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11-22-2012, 11:01 AM   #76
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Fair enough re: editing, though I do find that a tiny bit of contrast boost and dropping saturation and the blues down can make a huge difference - turning a shot from 'meh' to 'phwoar'. Seems to lift a veil and reveal what's really underneath.

What colour setting are you using out of interest? You might find a change just by switching from neutral to vivid for example.

11-22-2012, 11:12 AM   #77
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haha, sorry, but I don't understand this:
QuoteQuote:
What colour setting are you using out of interest?
....
11-22-2012, 11:43 AM   #78
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QuoteOriginally posted by hollywoodhr Quote
This is the information of the first photo (photo). I used a picture that I had already converted to jpeg, so basically it is not from an original, cuz I don't have the originals.
ExposureBiasValue - 1.70
White Balance - Manual
SubjectDistanceRange - Close view
This image is heavily underexposed (see the attached histogram I made of this image) and, surprisingly the focus seems to be not where I'd expect it to be. Until you are a bit more experienced, I'd leave the white-balance on one of the presets or on auto unless you are shooting under strange lighting conditions inside.
So:
1. set the exposure compensation to 0
2. Set WB to auto
3. Use the central focuspoint, focus by half-pressing the shutter release and recomposing.

QuoteQuote:
The second one: (photo)
White Balance - Manual
SubjectDistanceRange - Distant view
This one puzzles me. Except for the WB (which should better be on auto here) I cannot see much wrong with the settings and yet the image does not spring alive, it is flat and dull. Would that be because of something Picasa did.? Maybe someone else could jump in.

QuoteQuote:
The third one: (photo)

FNumber - 20.00
ExposureProgram - Creative program
ExposureBiasValue - 0.00
MeteringMode - Center weighted average
ExposureMode - Auto
White Balance - Auto
Ouch! An F-stop of 20 means diffraction is going to rob you of any sharpness the image might have had and this is one of those "strange lighting" circumstances where auto-WB does not work and should be avoided. Next time, drop your ISO to avoid these extreme apertures and set WB to one of the presets. Also, a sun setting in the center of the image means you should probably steer clear of "center weighed" metering and go for the averaged metering.

I hope this helps but as I said way back in the beginning of this topic, you're all over the place. Try nailing a few things down like exposure correction, white balance and play with only a few variables until you are confident you can predict what the result of a change will be. Also, check what you are doing with Picasa. If you are using it for raw conversion you might want to tweak a few settings as the conversions seem flat and dull. A suitable tonecurve and S-shaped contrast curve should make a world of change there.
Attached Images
 
11-22-2012, 11:57 AM   #79
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Sorry, I wasn't very clear there. What I meant was, what custom colour mode do you have the camera set on? The options include bright, vivid, neutral, etc. Changing that can make quite a difference, as can tweaking settings like sharpness, contrast and the like. These threads might help explain it better than me....

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-r/133319-k-r-custom-image-tone-p...-compared.html

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-r/129610-pentax-kr-best-settings.html

11-22-2012, 12:40 PM   #80
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QuoteOriginally posted by wildweasel Quote
What I meant was, what custom colour mode do you have the camera set on?
I had it on bright. Actually I didn't even know what these were, so I didn't look closer and never changed anything there. Thanks!

QuoteOriginally posted by newmikey Quote
This image is heavily underexposed (see the attached histogram I made of this image)
I don't understand this.

Thanks for the advice!
11-22-2012, 01:38 PM   #81
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QuoteOriginally posted by hollywoodhr Quote

I don't understand this.

Thanks for the advice!
Must-read:
Understanding Overexposure and Underexposure | Pixiq
11-22-2012, 01:58 PM   #82
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In short, under exposed means that not enough light got to the sensor. You can get more light to it by either upping iso (usually the last thing to do above 800/1600 if you can avoid it), decreasing shutter speed or opening the aperture. On an overcast day like the first shot, for a landscape like that, I would have used iso 100-400, f5.6 to 8, and a shutter speed that worked with that - probably at least 1/100th of a second or so. That combination would allow the sensor to work at its best and gather the maximum amount of detail and colours, the aperture would keep everything in focus and the shutter speed is high enough to avoid camera shake.

