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10-25-2012, 10:42 PM   #16
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I have an SMC F/2.0 kit lens that came with my good ol' ME Super purchased some 25 years ago. While it's not as nice as the faster 50s, I have been pleased with it's performance on my k-r. As others have noted, it's a challenge to focus wide open but at . I've used it taking pictures of my daughter's sporting events and was pleased with the results. It's reasonably fast compared to the kit lenses in a darkened gym, but admittedly, it's not a zoom so getting close the the action is a challenge. But I'm a relative newbie to DSLR. I just think it's cool that I can use my old lenses with the k-r. I also have an SMC M 80/200mm F4.5 and SMC A 35-70 F4. Neither are top of the line lenses, but work fine in my k-r. It was a bit frustrating at first to get the right exposure, but I had a real "A-HA!" moment when I learned about the green button on this forum. My A 35-70 also does quite well with the advantage of the A setting which allows you to adjust aperture settings by the camera vs manually adjusting the aperture ring. Be patient and you can find a good quality copy for not much cash.

10-26-2012, 07:06 AM   #17
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Tonyr99: I acquired the A35-70/4 back in May, and that lens was glued to the camera for much of the summer! I really like the saturated colors, sharpness, and rendering of this lens. Yeah, it's a bit slow at f/4, but in good light it's a stellar performer imo. Be sure to try out its close-up mode - sharp even wide-open with nice bokeh. It did very well with a lot of flower shots I took with it. Be sure to use a hood (but maybe you knew that) !
10-26-2012, 11:12 PM   #18
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@paulh
I actually ended up picking a decent little package on craigslist. I was able to get an A-50mm F/2, a Sears 135mm F/2.8, a vivitar flash, & a broken k1000 for $30. The 50 is a little tired but I can accept that since its 30yrs old. Im enjoying trying to figure the whole "using manual lenses" thing out. Ive seen reference to the green button and manual lenses in a few places, can you explain it a bit?
10-27-2012, 06:19 AM - 2 Likes   #19
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A few different ways to use manual lens on K-r

#1- see attached pdf on using the Green Button (link below)
#2- Following the posts in this thread on DPReview
#3- Make ALL lens perform as though they are A-series lens. This involves two steps:
  • short the A contact on your camera body
  • apply insulator spots on the lens flange
Both are non-destructive and fully reversible.
See this thread and then scroll up a couple posts for the text. ***note that when using a non-A lens in this fashion, you may have to do some exposure compensation as manual lens apertures don't always behave the same way as the aperture on an A-series lens. It just takes a couple tests shots to create a 'cheat sheet'.

Attached Images
File Type: pdf Shooting manual lenses on Pentax DSLRs.pdf (1.17 MB, 312 views)
10-27-2012, 07:36 AM - 1 Like   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by jt1667 Quote
@paulh
I actually ended up picking a decent little package on craigslist. I was able to get an A-50mm F/2, a Sears 135mm F/2.8, a vivitar flash, & a broken k1000 for $30. The 50 is a little tired but I can accept that since its 30yrs old. Im enjoying trying to figure the whole "using manual lenses" thing out. Ive seen reference to the green button and manual lenses in a few places, can you explain it a bit?
Sounds like a pretty nice deal. Be careful using that Vivitar flash, if it's an older one it may not be safe to use with a DSLR. Check the flash forums for more info on flash voltages.

Re: the green button ---> https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/110658-using-ma...x-dslrs-f.html Use the green button on non-A lenses.

JimJohnson posted some useful info above also. Your A-lens doesn't require the green button, you can shoot in any mode you like. You still have to focus manually, of course
10-28-2012, 03:20 AM   #21
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Thanks for the tips! So far Ive enjoyed learning about the manual lenses. The styling on the pics from the 50mm are definitely different than the 18-55 kit lens for my K-r. Now that Ive started I will most likely keep scouring through C-list for more manual lenses on a low budget. Ill post a few pics when I get some more time.
10-28-2012, 03:34 AM   #22
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What's wrong with the K1000?
10-28-2012, 04:43 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
What's wrong with the K1000?
to be honest with you i actually dont believe that theres anything wrong with the k1000. the guy i bought the stuff from really had no idea what he even was selling, he just found it in his house he bought. as far as the camera goes the film door opens, the rollers seem to advance properly (no 35mm film to test out), shutter opens & closes. i cross checked the serial number on the body to the serial number section here in the forum and the camera would be in the 1977-78 time frame.

i really wouldnt mind selling it cheaply if someone were to want the thing (even just for parts)

11-07-2012, 02:01 PM   #24
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test photo

Here's a test photo using the 50mm lens that I bought. I know that its not the most crisp shot in the world but Im still learning this very tricky lens. Im struggling to effectively focus the lens.

Last edited by jt1667; 01-06-2013 at 04:24 PM.
11-07-2012, 05:04 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by jt1667 Quote
Here's a test photo ... Im struggling to effectively focus the lens.
It looks like your focus was just in front of your subject (see the edge of the table).

Manually focusing with the K-r:

Use center spot focus. Leave your camera's switch set to AF. Aim at the point of critical focus (your son's nearest eye in this case) Watch for the blinking red dot. Now carefully turn the lens focus until you see the green octagon (like a stop sign) in the viewfinder. Double-check your focus looking at the matte focus screen (although this is the toughest way to focus with the stock K-r focus screen). Recompose being careful not to change camera to subject distance. Check the matte screen a second time.

OR - use Live View

OR - use Catch in Focus (page 136 in your manual)
11-09-2012, 01:54 PM   #26
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garbage shots? for sure not.

i have k-r and using 50mm 1.4 and 1.7. great lenses! I suggest to wait for a while and buy more expensive faster 1.7 lens instead of f2

i also suggest to check out catch in focus option. try manual or google.

Last edited by romansolar; 11-09-2012 at 02:01 PM.
11-09-2012, 02:35 PM   #27
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The f2 version is ok in my opinion, but the 1.7 is better. If the lens you've bought is the same as the one you posted a photo of, I'd buy a blower brush next.
A lens should never be placed on carpet without the rear cap attached. That's a great way to suck up dust.

Regards
11-10-2012, 12:01 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by sam-joseph Quote
The f2 version is ok in my opinion, but the 1.7 is better. If the lens you've bought is the same as the one you posted a photo of, I'd buy a blower brush next.
A lens should never be placed on carpet without the rear cap attached. That's a great way to suck up dust.

Regards

The lens I posted the photo of was not the lens I bought. Still an f2 but i think it was just as dirty. I did blow it out and used a lens brush on it. There was a noticable layer of dirt on it so the lens was probably thankful for a new owner to clean it.

The f2 is a decent little lens to start out with (even though the one I bought is pretty old & fairly tired). Ill be on the hunt for some new lenses.


@JimJohnson - thanks for the advice on my focusing problem.
11-11-2012, 01:29 PM   #29
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Thought Id post a couple more pictures that I took yesterday using the little 50 f2. I decided Id try and use the suggestion that @JimJohnson gave of using the Catch-in-Focus.

Let me know what you guys think.

Also I originally took the pictures in RAW and then when I watermarked them it was saved in JPEG. (not sure if that matters anything at all)

Last edited by jt1667; 01-06-2013 at 04:24 PM.
12-06-2012, 11:31 PM   #30
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Hi, sorry to say but those pix are blurred - maybe your shutter speed is too low for your hands?

I have the f1.7 50mm lens and it is dfficult to focus - the DOF is very short at big apertures and your exif data does not indicate what aperture setting you used, so maybe that is part of the problem?

Use LV next time and stabilise the camera with something like a tripod or table.
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