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South Africa, - the area - Kruger NP and West Coast
Posted By: traveler57, 07-19-2019, 06:10 AM

East and West side - SA 2019
"Do you really only know this one country as a holiday destination", - the tenor in our family and friends, when we told of our travel intentions.

Three years in a row and now for the fifth time to South Africa.
This also happened to us in our planning phase in the months of April and May of this year(2018) - is not that much of a good thing.
After returning from this year's tour, was there a big one? in the room, as far as planning for 2019 was concerned.
Started by some nice talks with South Africans, who had recommended us so much to Botswana, we looked around there.
First looked at the climate chart and already it was clear, for our travel time, late January - late Feb. really not ideal.
Next country on our travel list,-
a few years ago, our daughter / son-in-law were in Tanzania, Kilimanjaro, Serengeti ect.
A private tour.
An offer received by the same agency for 14 days .... of which 10 nights in the Serengeti with the Ngorongoro Crater in the comfort class, without trekking on the mountain.
It came out around $ 1000 a day, - for 2 pers. (Accommodation / entrance / driver / car and airport transfer)
We do not want to make any concessions on the stay days, otherwise the journey is not worthwhile.
We love nature and travel, but that's too expensive for us.
Because there would be additional costs for the second 14 days .....

For Namibia and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park / SA we were already too late, as some accommodations,
which we had favored, were booked.
A trip to Asian countries? - very fast was clear, not at the moment.

So again South Africa?
Yeah, after careful consideration, it will be a journey, that covers our natural preferences with 16 days and the other time, it will be on the West Coast, above Cape Town (New Land) - back to Somerset West and the last days we will spend in Cape Town.

The region has the advantage that we will meet our Cape Town friends (who visited us in September in Germany), the wine country is quite close and Cape Town, is always worth seeing.

The pictorial representation of the journey, together with the accommodations:



Part 1:





Part 2 :




Procedure and accommodation in chronological order: - Arrival Johannesburg O'Trambo, continue .....
- Kruger View Chalet 1 N
- Biyamiti Bushveld Camp 3 N
- Lower Sabie Restcamp 3 N
- Satara Restcamp 2 N
- Pungwe Bush Camp / Manyleti 3 N
- Letaba 1 N
- Mopani Restcamp 3 N
- Johannesburg Sunrock / Kempton Park
- Flight to Cape Town - Continue to St. Helena Bay - Mussel Crack B & B 3 N
- Somerset West - 42 on sandstone guest house 4 N
- Cape Town - Beluga of Constatin Guest House 3 N

- return flight


-------------------------------------------------------------------

Traveling on "beaten" paths in South Africa .....


Therefore, there are not many new findings in this travel report, at least as far as the first part is concerned.
The route is card-technically deposited above and was respected until the way back to Joburg, so too.
It is and was just the Kruger, or the Greater Kruger, which we visited in the first days and so it can go ...

The "Suid-Afrikaners" is terug.Full one-eyed indrukke,
boomy, oppressive, ravaging en knus,
what vanjaar se rice.
How wil inkom en ry ......

Afrikaans we can not "yet", as helped a Translater, but some chunks we understand every now and then.

The "South Africans" are back.
Full of endless impressions, fascinating, exciting, surprising and cozy,
was this year's trip.
Who wants to get in and drive ......

Four weeks do not pass by one / us without a trace.
The multitude of encounters with all his topics still has to be sorted, but with the first half, you can start.

So whoever is in the mood for bushland, animals and encounters, jumps up or makes himself comfortable in a chair and experiences a fascinating world, in the eastern part of South Africa.