Have you heard of the 'exposure triangle'? It's pretty much what I just explained. A good way of practising it is to use 'AV' on the camera to set the aperture you need for artistic effect (or, in low light, to keep your shutter speed up), set the iso where you think it needs to be, and let the camera worry about shutter speed. If it's too dark open the aperture up or increase the iso, and try again. You'll very quickly get a feel for what works, especially if you experiment; I took hundreds of pictures of a plant on the kitchen table when I got my first camera, just playing with the exposure triangle to see what happened and I'm still very glad that I did as it taught me things I use every time I pick up a camera. In fact, I still do the same every time I get a new camera, flash or lens as it lets me quickly get a bit of an idea of what works best for each new bit of equipment.

When you've got the hang of AV you can then try TV, where you set the shutter speed and let the camera choose the aperture. Then, when you have learnt skills in both you can shoot in manual mode with the experience and skill to set the camera 'just right' without even really thinking of it. I use auto iso (called TaV on Pentax) but still use what I learned by playing with the AV and TV modes so I can balance the three parts of the triangle to get the best photo for each situation.

I hope I haven't made anything sound too complicated, it's actually rather simple and easy to learn through practising.

Edit. Forgot to add this link. http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm. I found that site to be really helpful with very good information written in an understandable manner.

Last edited by wildweasel; 11-22-2012 at 02:14 PM.
11-22-2012, 02:11 PM   #83
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QuoteOriginally posted by wildweasel Quote
In short, under exposed means that not enough light got to the sensor. You can get more light to it by either upping iso (usually the last thing to do above 800/1600 if you can avoid it), decreasing shutter speed or opening the aperture. On an overcast day like the first shot, for a landscape like that, I would have used iso 100-400, f5.6 to 8, and a shutter speed that worked with that - probably at least 1/100th of a second or so. That combination would allow the sensor to work at its best and gather the maximum amount of detail and colours, the aperture would keep everything in focus and the shutter speed is high enough to avoid camera shake.
Ditto that, but on the first shot EXIF shows the image was intentionally underexposed (ExposureBiasValue - 1.70) which is something I didn't understand.

11-23-2012, 02:06 PM   #84
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Hello, been reading the posts and congratulations with your K-r! Since everything seems to be covered, might as well share some tips/settings

-The Kr is a lovely camera and can take clean photos at ISO800 and might help for hand held shots since if I got it correctly
-I use Av mode a lot, been used to it ever since I first held my SLR 15 years ago, could help you as well and let the camera worry about the shutter speed
-Breathing technique, inhale > hold breath > shoot > exhale
-Switching to a prime lens might help since they are generally sharper than kit/zoom lens but that does not mean they are bad


Exposure 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture f/5.6
Focal Length 55 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Bias -0.3 EV

DAL 18-55

-Selecting "Select Point" AF can help a lot in helping your camera focus on where you want it to be
-For portraits, it depends on the lens I'm using but most of the time its at f2.4~f4 and for landscapes which I rarely do is at f5.6~f8
-The Sunny 16 rule might help: Sunny 16 rule - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

-Again switching to a better lens might help a lot:

xposure 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture f/2.4
Focal Length 70 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Bias 0 EV

DA 70mm f2.4 Limited


Exposure 0.077 sec (1/13)
Aperture f/2.4
Focal Length 35 mm
ISO Speed 200
Exposure Bias 0 EV

DA 35mm f2.4
11-23-2012, 05:19 PM   #85
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QuoteOriginally posted by newmikey Quote
Ditto that, but on the first shot EXIF shows the image was intentionally underexposed (ExposureBiasValue - 1.70) which is something I didn't understand.
I set my camera on "sunset" scene and that's all I did..

fakuryu, thanks for the tips! I had never heard of the Sunny 16 rule before. Your first photo is so beautiful, I can't believe how sharp it is!!
11-23-2012, 09:49 PM   #86
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QuoteOriginally posted by hollywoodhr Quote
I set my camera on "sunset" scene and that's all I did..
Are you taking me for a ride here? I'm starting to believe this post is just a bit of clever trolling. No other way to explain it. I'll give it one more try: why sunset mode on that first image if there is no sunset? Are you aware of what sunset mode does? Why complain about image quality if you intentionally mishandle camera settings like that?
11-23-2012, 09:49 PM   #87
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Great pictures, I just knew the KR had it in her to do shots like yours, fakuryu. I read this thread daily, since I am learning along with the others who are relatively new to the KR.

Might I ask for lens suggestions? Sometimes I need a little more reach than my 18-55 kit lens allows. I would like to purchase my first automatic zoom, probably from Adorama, B&H, or here in the forum. (I like having a manual option on those if I can get it.)

