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My first macro
Posted By: naldopr, 11-10-2015, 09:41 AM

Well I have been practicing a little bit with my new k3 and 100mm 2.8 lens this photos loose a lot of details after I downloaded to my Facebook need to know a better way to keep the image as is in the cam? Still learning thanks guys




https://flic.kr/p/ARkBZ3
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11-10-2015, 09:57 AM   #2
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Not bad at all for your first attempt...except this shot is pretty disgusting :P
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57509396@N03/22469574577/in/album-72157661003429335/

I have always found that lighting is the number one key to success when it comes to macro. What are you doing in that regard?
11-10-2015, 10:29 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by cali92rs Quote
Not bad at all for your first attempt...except this shot is pretty disgusting :P
https://www.flickr.com/photos/57509396@N03/22469574577/in/album-72157661003429335/

I have always found that lighting is the number one key to success when it comes to macro. What are you doing in that regard?
Lol thank you
Well I have been using only the camera flash I'm thinking in buying a ring flash from eBay or the Venus flash.
Any suggestion?
11-10-2015, 10:39 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by naldopr Quote
Lol thank you
Well I have been using only the camera flash I'm thinking in buying a ring flash from eBay or the Venus flash.
Any suggestion?
Ring flashes are ok, but arent very flexible...sometimes you want the flash to come in at different angles or distances.
I use a setup similar to this and have had good results:
Hand-Held Flash Macro Photography | NatureScapes.Net – The Resource for Nature Photographers

I like this setup because you dont need an expensive flash because it will be manual, and doesnt need to be very powerful because it is relatively close to the subject

11-10-2015, 11:33 AM   #5
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I read the link to the article - thanks for that! I do wonder about the emphasis on manual exposure, though. My macro lens is the M 100/4, so I would be in manual because that is the only way I can get the lens stopped down for the exposure. I am thinking however, that TAv might be a better way to go, with a slight (-0.7 EV) offset for the lens exposure. I can try the technique with the DA 55-300 at closest distance and see if it works. This won't be true macro, but should be good enough with the K3, combined with cropping, to get butterflies and the like, or my favourite nemesis, dragonflies. It is too late for the season here, but I can certainly check out the exposures on static subjects.
11-10-2015, 11:47 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
I read the link to the article - thanks for that! I do wonder about the emphasis on manual exposure, though. My macro lens is the M 100/4, so I would be in manual because that is the only way I can get the lens stopped down for the exposure. I am thinking however, that TAv might be a better way to go, with a slight (-0.7 EV) offset for the lens exposure. I can try the technique with the DA 55-300 at closest distance and see if it works. This won't be true macro, but should be good enough with the K3, combined with cropping, to get butterflies and the like, or my favourite nemesis, dragonflies. It is too late for the season here, but I can certainly check out the exposures on static subjects.
I think the emphasis on manual exposure because the idea is to set your sync speed to max (1/180 s), to your desired aperture (i usually use f16-f20), and base ISO...then vary the flash power to expose your subject.
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