Itinerary: Map s.o .... Johannesburg - Malelane (Kruger View Charlets 1 N) - Kruger (Biyameti Bush Camp 3 N - Lower Sabi Rest Camp 3 N - Satara Rest Camp 2 N) -
Greater Kruger / Manyeleti (Pungwe Bush Camp 3 N) - Kruger (Letaba Rest Camp 1 N - Mopani Rest Camp 3 N) - Joburg

So get into the first part of our trip in 2019.
Flight from Hamburg to Istanbul and from Istanbul to Johannesburg with extra booked more seat distance, was as always unspectacular.
The better legroom was a clear plus and the extra cost of 75.00 p.P. per section have paid off.
So we arrived quite well rested in Joburg, got our rental car (a Rav 4), stowed the luggage and off we went.
It was still about 480 km to get to the first accommodation.
For a Friday afternoon it went briskly and at temperatures around 35 degrees and humidity, it was not always relaxed.
Also the numerous measuring teams of the police, who had put their radar equipment into position, did the rest, which one had to drive very concentrated.

In short, we reached save the Kruger View Charlets and moved into a room, in the very sparsely visited area.
The dinner, we took in the deck restaurant, - a kudu steak, water, wine and dessert, brought us in the right South African mood.

After a quiet night and still very muggy weather, we went to a mall in Malelan after breakfast.

There we bought our food for the next few days.
In the Bushcamp, selfcatering was announced.
Then we picked up our luggage and drove over the Malelane Gate into the Kruger.
Using the early time, we went to Berg-en-Dal, where an elephant bull blocked our way and forced us to
roll back a few meters to finally release the road.

1.


From Berg en Dal, we continued on Gravelroads, we discovered elephants, giraffes and three white rhinos, which was a very good start.


2. loudly crashing, these young bulls "worked" with their tusks


3. you do not know what you get in front of the lens and even if they were so far away, at least we had seen them before (there were 3 animals)



On the southern gravel road we went east to get to the "private road" to Biyamiti Bush Camp.


4. Giraffes will accompany the report over and over again, because we have met them very often this year, - very often in groups of 5 - 6 animals ...





5. first to see in the sky, then the Marabus settled on trees ....




6. Leopard turtle crossing - since the modern windscreens are coated differently and the angle is flatter, one has more and more difficulty from this perspective to get usable pictures

- Hard to get, not manual .....




7. Duo ...


8. Home for 3 nights ....



After 4 km we arrived at the camp gate and could at the door of the office, take our key for our house from the hook.
Service staff would be back the next day.
We settled in and enjoyed the rest of the sun, then lit the charcoal.
Just in time we were finished with our braai evening, as some rain began ......
All in all, it was early to sleep.

- We arrived now correctly.

------
Here also something for the travel equipment and the conditions on site.
Significantly slimmed down it went on this journey.
A body and two lenses and small items, weight with the backpack to the 4.5 kg, - last year to the 9.5 kg
That was a tremendous relief and I did not miss the second body either.
Everything very compact to handle.
The length range I covered was 12-100mm / Oly Pro Lens and 100-400mm Lumix Lens (x Cropfaktor 2).
The purchase, the used Lumix / Panasonic lens just before departure, was certainly a good choice!
So I got along very well, - sources of error in the pictures are clearly in the man behind the camera to search .....
As in the last year, the lighting conditions were very extreme almost every day, - many bright shades of gray from the sky dominated the days,
nice soft light in the morning or evening was rather rare, or if it was there, you could not because of the gate times far away in the bush be on the move.
Most beautiful sunshine was mainly after 10 o'clock - 15,00-16,00 o'clock found.
Our highlights of animal sightings were either very hidden or at times when the day came to an end and the gathering evening clouds,
the most beautiful light took us away again.
The conditions can not be changed and we have seen so much that we left very satisfied from the Kruger area after 15 nights.
But there is still a long way to go ......
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10-18-2019, 08:48 AM   #2
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incredible series of photos! very well done! I especially like #7 very well done
10-21-2019, 04:00 AM   #3
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With the long lens on a trial tour around the house ....

9. What could be found on earth, in front of the house, in the bush camp.
I do not even want to speculate what that is - because after looking through two insect books and the goo .... search, I did not get any smarter.
Does one have an idea? -



10. Velvet Ant - ant wasp - Ameisenwespen ? Wikipedia



11. In the camp, also numerous birds were to be found. Not so easy to catch in the foliage.

Orange breasted bush shrike - Orange-breasted bushshrike - Wikipedia - bushworms -
1/2500 at Iso 1600 f 6.3 at 400mm (800mm cropfaktor)



12. the combi still not really in control (aperture / time / Iso) and was very restless, or, very often in completely dark places on the way, - so rather as a documentary to understand, a woodpecker / woodpecker rare species.

