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Any flash will do the job , as long as light reaches the POF ( Point Of Focus )
One of the nicest stock flashes I have used is the AF-200FG that came with my K50 .. It works a treat ..


If you wish to get a little more creative : ( Many keep asking about my set up )


Here are the parts to my Macro flash rig ( Ebay links )





The bracket to put everything on : ( C shaped )


C Shape 2 Hot Shoe Dual Bracket Stand for LED Video Light Flash Camcorder Camera | eBay


Swivel Mini Bracket :


360° Swivel Mini Bracket Ballhead Stand 1 4" Screw for Camera Tripod Convenient | eBay


The Flash : ( Cheap and low voltage trigger )


CY 20 Universal Hot Shoe Camera Electronic Flash for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus | eBay


Hot Shoe adapter : ( might want to order two just in case )


Hotshoe Flash Adapter Remote Control Receiver F Canon to Nikon Flash PC Socket | eBay


Sync chord : ( Might want two )


12" 12 inch 2 5mm Plug to Male Flash PC Sync Cord Cable | eBay




I think that's it for what I use ..
Your only limitation toward a Macro flash solution is your imagination .. The possibilities are endless .

[mixberry]

When i see your spider, i wonder why, the light so hard and i know it, i suggest you to use diffuser, make the light more softer, but not reduce the detail like this
I use K5II+ pentax F 35-70 macro + filter +1+2+3 and pop up diffuser lens + internal flash

[old4570]

This spider : Yes a little harsh .. But such is life when photographing a white spider ... ( Transparent as well )
Better slightly harsh than too soft .. But that's apples and oranges ...
And I admit to being a little lazy , I could have eased off on the gamma - but I was lazy !

And I run what I run for a reason :
( Part 2 of my Macro guide )

[UncleVanya]

Add a Gary Fong lightsphere if harsh lighting is an issue.

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Last edited by UncleVanya; 01-05-2015 at 07:22 AM.

[pixelated]

Thank you for taking the time to include links for parts! I am just getting started with video lighting, and the description of your setup is most helpful!

[UncleVanya]

And I run what I run for a reason :
( Part 2 of my Macro guide )

Was this supposed to link to another thread?

[arkav]

Thanks for starting this thread, and for sharing your experience and knowledge! Please forgive me if some of my questions are dumb - I'm very flash-ignorant.

One of the nicest stock flashes I have used is the AF-200FG that came with my K50 .. It works a treat ..

Are you suggesting using this flash for macro mounted on the camera hot shoe, or off camera? Your rigs seem to mostly have the flash mounted off-camera.
The rig you've posted above shows the sync cord connected directly to the flash. I just looked up the 200FG in the reviews section, and it doesn't appear to have a sync input.
The reviews are favourable, but if I get one, I'd like to have the flexibility to use it both on-camera and off.

Hot Shoe adapter : ( might want to order two just in case )

Hotshoe Flash Adapter Remote Control Receiver F Canon to Nikon Flash PC Socket | eBay

Ok, I think I follow. Is there an adapter that mounts the flash onto the swivel bracket?

Also, if you connect a flash using a PC cable, do you lose P-TTL capability?

As far as using my imagination goes, I looked through my photographic "junk box", and found an old Sunpack auto124 flash. It occurs to me that with it tilted over horizontally, it
has a very low profile, and would lend itself well to use with a diy extender/diffuser to channel the light up to the POF. But my guess is that the trigger voltage on this
thing is unsafe, and it would be expensive to get an adapter that would allow it to be safely used on-camera. But for "studio" work like photographing specimens, maybe it
could be used off-camera with one of these:

Flash Hot Shoe Adapter Remote Controller Slave Trigger for Pentax Nissin SYK 3 | eBay

Rather than having a cumbersome on-camera rig for specimen work, it might be simpler to have a "stage" setup with it's own flash/diffuser.

On a bit of a tangent, has anyone considered picking up one of the *ist models that have true TTL flash capability? Only 6M sensor, but still...

