AF issues? Technique? Bound to happen?

AF issues? Technique? Bound to happen? · 12:15 PM

If there's one thing about shooting hockey that really drives me nuts, it's when I'm trying to get net action (like the photo below) but rather than catching the players, puck, net in the foreground, the AF *too often* grabs the boards/glass/seats just behind the action.

For those of you keeping track, this is with my FA*200mm, center-point focus, continuous focus mode. It doesn't happen all of the time, but definitely more frequently then I'd like. I could say, well it's just a proximity thing - since we all know the closer we are to an object, the more precise the AF can be...BUT...if it's not that, what do you think?

I read something in my booklet that goes like this: "The focusing ring of the telephoto lens stops slightly past the <infinity> mark. This is because the temperature change causes the focusing point to shift, making the lens focus on a point past the <infinity> mark. Even when shooting at infinity, be sure the image is in focus utilizing the focus indicator before releasing the shutter."

Perhaps this is to blame?

Looking for ideas/response from others in the know - with experience. Thanks,

Rob

raz-0 · 02-10-2008, 01:06 PM

THe AF sensonrs are not as precise as you would like to imagine with regards to the red dots. They are bigger and not necessarily centered on them (the latter due to manufacturing tolerances).

Add to that that AF basically assumes that the most contrasty thing closest to the sweet spot of the sensor is what you are focusing on, and it picks out the nice sharp clean contrasty edges between the glass and the boards or the glass and the moulding.

If you want a nice sharp goalie shot, focus on where the goalie action is manually and machine gun away anytime it starts getting busy there.

Peter Zack · 02-10-2008, 01:09 PM

It's without a doubt a difficult sport to shoot. Fast moving and that darn glass. I've done it a few times to varying degrees of success. For net shooting, it gets a little easier. When the action slows down and the goalie is just standing around, focus on him in the crease. Then switch the AF off. I'd also switch the camera to manual and take a meter reading for the scene. Get a shutter speed high enough to capture the fast movement, but see how much closed down aperture you can squeeze out of the scene. You may want to shoot at ISO 800 or even 1600. Over expose the shot about + 1/2 to 1 Ev for the higher ISO's and the noise will be fine.

Set the camera to meter the scene. When the action heats up around the net, just fire away. The camera is all preset and you should have little trouble to get the shots you want. Same can go for getting a slap shot from the blue line as long as you are set up ahead of time.

For players moving up and down the ice, set the camera to AF.C and open the ens up as much as possible. Then follow the player and fire when you need to. For this you can switch to Jpeg shooting and continuous. That way you can take several fast shots in sequence.

As for the "past infinity" thing, it's common to almost all Pentax glass and many other lenses. Not an issue and shouldn't play into this situation.

Tyler · 02-10-2008, 01:14 PM

This happens to me sometimes while shooting hockey with my 70-200 2.8 but it's mostly on shots with the players coming directly at me since the AF system in the camera just can't keep up with the action. But you do get lucky some times... (horrrrrrrrible compression)

**Canada_Rockies** · 02-10-2008, 02:56 PM

As a suggestion, turn off the shutter release AF and use the AF button to focus where you want the focus to be. Then follow the action and shoot when it is at the peak. The focus will still be there for you.

So, to set up for the crease shot, focus on the front line of the crease. Set your exposure to manual to avoid underexposure caused by all that white ice. Try to stop down a stop or two to get a bit of depth of field, if the lighting in the rink allows it. Then follow the players in with shutter finger at the ready.

PS: Tyler - that's a great shot!

SouthShoreRob · 02-10-2008, 05:09 PM

Thanks guys for all the tips. Generally speaking - and if you check my website samples you will see - I do not have any difficulty when shooting hockey. My settings are tried, tested, and true. Certainly, as Tyler mentioned, you do miss shots when players just whiz by too fast for the AF to keep up, but no probs.

