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So, help me understand how to take better macro shots with the equipment listed.
Posted By: dappercorpmonkey, 05-20-2014, 03:46 PM

Here's what I have.
K-5, DFA 100mm Macro, a p=ttl flash, a cheap led ring flash, 3 cheap extension tubes and the Prospec 2x Tele-Converter. I am thinking about getting magic arm, oh i have a p-ttl 3ft poloroid flash extension cable and a diffuser for the flash too.

I have to be honest I dont know how to use the extension tubes, and I am afraid ill kill sharpness with the teleconverter (my only real experience with it was a short lived experiment using a M 200mm f4). I tried the teleconverter with an otherwise sharp 200mm out the world and the photos were terribly unsharp. though in retrospec I was using catch in focus to try and shoot birds in motion with no flash, which I would love to do, but I can never seem to get great shots of.

Anyway back to macro, I want to get closer than the shots I have attached and still have great sharpness. How should I go about it.

I have a sigma 28mm f1.7 macro and 18-50 f2.8 macro as well but I figure the best macro lens I have is the DFA 100mm.

Suggestions please.

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05-23-2014, 09:50 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by old4570 Quote
Hmmm , rig listed should take fantastic photos ...

Practice practice and more practice ...

1/ Let there be light .
You need to get light , at the angle you want , onto the subject you are photographing .. There are lots of ways of doing this , check out youtube ....

2/ Aperture .
The closer you get to your subject , the less depth of field you have , so you need a smaller aperture setting ( higher F stop ) , how high will your lens go . ( aim for the highest possible F stop )

3/ Shutter speed
You must maintain a decent shutter speed OR be seriously steady ( tripod steady )

4/ How close do you want to get ?
1:1 is rather good , but for those insane in your face shots you need better than 1:1 , and possibly a bigger lens .
A decent Macro teleconverter might be on the cards .. A good one will not rob you of much quality , but a poor one will !
I have a few myself , and they really help expand your options .
Or get one of those lens adapters that reverses a lens ( backwards ) , buy a cheap lens ( still decent ) , to use as a dedicated backward lens .
So many options , so many ways of doing it ( Macro ) , you just need find what works for you .
I am definitely going to bring out the tripod this weekend to try a fews shots. With the extension tubes and the ring light it gets heavy in a hurry.

I am very interested in this idea of a second lens in reverse to get super close shots. How would this work with say the DFA 100mm and the Sigma 28 f1.7 macro? How would you focus? I imagine it has to be done on the backwards lens because the DFA extrudes quite a bit when focusing. I would also need some kind of step up rings or something, I dont remember off hand but I think the DFA is 49mm and the 28 is 67mm front glass. Does anyone have a set up like this?

05-23-2014, 10:35 AM   #17
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A tripod won't help with subject motion. For a flower waving in the breeze or an insect, you need a fast shutter speed. For decent DOF, you need a small aperture. For these two to get along, you need lots of light, and/or you need to bump the ISO. Juggling these appropriately takes experience.

The Sigmas are not true macro lenses, it's just a marketing term that Sigma likes to use. The D FA 100mm is by far your best choice. I suggest you keep working with it until you are getting the results you want before getting into extreme macro. If you get a good shot, you can crop it to get more magnification.

Going beyond 1:1 makes everything much tougher. This site is a great resource: Extreme Macro Photography
05-23-2014, 10:57 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
A tripod won't help with subject motion. For a flower waving in the breeze or an insect, you need a fast shutter speed. For decent DOF, you need a small aperture. For these two to get along, you need lots of light, and/or you need to bump the ISO. Juggling these appropriately takes experience.

The Sigmas are not true macro lenses, it's just a marketing term that Sigma likes to use. The D FA 100mm is by far your best choice. I suggest you keep working with it until you are getting the results you want before getting into extreme macro. If you get a good shot, you can crop it to get more magnification.

Going beyond 1:1 makes everything much tougher. This site is a great resource: Extreme Macro Photography
Thanks.
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