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12-11-2013, 08:07 AM   #1
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mirror flop? shutter issues, vibrations...

Not sure if this mirror flip, I tried researching it, but couldn't work out if same issue.
For months now, occassionally my shutter will "stick" during a shot, the end result being a fairly white image, it'll do this a couple of times then "unstick" itself.

I haven't used the camera in a couple of months, so tried using it last week and noticed the problem was more frequent, normally it'll happen toward the end of battery life, but I had just charged both my batteries, getting somewhat conerned.

I noticed dust, so I ran the test then proceeded to use the system to clean it, didn't work so ran it twice more, still wasn't clean so gave up.

Here's the new, more worrying problem - sometimes ( I think I've isolated it to longer exposure/longer zoom shots, haven't tried a 2nd lens yet) it vibrates when taking the shot, the same sort of vibration as when you clean it.

Any ideas?

12-11-2013, 09:55 AM   #2
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Sure be nice to know what camera you are talking about...
12-11-2013, 10:59 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by wes k Quote
Not sure if this mirror flip, I tried researching it, but couldn't work out if same issue.
For months now, occassionally my shutter will "stick" during a shot, the end result being a fairly white image, it'll do this a couple of times then "unstick" itself.

I haven't used the camera in a couple of months, so tried using it last week and noticed the problem was more frequent, normally it'll happen toward the end of battery life, but I had just charged both my batteries, getting somewhat conerned.

I noticed dust, so I ran the test then proceeded to use the system to clean it, didn't work so ran it twice more, still wasn't clean so gave up.

Here's the new, more worrying problem - sometimes ( I think I've isolated it to longer exposure/longer zoom shots, haven't tried a 2nd lens yet) it vibrates when taking the shot, the same sort of vibration as when you clean it.

Any ideas?
You don't accidentally have exposure compensation turned up, or have it set to do multiple exposure bracketing with +3 or higher when you tap the RAW button on the front, do you? I have that button mapped to bracketing with 5 photos in either 1 or 2 stop differences depending on the scene, and frequently end up with some blurry images as I lower the camera as it starts exposures I didn't intend to take. If you get something like 1 good photo and one badly overexposed photo, it might be something like that -- a 2 photo bracketing, with one set to +5 or something.

But probably not. Just a thought.
12-11-2013, 11:02 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by blackcloudbrew Quote
Sure be nice to know what camera you are talking about...
His profile says
Photographic Equipment
Pentax K-r
Lensbaby scout

If the Lensbaby is the only lens you have, since it's completely manual, maybe something else is going on.

When you take the photo, what shutter speed is it set to? Can you post the details from one of the overexposed images?

12-11-2013, 11:18 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by blackcloudbrew Quote
Sure be nice to know what camera you are talking about...
Is it a hint that it's posted in the K-r section
12-11-2013, 11:26 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by wes k Quote
Not sure if this mirror flip, I tried researching it, but couldn't work out if same issue.
For months now, occassionally my shutter will "stick" during a shot, the end result being a fairly white image, it'll do this a couple of times then "unstick" itself.

I haven't used the camera in a couple of months, so tried using it last week and noticed the problem was more frequent, normally it'll happen toward the end of battery life, but I had just charged both my batteries, getting somewhat conerned.

I noticed dust, so I ran the test then proceeded to use the system to clean it, didn't work so ran it twice more, still wasn't clean so gave up.

Here's the new, more worrying problem - sometimes ( I think I've isolated it to longer exposure/longer zoom shots, haven't tried a 2nd lens yet) it vibrates when taking the shot, the same sort of vibration as when you clean it.

Any ideas?
Are your batteries still OK? They might no longer be as 'strong' as when they where young
Have you tried to switch SR off and see how that affects the vibrations.

If new batteries don't help, I'm afraid that your camera is diying.

For the dust, get a rocket blower and try that. If it's sticky dust, the sensor needs a so-called wet clean; I'm not brave enough for that so I would take it to the repair center (more or less around the corner).
12-12-2013, 10:07 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by sterretje Quote
Is it a hint that it's posted in the K-r section
12-12-2013, 11:39 AM   #8
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Cheapo battery is only a year old, not sure on the other as it's a 2nd hand camera, both appear to be in good health though.

exposure bracketing - nope

Scout isn't my only lens, I gave up on that a long time ago lol
Usually has my sigma 50-200 attached.

Tried my kit lens today, fired off hundreds of shots no problem, just checked SR - doesn't even give me the option to turn it on, so that's not it.

Double checked MF/AF switches, all were good today before trying the kit lens, vibration issue hasn't cropped up today, so that could be resolved by itself, either that or I was imagining it!

Tried a mixture of close-up and distance, long exposure and short in good and bad light, no issues today on either lens, always the way isn't it!!

Basically though - my mirror flop issue, it normally makes a "clink-clunk" noise when the shutter goes, clink on the way down, clunk when the shot finishes (if that make sense)

what happens sometimes is that it clinks down, but sticks, and sometimes if I leave my finger down, I can make it click a couple more times, before I can feel it, and hear it - clunk! This is my issue, which is why it obviously creates white-out shots as the shutter is open for an extended period.

