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10-13-2012, 02:38 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steampunk Quote
What are you using for a lens? Soft focus around the edges is often a product of the lens being used, and a lot of lenses will do this at some focal lengths and f-stop settings. I have 4 lenses for my K-r and 3 lenses for my Nikon D90 and they all exhibit soft focus at the edges dependent upon the settings. Generally you can expect better focus at the edges in the middle range of the lens with a setting of f8-f10 and a faster shutter speed. If you are using a kit lens of 18-55mm and are using the wider angles you will get softer focus and distortion at the lower end of the range. Take some test shots with the lens set to mid focal length and a smaller (higher) f-stop and see if it persists. Also check where the camera is focusing. How are the main portions of the center of the photo?
Not wishing to hijack the thread, but I've got the 18-55 kit lens. I'll have a look at some past shots bearing your thoughts in mind. Thanks.

10-13-2012, 07:45 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by hollywoodhr Quote
I'm shooting JPEG
Switch to shooting RAW. I'll be honest, I think my inexpensive Olympus P&S produces better in-camera jpeg images in regards to exposure and automatic white balance than my K-r. And when I look at how any of several RAW image viewers render the image (essentially creating their own jpeg rendering), they often look better than Pentax's in-camera jpeg processor.

I, like many in this forum shoot RAW. In fact, I just use a bigger SD card and shoot RAW + jpeg. For non-artistic record image shots, the in-camera jpeg is good enough and typically I just reduce the size before sending it off. For anything worth keeping, it is worthwhile to use my computer to create the jpeg from the RAW image. Picassa is a free download from Google and usually does a decent automatic RAW to jpeg rendition. Faststone Image Viewer is donationware and works well too. There are many other options both free and paid.
10-13-2012, 07:54 AM   #33
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This is a good article about steady shooting techniques, Making the Most of Long Exposure Handhelds - Introduction - PentaxForums.com, and here's a directory of articles members on this site have written. Member Photo Articles - Camera Technique - PentaxForums.com
10-13-2012, 09:02 AM   #34
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I'll shoot RAW for some time and see if that helps. I have actually thought about shooting RAW before, but I don't know, didn't really feel like it or whatever the reason was I chose not to.

I will check those links out too, thank you!

10-13-2012, 10:34 PM   #35
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RAW makes a big difference. A very good starter to see what you can do with it is FastStone Image Viewer, Screen Capture, Photo Resizer ....
10-14-2012, 06:31 AM   #36
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Alright, took some photos today, in that raw format. All I have to say at the moment is that's more like it haha. I like my photos much more. Well, I guess there is motion blur, but the edges don't look soft, like they did at first. I used mainly P mode, but I also used Av, I don't remember why though and I carried the manual with me, just in case

What do you think of these?









macros usually turned out nice













i don't like this one

10-14-2012, 06:39 AM   #37
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I think you're making progress! Still a bit soft, IMO, but much better than before - great Fall colors.
10-14-2012, 06:41 AM   #38
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If you have a big fast SD chip, you can shoot RAW+, which saves both RAW and jpeg images on your card.

The biggest downside to RAW is some of the in-camera image manipulation tools will only work if you are shooting just jpeg. Since I never had these tools in the film world, I don't miss them. And if I decide that I really want to use them, I can always make a temporary switch to jpeg.

It sounds like you, like so many other photographers, are discovering the benefits of RAW.

10-14-2012, 06:56 AM   #39
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Thanks!
10-14-2012, 07:13 AM   #40
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There is an easy way I use to make sure my subject is almost always correctly exposed. In the settings I use AE-L with AF locked and Link AE to AF point. I always focus on my subject and recompose.
I also use the center point for AE metering or the middle setting, almost never the full picture setting unless I clearly need it.
Hope it helps.
10-14-2012, 07:29 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Finger Quote
In the settings I use AE-L with AF locked and Link AE to AF point.
Sorry, I don't understand what this means.
10-14-2012, 08:16 AM   #42
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Press menu and go to the right, under the C tab. You should find these settings.

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/KR/screens/Z_0195.jpg
10-14-2012, 08:23 AM   #43
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Oh yeah, oups, I was looking at the wrong thing.
So, do I set it on "on" or what?
10-14-2012, 08:36 AM   #44
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On on yes. Maybe you will not like it, after all it's off per default, but for me, taking photographs of my kids, it's a life saver.
If the sky is very bright I will use center point for AE metering, the middle one most of the time.
10-14-2012, 08:38 AM   #45
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Okay, thanks. I will see if that works for me, too.
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