There are three subspecies - Bennet's woodpecker, - Golden-tailed woodpecker and Cardinal woodpecker, which are very similar.

1/160 f 6.3 Iso 800 were not sufficient.





The next morning ,after a hearty breakfast we went in the other direction of our private road.
18 km, which only the camp guests are allowed to drive until you get to other roads.
Everything here, up and down, sometimes overgrown, then again open surfaces, - a great mix.
A bird area, but also Cape buffalo, elephant groups lined the way, in addition to the usual suspects,
which one sees again and again (Impalas, Steenbok ect.).
There were also parts of the track after that, but they had little to nothing to offer miles.
This ran like a red thread through the whole stay in the Kruger, which meant that you had to leave many routes every day.

Was it in the previous year in smaller national parks rather possible to stay longer in places, it was now rather unrhythmisch.

Luck, knowledge and intuition shaped the days.
We could not complain, because what we got to see was impressive, despite the lengths in between.

13. look out



14.after a lens exchange ....



15. I have been chasing a few vacations for this bird .... seen more often, but never can take a picture ...
Crested barbet - Hooded Bearded Bird - Crested barbet - Wikipedia



16. Buffalo close, - loud snorting, they showed us that we were not welcome ......




17. shy, - barely had I made the recording, jumped the Red Forest diker / Ducker away - Duiker - Wikipedia




18. Yellow-billed Hornbill - Southern Yellow-beaked Toco - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Southern_Yellow-Beak-Toco





19. the Woodland kingfisher / Senegalliest, with his characteristic call, accompanied us throughout the journey in the Kruger ...... Senegalliest ? Wikipedia




20. at a barrage ..



21. meeting ....





22. African gray hornbill - (African grey hornbill - Wikipedia) - not that I have become completely birder, - but it was already noticeable that I stopped this year very often for birds have.....

Especially if you had discovered rare specimens and then actually remained sitting, if you had stopped and even a lens aligned with them!

Because the normal case looked more like, seen, stopped and "away" ......


10-22-2019, 07:12 AM - 1 Like   #4
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I especially like # 7, 16, and 18. Really good series..thanks for sharing

10-23-2019, 03:52 AM   #5
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second part of the day ....

Giraffes stood in the middle of the street, when we turned off in a path and stared uninterruptedly in one direction.
We could not discover anything, that was so exciting for the animals.
So we tried her to drive around "after a while".
But what was that - in the high grass a little further away something moved ..... and came closer.

23rd
Spotted hyenas, they are trotting through the green grass. A great sighting!



23 b.



23c.



24. Kudubock



25. Southern ground hornbill - Southern hornbill in light rain ... with a young bird ...



26. on the way back to the camp ... then the a herd of elephants came down to dry riverbed.....



27. you can also find water under the sand, if you push it aside .....



28 the bull, just a little bit away on the way, completely relaxed and fed ......

This bull, belongs to the great tuskers of the Kruger NP and his name is Ngwenya.



10-23-2019, 04:49 AM - 1 Like   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by traveler57 Quote
South Africa, - the area - Kruger NP and West Coast
Thank you for allowing me to accompany you on your trip, this thread makes my feel I'm with you.
10-24-2019, 04:04 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kerrowdown Quote
Thank you for allowing me to accompany you on your trip, this thread makes my feel I'm with you.
I always like to see fellow travelers .....
Greetings to the Highlands

Look forward to more.....

---------- Post added 10-24-19 at 01:17 PM ----------

In the south, the giraffe population was very strong, large groups were seen again and again.
Also rhinos, we discovered again and again, white rhinos, unfortunately no black rhinos (Spitzmaultiere)
How different the park showed us, we learned on our day trip, which we undertook on the second day.
Last year we had very good sightings on our way to the Pretorius camp, this time there was almost nothing going on (Voortreekker Road).
But we did not go completely empty .......