If you re-read my post again, you will note that I am only making specific reference to goal mouth shots. The consensus, from your responses, seems to be forget about AF and go to MF. I have done this - it works - but it is annoying. That said, if I set it up for a good ten or twelve snaps in a row, then it would be well worth it.

Perhaps it's the first reponse that tells the most. The AF just can't be 100% right, 100% of the time...no matter how fine (expensive) a lens is. Next game I'm gonna shoot up a bunch of MF goal mouth shots to see how "manageable" it is.

Thanks all.

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02-10-2008, 01:06 PM	#2
raz-0 Veteran Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Central NJ Posts: 470	THe AF sensonrs are not as precise as you would like to imagine with regards to the red dots. They are bigger and not necessarily centered on them (the latter due to manufacturing tolerances). Add to that that AF basically assumes that the most contrasty thing closest to the sweet spot of the sensor is what you are focusing on, and it picks out the nice sharp clean contrasty edges between the glass and the boards or the glass and the moulding. If you want a nice sharp goalie shot, focus on where the goalie action is manually and machine gun away anytime it starts getting busy there.

02-10-2008, 01:09 PM	#3
Peter Zack Pentaxian Moderator Emeritus Join Date: May 2007 Location: Edmonton Alberta, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 10,643	It's without a doubt a difficult sport to shoot. Fast moving and that darn glass. I've done it a few times to varying degrees of success. For net shooting, it gets a little easier. When the action slows down and the goalie is just standing around, focus on him in the crease. Then switch the AF off. I'd also switch the camera to manual and take a meter reading for the scene. Get a shutter speed high enough to capture the fast movement, but see how much closed down aperture you can squeeze out of the scene. You may want to shoot at ISO 800 or even 1600. Over expose the shot about + 1/2 to 1 Ev for the higher ISO's and the noise will be fine. Set the camera to meter the scene. When the action heats up around the net, just fire away. The camera is all preset and you should have little trouble to get the shots you want. Same can go for getting a slap shot from the blue line as long as you are set up ahead of time. For players moving up and down the ice, set the camera to AF.C and open the ens up as much as possible. Then follow the player and fire when you need to. For this you can switch to Jpeg shooting and continuous. That way you can take several fast shots in sequence. As for the "past infinity" thing, it's common to almost all Pentax glass and many other lenses. Not an issue and shouldn't play into this situation.

02-10-2008, 01:14 PM	#4
Tyler Inactive Account Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: 3rd rock from the sun Photos: Gallery Posts: 478	This happens to me sometimes while shooting hockey with my 70-200 2.8 but it's mostly on shots with the players coming directly at me since the AF system in the camera just can't keep up with the action. But you do get lucky some times... (horrrrrrrrible compression)

02-10-2008, 02:56 PM	#5
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	As a suggestion, turn off the shutter release AF and use the AF button to focus where you want the focus to be. Then follow the action and shoot when it is at the peak. The focus will still be there for you. So, to set up for the crease shot, focus on the front line of the crease. Set your exposure to manual to avoid underexposure caused by all that white ice. Try to stop down a stop or two to get a bit of depth of field, if the lighting in the rink allows it. Then follow the players in with shutter finger at the ready. PS: Tyler - that's a great shot!

02-10-2008, 05:09 PM	#6
SouthShoreRob Guest	Thanks guys for all the tips. Generally speaking - and if you check my website samples you will see - I do not have any difficulty when shooting hockey. My settings are tried, tested, and true. Certainly, as Tyler mentioned, you do miss shots when players just whiz by too fast for the AF to keep up, but no probs. If you re-read my post again, you will note that I am only making specific reference to goal mouth shots. The consensus, from your responses, seems to be forget about AF and go to MF. I have done this - it works - but it is annoying. That said, if I set it up for a good ten or twelve snaps in a row, then it would be well worth it. Perhaps it's the first reponse that tells the most. The AF just can't be 100% right, 100% of the time...no matter how fine (expensive) a lens is. Next game I'm gonna shoot up a bunch of MF goal mouth shots to see how "manageable" it is. Thanks all.