I have been using a Sears 135mm manual lens at the football stadium, and it is a lot of work; I am missing some shots. Focusing is difficult, but mostly, it's a manual lens, and when the sun sets, my light disappears. So I open it wide but still end up doing a ton of post-processing to lighten/sharpen the photos. (the green button is not helping much with that.) I think an automatic zoom would eliminate much of my frustration.

Ok, back to the subject at hand and learning how to get the most out of KR image quality. Thanks.
11-23-2012, 11:15 PM   #88
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QuoteOriginally posted by hollywoodhr Quote
I set my camera on "sunset" scene and that's all I did..

fakuryu, thanks for the tips! I had never heard of the Sunny 16 rule before. Your first photo is so beautiful, I can't believe how sharp it is!!
No prob! Whenever I shoot something in where want the colors to pop out, I set the exposure to -.3 then lock the exposure on the highlights (setting AE-L helps a lot, lock the exposure then recompose), shoot RAW and pull the colors in Photoshop or Lightroom by increasing the contrast. BTW f/5.6 is generally the sharpest aperture setting with the kit lens. Then all it takes is proper focusing and technique

One thing that can help you a lot is avoid the scene modes and try to set your exposures manually.


QuoteOriginally posted by timmijo Quote
Great pictures, I just knew the KR had it in her to do shots like yours, fakuryu. I read this thread daily, since I am learning along with the others who are relatively new to the KR.

Might I ask for lens suggestions? Sometimes I need a little more reach than my 18-55 kit lens allows. I would like to purchase my first automatic zoom, probably from Adorama, B&H, or here in the forum. (I like having a manual option on those if I can get it.)

I have been using a Sears 135mm manual lens at the football stadium, and it is a lot of work; I am missing some shots. Focusing is difficult, but mostly, it's a manual lens, and when the sun sets, my light disappears. So I open it wide but still end up doing a ton of post-processing to lighten/sharpen the photos. (the green button is not helping much with that.) I think an automatic zoom would eliminate much of my frustration.

Ok, back to the subject at hand and learning how to get the most out of KR image quality. Thanks.
For AF zoom lens, sorry I don't have any idea since I've been a prime shooter for so long! But I'm hearing good things about the Tamrom/Sigma 70-200 f2.8 or the DA* 50-135 if you have the spare cash.

The Kr is probably one of the best DSLR I used that when the K30 came out, all I wanted was the bigger OVF... so I bought the OVF magnifier instead.

Camera Pentax K-r
Exposure 0.05 sec (1/20)
Aperture f/2.8
Focal Length 40 mm
ISO Speed 800
Exposure Bias -0.3 EV

DA 40 f2.8 Limited
11-24-2012, 04:22 AM   #89
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QuoteOriginally posted by newmikey Quote
Are you taking me for a ride here? I'm starting to believe this post is just a bit of clever trolling. No other way to explain it. I'll give it one more try: why sunset mode on that first image if there is no sunset? Are you aware of what sunset mode does? Why complain about image quality if you intentionally mishandle camera settings like that?
Nooo, I would never waste my or other people's time like that. I do have a job too, which is quite stressful, so trolling a forum in my freetime (which I basicaly don't even have anymore) wouldn't come even in consideration. I was actually talking about the third photo, where there is a sunset, I used the sunset mode there. I did write that under the photo, too. The first two pictures were taken with the P mode, (or Av or Tv). Like I said in my first post, this is my first DSLR camera, so no, I am not aware of what the modes here do on the level that you may be. I don't "intentionally mishandle camera settings". Right now, yes I've learned a lot, but obv it takes more time to completely understand.
I'm actually planning on going to work part time, so I could focus more on photography.
I'm sorry for this misunderstanding. I still appreciate your help.
I hope this explanation satisfies you, because it's the only one I've got...
11-24-2012, 06:55 AM   #90
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QuoteOriginally posted by hollywoodhr Quote
I still appreciate your help.
I hope this explanation satisfies you, because it's the only one I've got...
Absolutely and I'm really, REALLY ashamed and sorry I doubted you

On that first shot, exif shows you dialed in exposure compensation of -1.7 which underexposes the shot badly and this might be why it didn't turn out. In P-mode you can still under- or overexpose and that's what you (unintentionally) did here.

On the sunset shot, which is really hard, the focus is off because the focus sensor got totally overwhelmed, blinded so to speak. Next time, try manual focus.

Again, I'd really urge you to read and study the manual until you actually understand what each control and menu option does. Also, as I suggested in the beginning, stick to one mode for a while rather than complicating things for yourself. I'd take Av mode as a starter, set exposure correction to zero and all other menu options to default. Then post a few images and we'll take it from there.
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