29. testing strengh


.....



30. relaxed ....




31. breakfast




32. roadblock



33. horny comb ...



34. A moment's notice - in front of us on the road two pigeons were waiting and flew up late, when I was very close.
Only 20 cm from the bonnet when I slowed down ....
We were both fixated on the birds we did not notice, on the left next to us - previously hidden by a bush - an elephant bull,
not 5 meters away and now was really angry ..... and ran towards us.

Full throttle ... and away, because he pursued us a few meters.
- Only then, with more distance, the situation calmed down and I took the bad-tempered pachyderm .....




35. Yippee !! Wilddogs ... - if only three, flat - and very hidden ....




36. .... increasingly we saw rank fights in the bachelor groups, sometimes more seriously.



37. the contemporary was completely relaxed



38. always remember - in every water lurking a primal thing ......



.............
But on the way back to the camp, we had a great event, as we were surprised by a sink, a rhino family with their twins ...!
Already very late and again under humble light conditions and about 50-80 meters away.
What was more of an advantage in this case, as the parents were trying to visually protect their offspring, but remained relatively relaxed.
What is especially important in such a situation - do not talk! - Engine noises are no problem, but the animals respond to voices
extremely sensitive!
..... partially only 1/100 at 400mm


39.




40.


41.





Last edited by traveler57; 10-24-2019 at 08:13 AM. Reason: translate "(Spitzmaultier)"
10-24-2019, 04:34 AM - 1 Like   #8
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well done

my two African trips ( 2016 and 2019 ) have been to Tanzania and I have never been to the area that you photographed

my trips were by vehicle and guide so I didn't have to worry about weight of my gear

very happy to learn that your decision not to use two camera bodies did not cause you any bother

on my second trip, my HD Pentax-D FA 150-450mm F4.5-5.6 ED DC AW literally separated into two parts but my decision to haul the HD Pentax-DA 55-300mm F4.5-6.3 ED PLM WR RE on the trip helped save the day

Last edited by aslyfox; 10-24-2019 at 08:23 AM.
10-25-2019, 03:43 AM   #9
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on the way to the Lower Sabie Rest Camp

After three unusual nights at Bush Camp Biyamiti, we moved to the great Lower Sabi Restcamp.
Since there was a lot of time to check in, we planned unknown routes.
From the always vagabonding bull elephant you had to be always on guard, we were also surprised every now and then by them.
Everything was always fine, but twice my adrenaline level increased significantly, when such a big animal hid behind a bush right on the street and unexpectedly stepped on the street .....
and was not pleased that we crossed his path.
We rolled over the sandy, rocky roads, where it was very quiet.
Even the birds were rare.
At a waterhole, which was hidden, we saw again rhinos, which were quickly removed.
At a dam, which was a bit off, was not much going on. (Mpondo dam)

42.



43. nest constructions .. Mpondo dam



44. Blacksmith lapwing - weapon lapwing



45. "Guardian"



Even at the Sunset Dam of Lower Sabie, there was peace except for a fishing devil.
The hippos lay lazily in the water, a few smaller crocodiles moved their tracks and on the other bank, a group of Impala stayed.
Of the very big Crocks we saw here a few years ago, no sign.
So we drove to the camp and got our keys to the house, as usual, a semi-detached house with lots of green in front and river view.

46.




47.






After a break, it started again in the late afternoon.
Why and why, no idea, but on the initially driven route, "birding" was announced.
Within a few minutes, one bird after the other sat one after the other and they even stayed seated ....

48.with a - European roller started it ....




49. Red-backed Shrike - like the scooter a migratory bird




50. Magpie shrike




51. Mourning Drongo - Fork-tailed drongo




52. Black-backed Bustard - , the call of these animals is very subtle ...
This sounds quite different with the red-tailed bumpard .... (Red-crested Korhaan).
I had the "pleasure" on a tour, that such an animal right on the way in the tall grass was, when I drove past with open windows .....
My ears "rang" for quite a while, after the bird made its alarm start and call

- vimeo.com/87405948 !! Warning - if you have a good set of speakers, you may want to turn down the volume DOWN a little !!