Cheers, R

[BrianR]

Simple PC cable kills p-ttl. You can get p-ttl cables for more money. Auto exposure for a setup like this isn't really necessary though, you pretty much know where the subject is going to be in relation to the flash so you can set the exposure before you go chasing spiders.

I'd suggest simple radio triggers as an option over pc cables. Get a set that can handle high voltages so you can make use of your old flash from the get go (a slave trigger can work too though). They'll cost more than cables, but the flexibility is worth it, especially if you want to use the flash furthur from camera. ymmv of course.

For non-moving 'specimens' you can also use standard desk lamps and a sturdy tripod. Working with continuous lights can be easier at the start since you get real time feedback when you re-position the lights.

[arkav]

Simple PC cable kills p-ttl. You can get p-ttl cables for more money. Auto exposure for a setup like this isn't really necessary though, you pretty much know where the subject is going to be in relation to the flash so you can set the exposure before you go chasing spiders.

Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking it might be nice in some circumstances to use some ambient light, and just use the flash for fill.

I'd suggest simple radio triggers as an option over pc cables. Get a set that can handle high voltages so you can make use of your old flash from the get go (a slave trigger can work too though). They'll cost more than cables, but the flexibility is worth it, especially if you want to use the flash furthur from camera. ymmv of course

I guess the trick would be knowing whether or not a particular radio trigger can handle the voltage. Might be cheaper to just get a low voltage trigger flash.

For non-moving 'specimens' you can also use standard desk lamps and a sturdy tripod. Working with continuous lights can be easier at the start since you get real time feedback when you re-position the lights.

I was thinking of something very portable, for doing photographs when visiting a collection on a short term basis. Carrying in several desk lamps + tripod could be cumbersome in some circumstances.

[UncleVanya]

Depending on your flash you could also use Wireless P-TTL and trigger using the onboard flash. Place the flash near the subject but separate from the camera sensor facing the camera... and maybe just maybe it will work. Wireless manual flash may also work this way - optically triggered I mean.

[old4570]

Thanks for starting this thread, and for sharing your experience and knowledge! Please forgive me if some of my questions are dumb - I'm very flash-ignorant.



Are you suggesting using this flash for macro mounted on the camera hot shoe, or off camera? Your rigs seem to mostly have the flash mounted off-camera.
The rig you've posted above shows the sync cord connected directly to the flash. I just looked up the 200FG in the reviews section, and it doesn't appear to have a sync input.
The reviews are favourable, but if I get one, I'd like to have the flexibility to use it both on-camera and off.
200FG goes on hot shoe .... Why make it complicated if it works ?



Ok, I think I follow. Is there an adapter that mounts the flash onto the swivel bracket?
The C bracket comes with two of them , if mem serves

Also, if you connect a flash using a PC cable, do you lose P-TTL capability? Yes
You can get P-TTL chord with P-TTL hot shoe for remote mounting ..

As far as using my imagination goes, I looked through my photographic "junk box", and found an old Sunpack auto124 flash. It occurs to me that with it tilted over horizontally, it
has a very low profile, and would lend itself well to use with a diy extender/diffuser to channel the light up to the POF. But my guess is that the trigger voltage on this
thing is unsafe, and it would be expensive to get an adapter that would allow it to be safely used on-camera. But for "studio" work like photographing specimens, maybe it
could be used off-camera with one of these:
I have the same flash , its a wonderful flash .. Used it last night

Flash Hot Shoe Adapter Remote Controller Slave Trigger for Pentax Nissin SYK 3 | eBay Yes it could/should work

Rather than having a cumbersome on-camera rig for specimen work, it might be simpler to have a "stage" setup with it's own flash/diffuser. ? I don't know about that ? Try it . Mine is the way it is because it meets my needs

On a bit of a tangent, has anyone considered picking up one of the *ist models that have true TTL flash capability? Only 6M sensor, but still...
What about the K100D ???

