 9.
aTOMx mentioned using a neutral density filter. That would allow longer exposure times for the individual shots. He could take the same type of time lapse, but with longer exposures, the people would not show up unless they were still for a long time. It would emphasize clouds and sun position changes instead.
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Post #3 by Just1MoreDave
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