53.




Our ultimate goal, the Mlondozi dam we reached a little later .... - where my wife was already a bit "annoyed", because of the whole stop: blush:: thanks:

From Mlondozi Dam - rest area, you have a beautiful view of the vastness of the surroundings.
It is a place where you can get out at your own risk, with covered seating,
because this place is also used for bookable evening braai with the sunset.
Everything without a fence .....
The dryness of recent years has led to the disappearance of the hippos and the former water surface
green, swampy area is ......

A place to relax and unwind - when there are few or no other people ...


54.


55. the different panoramas remain ....




56. three out of six ......





57. still resident after years .....



58.



59. Impalas on the hike




60. Wide ...





61. until sunset, unfortunately the time was not enough ....





62. on the way to the camp ... a very large group of elephants who had drunk and now set off again.



63. they are on the move in the wilderness and we back to our camp ...


10-25-2019, 05:10 AM   #10
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What a fabulous series! You really make me want to visit Africa!
10-25-2019, 06:15 AM   #11
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Nice series of your visit to the Kruger. Thanks for sharing and for visiting this part of the world!
Best.
10-29-2019, 03:58 AM   #12
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Out and in - Lower Sabie Rest Camp -

The "bill" was still open ....
But now, there was the possibility to catch these nimble airmen again.
At that time fascinating, but not immediately documented, which was a big mistake, because the following day,
they were no longer findable.
Sometimes in large collections (up to 100 animals), this time, rather in smaller groups.
Unfortunately, you could not get off here, so a somewhat stupid intake angle.

This species is also called "the grass yellow".
64.



But in the camp itself, you could discover so many things, only the safety fence limited the possibilities of movement ....

65. Tree agama - female animal, - the male part is beautifully colored, I saw that on another day, unfortunately without a camera,
really annoying .....



66. Striped skink


67. Aurora ....


68. Monarch ....




69. Dragonfly - Common tigertail - the species belongs to the group of Rivermouths




70. Damselfly ... Which genus ???


10-30-2019, 03:49 AM   #13
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Still around Lower Sabie ....
The Vormittgasrunde had not been very productive, but there were things in the camp - s.o.
Except for a very large group (about 100 animals) of buffalo, it was very quiet in the bush.
They were very far away ... like some elephants and giraffes.

71.



After taking pictures at lunchtime in the camp, we drove out in the afternoon.
Near the shore, this African eagle was sitting on his seat.

72.



Our planning took us to the Ntandanyathi Observatory
Actually just a detour and without much expectations, we parked our car to go the last few meters to Hide.
2015 was not busy here .... but you never know ....
Some people spread out on the seating and we joined them.
First of all, the situation was investigated and looked at, what did a couple doing with their very long telephoto lenses.
While I had already made a lot of pictures during our presence, it was not a comparison, as in the time,
their memory cards glowed in the cams !!

73. Collar - Barbed Bird / Black-collard Barbet -



74.



But the show on the waters was made by the pair of Woodland Kingfisher .....
Whether body care, rapid dives into the water or just sitting on a branch ....

75.




76.



After a while, my wife looked at me from the side, - the sign that we wanted to continue .....
In the car, the couple was, then conversation topic number 1.
"What do they want with all the pictures, they never look at one another at home ..."
I told her that it is about "the moment" with "the" situation !!
A look with slightly twisted eyes was the answer.
"To sit there for hours ???"
Nature photographers do not have it easy .....
On our round it went on.

77. Blue Wildebeest



78. another bird .... a beautiful red paint - European roller -




To end the tour, with luck,we discover two lionesses.
Finally it was worth it, that I twisted my neck again and again to look diagonally behind me.
At 5 o'clock I saw something lying behind the bush in the grass, a yellowish light shimmered in the grass.
Braked and set back.
- "What is there, what did you see?"
Only when I was very sure, I turned the car so that we could see the lioness now both well.
Typically towards evening, she became cheerful, yawned vigorously, rolled onto her back, and then stood up and
to go away with their conspecifics (whom we first discovered).
Totally for us alone, since no other car in the time was traveling this way.

