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I bought a new ND Filter the other day and had a go at trying some long exposures in day time. I now realise I did a rookie mistake and left the Image Stabilization on! In the K-50 I take it this function is located at Menu 3 > Shake Reduction ? I've never had to really take it off before...

Another thing that I thought about, with wind and such affecting trees/reeds movement, and 15 sec exposures, is it possible to do a 'stack' photo and post process? That is... take two pictures, one quick exposure 1/500sec etc, the other long (15secs) and then stack in PS and leave only then edit to reveal the blurry aspect that you want and leave the other details sharp and 'nonmovey' lol?

I've done stacked before when doing levitation work etc, just never for long exposures...

[Tas]

Nice work for your first efforts there mate.

Using layer masking you can combine anything really, it's a matter of having the software and the skills to make the most of what you're trying to achieve. Of course the main thing to remember is to ensure the final image remains natural looking and in this case the masking should be releatively easy due to the difference between the water and the grass/trees.

What you might like to consider though is zooming in on some details like the reeds in the foreground with the water, creating a mono image and exploiting the unreal look of motion in the reeds, with comparitively calm water. You could create something really special, with colour, washed out colours or high key B&W. You can add textures too and each of these versions could be good in their own right, or framed as a group showing different interpretations of the one scene. With good images as your start point, there's a lot of options for creation in post, and the beauty of it all is it's your image and you get to create what you want.

A quick question, did you block the optical viewfinder during the long exposures?

Tas

[BruceBanner]

Nice work for your first efforts there mate.

Using layer masking you can combine anything really, it's a matter of having the software and the skills to make the most of what you're trying to achieve. Of course the main thing to remember is to ensure the final image remains natural looking and in this case the masking should be releatively easy due to the difference between the water and the grass/trees.

What you might like to consider though is zooming in on some details like the reeds in the foreground with the water, creating a mono image and exploiting the unreal look of motion in the reeds, with comparitively calm water. You could create something really special, with colour, washed out colours or high key B&W. You can add textures too and each of these versions could be good in their own right, or framed as a group showing different interpretations of the one scene. With good images as your start point, there's a lot of options for creation in post, and the beauty of it all is it's your image and you get to create what you want.

A quick question, did you block the optical viewfinder during the long exposures?

Tas

Thanks for the feedback!

Yeh, I was a bit short on time, next time I aim to do just that. There was a couple of spots around the lagoon that I thought would be good for long exposures like what yer saying, but actually the water was very still anyway and so not much changed, infact it got worse due to the image stabilisation on with tripod! (doh!).

The ND filter currently only fixes to my stock lens and 50mm 1.8, I also have a 100mm 2.8 Macro lens but need an adapter to work for that.

Yes, I did cover the view finder. I am waiting on this to arrive Pentax Rear Viewfinder Cap I assume it works well with the K-50. If it becomes one of those items that requires me to remove the rubber seal around the K-50 to put this on instead then that might be a PIA. I might just keep carrying a roll of black cloth tape around with me

[Tas]

Thanks for the feedback!

Yeh, I was a bit short on time, next time I aim to do just that. There was a couple of spots around the lagoon that I thought would be good for long exposures like what yer saying, but actually the water was very still anyway and so not much changed, infact it got worse due to the image stabilisation on with tripod! (doh!).

The ND filter currently only fixes to my stock lens and 50mm 1.8, I also have a 100mm 2.8 Macro lens but need an adapter to work for that.

Yes, I did cover the view finder. I am waiting on this to arrive Pentax Rear Viewfinder Cap I assume it works well with the K-50. If it becomes one of those items that requires me to remove the rubber seal around the K-50 to put this on instead then that might be a PIA. I might just keep carrying a roll of black cloth tape around with me

Yes, I guess this technique is normally used on the coast, with running rivers or for clouds, but some good compositions on the lake will give you some kewl images too. Andy why do what everyone else does?

It's interesting that you didn't get the viewfinder cap in the box with the camera all my Pentax cameras came with that cap, but then maybe they only put them in with certain models. You do have to take the rubber eyepiece off to fit it. I often just place my thumb over the viewfinder, but then I'm a bit slack.

Tas

[BruceBanner]

Yes, I guess this technique is normally used on the coast, with running rivers or for clouds, but some good compositions on the lake will give you some kewl images too. Andy why do what everyone else does?

It's interesting that you didn't get the viewfinder cap in the box with the camera all my Pentax cameras came with that cap, but then maybe they only put them in with certain models. You do have to take the rubber eyepiece off to fit it. I often just place my thumb over the viewfinder, but then I'm a bit slack.

Tas

I checked my manual for 'contents in the box' and def no viewfindercap was there