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Northern Pygmy Owl
Posted By: bertwert, 12-31-2016, 09:02 AM

I've already shared this image but it's my best photo this last year.
Had some trouble shooting the photo as it was dusk so quite dark and the owl wasn't that close.
That's why I;m currently rambling (in another thread) about a better lens than the kitt 50-200.
Mr Owl here wouldn't look at me very often so it was about speed, with a lowish shutter speed and handheld...

Enjoy it!


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01-02-2017, 05:09 PM   #16
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Nice shot! I love these little guys, especially their alpha code of "NOPO". Do you have the option to shoot at ISO 1100?

01-02-2017, 05:15 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kameko Quote
Nice shot! I love these little guys, especially their alpha code of "NOPO". Do you have the option to shoot at ISO 1100?
Thanks! I had to look up what you meant by NOPO.
I believe I can shoot at 1100 if I set sensitivity to same as EV steps and EV steps to 1/2. AS it is I have ISO as full steps (100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 etc..) but today I've done some auto-ISO shooting for the first time which uses 1/3 and 1/2 steps so can therefore reach 1100.
Why do you ask?
01-02-2017, 07:00 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kameko Quote
Nice shot! I love these little guys, especially their alpha code of "NOPO". Do you have the option to shoot at ISO 1100?
amro
cach
noca
noma

I love codes!

---------- Post added 01-02-17 at 09:01 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by bertwert Quote
I believe I can shoot at 1100 if I set sensitivity to same as EV steps and EV steps to 1/2. AS it is I have ISO as full steps (100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 etc..) but today I've done some auto-ISO shooting for the first time which uses 1/3 and 1/2 steps so can therefore reach 1100. Why do you ask?
I do 1/3rd steps for everything... i don't know if there if the quality difference in third stop isos is proportional to 1/3, but i like the control
01-02-2017, 08:26 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by bertwert Quote
I'll have to learn how to use post processing.
Think of it this way: judicious use of a quality noise reduction program can increase your "usable ISO" by a stop.

QuoteQuote:
Ya this is the entire frame...
Wow, you were close. Good job of spying and shooting.

01-02-2017, 08:35 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by luftfluss Quote
Think of it this way: judicious use of a quality noise reduction program can increase your "usable ISO" by a stop.
Well, I better start learning
QuoteOriginally posted by luftfluss Quote
Wow, you were close. Good job of spying and shooting.
Not really it landed literally 10ft from the door of the house.
Just had to open and shoot.
01-02-2017, 09:11 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by bertwert Quote
I've never had any luck with PP in SilkyPix (provided software) so I just leave it. Maybe I should look into this more.
QuoteOriginally posted by bertwert Quote
Never used a flash at all... should look into this... maybe?
Yes to both.

Most people use Lightroom, but I like DxO Optics Pro. It's easy to use but has a good range of tools. Once you get settings that you like, you can save them as a Preset - e.g. I've got one for birds and one for plants. Presets make it quicker, even if you tweak further. DxO OP has a nice function called ClearView, which is great (in moderation) for wildlife, and it is noted for the quality of its PRIME noise reduction feature. It has been on sale recently. But there are plenty of others that will do the same kinds of things. Download trial versions of a couple of programs and see which one you like.

Flash makes a lot of difference in dull conditions. I like the Rogue Safari with the popup flash on the K-3 as a cheap lightweight weatherproof portable option: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/22-pentax-camera-field-accessories/256288...-extender.html I've posted some examples there taken with the 55-300. I'll post some more taken with the FA*300 eventually.

BTW, I haven't posted in your other thread, but I'd agree with the suggestions for one of the 55-300 variants as an affordable option. I'd actually say that rather than splurge on a premium lens like the DA*300, with a modest budget you would get more bang for buck with a second-hand 55-300 and a used K-3. Having gone from a K-30, the K-3 was a big improvement for wildlife in various ways. AF is faster, quieter and more accurate; metering is better; the extra pixels are great for cropping; shutter is quiet (the K-30 sometimes scared the birds!), and it has much greater all-round durability and robustness (to mention just a few things). The changeover cost from the K-50 would not be huge, but will increase the longer you leave it. The 55-300 (even the humble DA-L version I have) performs much better on the K-3 than on the K-30.

If you inherit from a rich relative later, you can then add some premium lenses.
01-02-2017, 09:45 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Des Quote
BTW, I haven't posted in your other thread, but I'd agree with the suggestions for one of the 55-300 variants as an affordable option. I'd actually say that rather than splurge on a premium lens like the DA*300, with a modest budget you would get more bang for buck with a second-hand 55-300 and a used K-3. Having gone from a K-30, the K-3 was a big improvement for wildlife in various ways. AF is faster, quieter and more accurate; metering is better; the extra pixels are great for cropping; shutter is quiet (the K-30 sometimes scared the birds!), and it has much greater all-round durability and robustness (to mention just a few things). The changeover cost from the K-50 would not be huge, but will increase the longer you leave it. The 55-300 (even the humble DA-L version I have) performs much better on the K-3 than on the K-30.
I'll probably end up with a 55-300 but it never occurred to me to upgrade to a K-3 really...

QuoteOriginally posted by Des Quote
Flash makes a lot of difference in dull conditions. I like the Rogue Safari with the popup flash on the K-3 as a cheap lightweight weatherproof portable option: Rogue Safari Flash Extender I've posted some examples there taken with the 55-300. I'll post some more taken with the FA*300 eventually.
Thanks for the suggestion!
01-03-2017, 10:45 PM - 1 Like   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by bertwert Quote
Thanks! I had to look up what you meant by NOPO.
I believe I can shoot at 1100 if I set sensitivity to same as EV steps and EV steps to 1/2. AS it is I have ISO as full steps (100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 etc..) but today I've done some auto-ISO shooting for the first time which uses 1/3 and 1/2 steps so can therefore reach 1100.
Why do you ask?
I was asking because if you increased your ISO to 1100, I doubt you'd see much noise and it'd be better exposed. Depending on what photo editing software you're using, try playing with the curves tool. It can help a lot with brightness, contrast, etc...

01-04-2017, 12:33 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kameko Quote
I was asking because if you increased your ISO to 1100, I doubt you'd see much noise and it'd be better exposed. Depending on what photo editing software you're using, try playing with the curves tool. It can help a lot with brightness, contrast, etc...
Makes sense.

Can't seem to see any curves tool but I'll keep looking...
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