79.



80.




81.



A drive, as one likes to imagine him, - everything was on that way.... (zebras, impala, warthog ect.), A nice round tour .......
11-04-2019, 04:58 AM   #14
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Lower Sabie - Morning Tour - to the Skukuza Main Camp and in the afternoon to the Mlondozi - Lookout, to finish the days in Lower Sabie.

To list all the different street numbers here, I think that is too far-reaching and too tiring for many.
Therefore, who wants to have more specific information, write me ....
The stay in Skukuza we used, among other things, in the Cattle Baron to eat and drink and the free Wifi for
for a "water level message" about our condition, to convey to our children.
On a South African SIM card we had waived this holiday again.

Next to the viewpoint Mlondozi, which always offers wonderful views and is a place of rest,
In turn, tens of kilometers of Gravelroad were driven off.
Unexplored routes and well-known routes came under the wheels.
Speaking of wheels and dust, - the car was probably not quite close to the tailgate (rubber seal?).
In any case, we have collected plenty of dust in the interior in the time, which was not so desirable.
The sightings on this day were great and the scenery was especially the section east of Skukuza,
especially noteworthy, as here on Sabie, many large trees (forest) lined the way.
We have always rejected Skukuza as an overnight stay camp because it is very crowded during the day.
However, I see something different now and so we are not averse, on a next vacation,
to book there for 2-3 nights.

82. Water features ...


A few minutes later, a traffic jam, - the road was blocked.
We rolled up and asked, what would be special to see ..
"A leopard in the tree ......."
A big grin appeared on our faces, - the camera / video cam were drawn ....
Now it was only necessary to wait until the cars drove off in front of us ...
That lasted, of course.
But finally, a gap opened up and we could through the dense foliage,
get a first look.
Ok.- I thought - goes so .... a carcass without a head .... which was on the right side, facing away from us ...
Nothing happened for minutes - that we seriously considered continuing our journey.
Suddenly something moved on the thick branch, - the leopard made a change of position,
which I was very right.
I could roll something forward and found a small gap between the leaves with a clear view.
Although very dark there on the trunk, but feasible.
After some continuous shooting and the control of the pictures, I was satisfied, more was not possible.
So we continue our journey .....

83. Pictures all already edited, as it was much darker under the leaves on site .....



84.



85.



86.


87. the rest of the breeding season ....




On the way back to Lower Sabie, I met a car, which suddenly made a leap forward shortly before us.
The driver raised her right hand as if to greet or apologize.
But far from it, - that was a warning from her, because suddenly there was from the dense bush, to our right,
a big cop in must have run into the street and was not at all pleased by our presence, he wanted to go down to the river.
Luckily I still had enough space and time to reset.
With more distance, the situation calmed down quite quickly, he threatened two to three times and then left the road.
Nobody needs a collision with animals, let alone with such a colossus!

88.



89.




90. Bushbuck at the camp fence - wonders who's watching whom .....



91. After the break, back on tour - Goliath Heron -



92. Flight acrobat at the Mlondozi Lookout



93. Pumba - encrusted -




94. Barn swallow



The days in the southern part of the Kruger NP were over.
The next morning we continued northwards - Satara Camp was our next destination.
In our planning last year, we had actually scheduled the Talamati Buschfeld Camp for these 2 nights.
But while booking at Sanpark, I had some reservations about the area around the camp.
We had been to this area a few years ago, at the same time of the year.
At that time it was very dry, because it is higher, very sandy and rocky area.
and we did not have had many sightings.
In short, we booked the well-known Satara Camp instead.
This had the advantage that we did not have to "bunker" much food again, which would have been mandatory for Talamati.

Still, we had the problem that subsequently, in the Private Game Resort, we would not have to worry about cooling the rest of the food.
11-04-2019, 06:29 AM   #15
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A pure proof that if You want more keepers it is better to spend the money on a great trip then the newest gear.
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