I just got the negatives back for these. Shot this summer.
Looks like there is a bit of stain on them. Not quite sure what it is.
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks,
d

[eagle1]

Nice! You may want to try yellow or orange filters, even red to give them some pop.

[tuco]

Looks like a couple of problems. One is density streaks from uneven development. The spots on #3 is hard to say without seeing the negatives. But you can spot heal those out in post.

[Michael Piziak]

Nice photos!

I played around with the 3rd one in Gimp, hope you don't mind, just to see what I could do. I'm not that good with post processing, and I'm sure you could do better.

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Last edited by Michael Piziak; 02-14-2014 at 09:28 AM.

[dermc]

Nice! You may want to try yellow or orange filters, even red to give them some pop.

Thinks, I'll give the LR presets a try.

Looks like a couple of problems. One is density streaks from uneven development. The spots on #3 is hard to say without seeing the negatives. But you can spot heal those out in post.

I have a friend that develops my film. I wasn't sure if that was a develop issue or camera light leak.

Nice photos!

I played around with the 3rd one in Gimp, hope you don't mind, just to see what I could do. I'm not that good with post processing, and I'm sure you could do better.

Thanks. I don't mind at all. I'll clone out with PS.

Thanks all,
d

[tuco]

Thinks, I'll give the LR presets a try.

This is BW film! Use actual yellow and orange filters on the lens.

I have a friend that develops my film. I wasn't sure if that was a develop issue or camera light leak.

Thanks. I don't mind at all. I'll clone out with PS.

Thanks all,

Scanning BW film means going in Photoshop or whatever and cleaning dust specs. Blowing them clean as you can helps.

A good agitation profile usually resolves density streaking. And stand development in Rodinal can cause uneven development on 120 roll film.

[dermc]

This is BW film! Use actual yellow and orange filters on the lens.

Ya. Filters on the day would be ideal… but LR can fakes them pretty well..

thanks
d

[tuco]

Ya. Filters on the day would be ideal… but LR can fakes them pretty well..

thanks
d

Software filters need color to change the represented tone of the gray scale. This is BW film. The software does not know the difference between the gray tone of the blue sky from the gray tone of, say, red clothing. It is not even close to what a filter would do on the lens.

[dermc]

Time to hunt ebay for filters..
Any suggestions?
d

[tuco]

Look for used Pentax filters if you can. Look on Amazon too. I'd get a yellow and an orange filter for starters. Colored filters do not change tone as drastically as software filters in digital, in general. Yellow is a good general purpose filter with only one stop of film speed penalty. Orange can cost you a couple of stops depending how "orange" it is. Orange will darken blue sky more than a yellow. And the bluer, less polluted the sky is the darker it will get.

Color filters darken their opposite color and lighten their color with varying degrees for colors in between.

[daacon]

Those first couple sure give a feeling of lonesomeness.

[dermc]

Tuco, Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look for those.

Thanks Dave,
Both locations are fairly remote but accessible. The first is Cape Spear NL and the second is Ferryland NL.
thanks,
d

[fretlessdavis]

Be sure to check out KEH and eBay as well.

I've got 52mm Hoya and Tiffen Yellow, Green, and Orange for sale in the forums (need bigger filters for my ETRS, they're probably too small for a 645)

But yeah, to reflect what TUco said, filters help a lot. It takes some practice to figure out what colors will do well in which situations, but it's helpful to spot meter through them at different tones in the scene. Contrary to what I thought/read before, I now use a green filter in the SW with film to help darken the nice red sandstone. I'll usually have to burn the sky in while printing to keep it from going totally white, but it helps the tonality in the rocks/ground out here. Red makes for a nice dramatic effect, but it's easy to overdo, and out here it can make the nice tones in the rock a uniform grey...

A good kit to start with would be Yellow, Red, Green, with orange less of a priority. If you can find a scene with lots of varied colors, try bracketing with all your filters to get the feel for what they can do.

Also, keep in mind, filter factors are only a guide. Once you get the hang of what the filters can do, you can estimate the effects and expose for your shadows with detail (zone III). Also, a 25A (red) filter has tricked most of my in-camera meters... It's a bit dark to focus through with slower lenses, so I'll usually meter off a nice darker/shadowy green and then add 2.5 stops (FF of my red filter)