12-13-2013, 01:10 AM   #9
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I've heard all the excuses on this one... batteries, dirty contacts, whatever. I've used 4 different pentax bodies and never had a similar issue.

My Kr only acts up when it doesn't have an aperture reading. If I swap to an A lens the problem goes away, swap back to an M and it comes back...

I forgot to add my fix is to put masking tape over all the body contacts when shooting manual lenses. This insulates the contacts from being shorted together by the solid metal lens base.

Last edited by jkomp316; 04-17-2014 at 07:42 PM.
12-28-2013, 10:17 AM   #10
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I have had a similar problem with mirror 'flop' on my K-r. It onlu happened with particular lenses - Tamron 70-300 and Pentax 18-135.
I read somewhere that it can be caused by the battery, and to swapover to the AA battery holder. I did this, and have not had a problem since. Something to do with slightly different voltage and the body really being designed for the 4 x AA batteries. Not sure of the technicalities but it worked for me
02-21-2014, 05:59 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by jkomp316 Quote
I've heard all the excuses on this one... batteries, dirty contacts, whatever. I've used 4 different pentax bodies and never had a similar issue.

My Kr only acts up when it doesn't have an aperture reading. If I swap to an A lens the problem goes away, swap back to an M and it comes back...

I forgot to add my fix is to put masking tape over all the contacts when shooting manual lenses.
ooh, interesting

Not used the Penty since December when the vibration issue sorted itself, used it last week and kinda narrowed down my "flop" issue only presents itself when using my Sigma 50-200 at the long range, and only occasionally, so I can handle that, but it's not great.

Then last week I also won a ME Super on ebay and it arrived today, I only bought it for the M F1.7 50mm, after 10 minutes of fiddling with settings to get the thing to work I got it to produce some super smooth shots, only problem is, I get this "flop" issue with EVERY shutter press.

I'll add more detail here that i've left out previously by accident - I press the shutter, it clicks then through the viewfinder the (presumably) shutter drops a mm or 2, the viewfinder image goes blurry, you can continue to click away with the shutter depressed, then at some point it clunks back up and becomes clear again. This is my issue.

Is this the same experience you get Mr jkomp?

Only difference between this and the sigma is the shots come out quite well still with the 50mm whereas the sigma shots are whited-out during the click-clunk process.

Will have to try the masking tape on the contacts trick, but this doesn't explain why I have problems with my sigma
04-16-2014, 04:44 AM   #12
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Well, with the 50mm the problem was I was shooting in A mode with an M lens, switch to manual and problem disappears, great! Except now I've got to learn how to work out shutter speeds (I always shoot aperture priority)
I did manage 100 shots today with it in auto, which was fantastic, then it started its flop problem again, and then another problem cropped up, yay.

Whilst experimenting with my manual fisheye, the k-r did it's other party-piece of releasing the shutter with every key press, I've had this before but it rectified itself after being powered off, not this time! 5 minutes off this, removing batteries before searching here, suggestion of remove lens, hold shutter tab at side of mirror down, remove battery, power back-up didn't work for me, so I held it in place and released the shutter a few times till it worked!!!!!
They say its a sticky shutter tab, but doesn't apply to me, this must be electrical. Which I sort of already knew.

So this brings me back to my sigma 50-200, why do I have this problem with this lens, and why only zoomed in?


Also, if there's any way to cover the contacts when using my M 50mm and RETAIN aperture priority function, that'd be great
04-18-2014, 03:20 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by jkomp316 Quote
I forgot to add my fix is to put masking tape over all the body contacts when shooting manual lenses. This insulates the contacts from being shorted together by the solid metal lens base.
I have a K-r too and have also been wrestling with the idiosyncratic behaviour of the camera with manual lenses. see for example:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/38-photographic-technique/249099-manual-lens-metering.html

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/120-general-technical-troubleshooting/247...s-k-500-a.html

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/120-general-technical-troubleshooting/233...nge-issue.html

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/131-visitors-center/222413-please-help-kr...en-button.html

So your not alone with this sort of thing!

I'm curious howeveer: one of my (and others) solutions, specifically with M42 lenses, is to create a contact eg with foil. Certainly my experience is that there is an issue with exposure compensation otherwise. How do you find metering with your taped contacts?
04-29-2014, 11:23 PM   #14
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i have started a thread recently about my K-r died. I had no time or access to PC yet to add more details to that thread, but here is a quick summary:

diaphragm motor has died in my camera. This was caused by use of k/m lenses. First I had similar symptoms as you describe, and after one year of such: motor gave up. Seems like aperture lever or blades itself became more tight to move (lack of lens service?) and this created extra load on the motor.

While i am not 100% sure yet i strongly suggest you to stop using old lenses and ones which cause the behaviour. Btw, battery complains above seems to be confirming my theory since poor batteries would explain lower motor performance.

I am traveling now without camera
04-30-2014, 12:15 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by d1pr3d Quote
Seems like aperture lever or blades itself became more tight to move and this created extra load on the motor.
I'm having a hard time putting your details together. The camera is operable independent of aperture feedback.

What symptoms is your camera displaying?
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