When I first acquired and tried to use an M42 lens (a helios 44) on my K-r it was all a bit perplexing: all my pics were way underexposed, and the camera didn't work as I expected. I now know that these glitches/problems are inherent to the the use of vintage/legacy lenses on Pentax, see for example:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/131-visitors-center/222413-please-help-kr...en-button.html
The point of this piece is to share some of the experience I have gleaned.
Here is my recently acquired (they're a bit scarce but look around and they can be found, I got this one with a lens) shiny plated M42 t-mount with PK adapter fixed in place*, alongside a standard black PK t-mount, a modded t-mount and a plated brass M42-PK adapter that I am now using on my Vivitar 90mm macro.
*
BTW you should remove the little locking spring clip on the adapter when using the PK-M42 adapter like this. I have made a wee notch to accept the k-mount lens locking pin to hold the lens in place see pic below.
In a nutshell, with a non-conducting black anodised mount such as a typical M42 or most t-mounts:
- Green button (set on Tv shift) no longer stops down (if this needs explaining to you read this ). But testing indicates a shutter speed IS set (note: K10D and K20D, for example - the green button always stops down, and other models may have their own idiosyncracies).
- There are a few early third party PK mount lenses that are anodised and non-conducting, but these are pretty rare. These would, however, be problematic to use without creating an electrical connection to the contacts on the camera mount. With t-mounts and M42, because there is no aperture lever, and therefore the iris is not held open by the camera, stop down metering in Av is the mode of choice.
- But exposures are way off - typically requiring high levels of compensation, in fact with longer focal length lenses like my 400mm Tamron Nestar or Tamron Adaptamatic 300mm I am normally maxed out at +3eV.
A lot of us use hacks/work-arounds: foil between the lens and camera mounts to short (specifically) contact 7 at the half past position, or removing the black anodising off the lens mount, as per the modded t-mount in pic.
I use a piece of foil, folded, like this it can be held in position while the lens is tightened in the mount. It doesn't seem to matter if the foil covers several contacts, just as long as the data contact is covered. The helios 44M-4 has a wide base that covers the contacts so this works well. The silver helios 44 however has a narrow M39 mount that doesn't cover the contacts. The "
copper wire trick" is an alternative method.
In any case I had been looking for one of these plated t-mounts as a nicer, more convenient and better connecting solution for my t-mount lenses. As you can see the mount only just covers (half) the contacts. This is the comparison between the two t-mounts, using a Jupiter 11A 135mm f4 as a convenient test lens, on my Kr.
mount | mode | f4 | f5.6 | f8 | f11 | f16 |
black | green button | 1/320 | 1/160 | 1/80 | 1/50 | 1/40 |
black | Av | 1/1000 | 1/500 | 1/250 | 1/125 | 1/80 |
silver | green button | 1/250 | 1/125 | 1/80 | 1/60 | 1/40 |
silver | Av | 1/250 | 1/160 | 1/80 | 1/50 | 1/30 |
You can see the difference:
My M42 mount Vivitar 90mm f2.8 produces similar results when compared mounted using a pentax original style rimless (= non-conducting) adapter and the rimmed plated conducting adapter in the pic above.
mount | mode | f2.8 | f4 | f5.6 | f8 | f11 | f16 |
rimless | green button | 1/500 | 1/400 | 1/200 | 1/100 | 1/60 | 1/125 |
rimless | Av | 1/2000 | 1/1250 | 1/800 | 1/400 | 1/160 | 1/100 |
plated | green button | 1/500 | 1/320 | 1/200 | 1/80 | 1/40 | 1/20 |
plated | Av | 1/500 | 1/400 | 1/200 | 1/100 | 1/60 | 1/30 |
To summarise:
- The exposures in M mode, and with a conducting mount in Av, were basically the same.
- The exposures in Av with a non-conducting mount were approx twice as underexposed.
- In all modes all the vintage lenses I have used require exposure compensation, normally for underexposure, which is why I prefer Av mode, with an appropriate compensation dialed in based on test shots.
And in conclusion, I can say that if it wasn't for a glitch, using conducting adapters or a foil etc hack would be a no-brainer. That glitch is "mirror flopping". Unfortunately, using these tricks tends to set off a propensity to flop. On my K-r's its not been out of hand, like some of the bad cases documented on threads here. Typically its a routine double mirror up down, the second delayed a few secs, on taking a pic. But its variable, sometimes it hardly flops at all. The viv + plated adapter, for example, seems to work particularly well. Why? Well thats the $64,000 question isn't it!
Some more relevant threads:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/120-general-technical-troubleshooting/230...g-problem.html https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/10-pentax-slr-lens-discussion/60513-quest...-m42-lens.html https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/120-general-technical-troubleshooting/241...ew-mounts.html https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/6-pentax-dslr-discussion/257018-exposure-...0mm-1-7-a.html https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/120-general-technical-troubleshooting/230...g-problem.html https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/120-general-technical-troubleshooting/247...s-k-500-a.html
Last edited by marcusBMG; 09-02-2014 at 01:46 PM.