Cheers, R

Please I just posted this as an example , it works for me and does what I want it to ..
It is designed to make me happy and no one else ..
Posted for information purposes and to shake up the grey cells a little

---------- Post added 01-06-15 at 10:19 AM ----------

Was this supposed to link to another thread?

No , part two has not made it to print as yet , still rattling around in my brain ...
So so many ways to flash , I know how Im going to start , the information I want to pass one , but just how far to cast the net ?
Everyone has there own idea and I cant possibly cover everything , so most likely the basics and to show some novel ideas and stir the grey matter a little ..

[arkav]

200FG goes on hot shoe .... Why make it complicated if it works ?

I was just wondering if it could be used both ways - in case there were circumstances where I need to move it off camera to get it closer to the POF. It would
be nice if one flash could do 2 jobs. I guess maybe there's an adapter that takes the PC cable that can trigger the 200FG on eBay somewhere.

The C bracket comes with two of them , if mem serves

Ok. Great.

I have the same flash , its a wonderful flash .. Used it last night

Oh, I was under the impression that this old flash had a high trigger voltage that might damage a DSLR.

What about the K100D ???

According to information on the website, that one only supports P-TTL, not true TTL flash.

Please I just posted this as an example , it works for me and does what I want it to ..
It is designed to make me happy and no one else ..
Posted for information purposes and to shake up the grey cells a little

I know, I was just hoping to get your thoughts on a few things, since you know much more about this than
I do. I've looked at the components you've recommended, and will probably order them.

thanks again

[old4570]

I was just wondering if it could be used both ways - in case there were circumstances where I need to move it off camera to get it closer to the POF. It would
be nice if one flash could do 2 jobs. I guess maybe there's an adapter that takes the PC cable that can trigger the 200FG on eBay somewhere.

There is a cheap bounce flash that will trigger without cabling ( YN 460 ) Just put it in slave mode and it will fire when your on board flash fires ..



Ok. Great.



Oh, I was under the impression that this old flash had a high trigger voltage that might damage a DSLR. I don't know ??? Maybe , I have been using mine for 2 years now .. On Pentax , Canon , Nikon ???????????????????



According to information on the website, that one only supports P-TTL, not true TTL flash. OK



I know, I was just hoping to get your thoughts on a few things, since you know much more about this than
I do. I've looked at the components you've recommended, and will probably order them.
Noooooooooo ! Im no flash expert , there are a lot more knowledgeable people on this forum than me when it comes to flash , I only know what I need to know .

thanks again

In regards to the AF 200FG , it depends on the lens you use and the POINT OF FOCUS .. As long as the lens does not BLOCK the flash because the POF is so close to the face of the lens ..
You can also try a diffuser to soften and direct the light :
I would try a hot shoe mounted flash like the AF 200 , and only when it fails to deliver worry about doing it differently ..
Sunpack auto124 flash = If you feel its a risk , don't use it .. Simple as that ..
I used mine on my istD istDS K100D exclusively ... As well as a flash of convenience on my Canon and Nikon .. ( But don't worry about what I do )




Sunpak Auto 124


Trigger voltage: 180 volt.

[BrianR]

I guess the trick would be knowing whether or not a particular radio trigger can handle the voltage. Might be cheaper to just get a low voltage trigger flash.

I recommend triggers as an option in any case, just mentioning high voltage as something to look for if you go this route and might use high voltage flashes. Triggers that are high voltage capable will usually mention this, or reviews will.

Oh, I was under the impression that this old flash had a high trigger voltage that might damage a DSLR.

How to check to be sure: Checking trigger voltage | DPanswers

[old4570]

Quoted from dpanswers.com :

Pentax

Karl Schumacher sent me this message about Pentax DSLRs:

Pentax (Germany) has informed me that the maximum voltage for Pentax DSLRs *istD and *istDS is 30 volts and the maximum safe voltage for the K-series is 25 volts.


by Gisle Hannemyr

---------- Post added 01-06-15 at 11:35 PM ----------

There you Go .. Canon 40D and Nikon can handle it fine ..
Pentax No .. Risky business ...