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infrapink
Posted By: blues_hawk, 12-18-2019, 03:58 PM

My wife just called this infrapink.

Taken with a converted eos-m and the 15-45mm lens.
Shooting handheld during my commute still required stopping. I realize now there are many things wrong with this shot and I won't defend it.




Last edited by blues_hawk; 12-18-2019 at 07:56 PM. Reason: had the wrong glasses on.
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12-20-2019, 09:32 AM - 1 Like   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by blues_hawk Quote
Thanks!, that one is also posted somewhere else but I decided to put it in my gallery so I could cross post it easier. I'm hoping to actually get decent at this at some point but it's seriously a sideline thing.

The hardest part is the 2 hours of meticulous disassembly and then carefully cutting out of rubber, (and usually destroying) the built in ir/uv filter in the mirrorless eos-m without destroying any of the ribbons or micro sized connectors, and then carefully reassembling the whole mess and having it work. I used a slowed down video example of the operation and recommend at least a point by point I looked it up and the K5 is even more freaky to convert. I'm considering getting a second k5 for a backup before trying this operation on it.

Word of warning: Warning, there is soldering involved in the pentax takedown. I have 30+ years experience in component level electronics repair, so I'm not going to be pushing anyone to try this at home. If anyone decides to try it on their own be sure to find step by step instructions and understand them before you start, and use containers lined up to split parts into as many logical steps as possible....and clean...now clean again. now clean the air, now throw the cat out. Lifepixel is a much easier option and sells used gear too. I wish they had a k5 already done as they make very reasonably prices astrocams now that we can reliably tether them. I get enough HA (ionized hydrogen emits at near IR wavelengths) in the K5 without conversion that it may not even be worth the risk.
I pulled apart and converted a K10D to full spec myself. It was certainly a daunting task and in fact didn't quite get it right. I could never find a sensitive enough dial comparator to reset the sensor distance (by find, I mean an inexpesnive one, I wasn't about to spend more than $70. That and I simply couldn't wrap my head around how it was supposed to be used), so I got it close the first time, made some test exposures to see what was focussing where, stripped the camera down again and re-adjusted. I got IR to focus at infinity but barely I think. Glad it was only on a K10 and would love to one day get a proper one from a company like LifePixel.

---------- Post added 12-20-2019 at 08:37 AM ----------

Here's one of my shots form this summer with that K10D


12-21-2019, 12:21 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by aitrus3 Quote
I pulled apart and converted a K10D to full spec myself. It was certainly a daunting task and in fact didn't quite get it right. I could never find a sensitive enough dial comparator to reset the sensor distance (by find, I mean an inexpesnive one, I wasn't about to spend more than $70. That and I simply couldn't wrap my head around how it was supposed to be used), so I got it close the first time, made some test exposures to see what was focussing where, stripped the camera down again and re-adjusted. I got IR to focus at infinity but barely I think. Glad it was only on a K10 and would love to one day get a proper one from a company like LifePixel.[COLOR="Silver"]
Cotton candy trees. Very nice, with a kit lens too(I still love mine). Your extra effort getting the distance set up shows.

I realized the adjustment was likely going to be a problem and just set it square to the frame. I mostly use it with a PK adapter and the Ir filter makes af in the eos-m have seizures anyway. I did buy a real M lens but it's not the greatest. It did fit in a packet though, when it actually connected. The M series(and canon firmware in general) makes me twitch a bit. I haven't really done much with IR filters as I originally did it for astrophotography. I quickly learned that I still needed a UV/Ir filter, but bought a 48mm one that passes H-alpha. It did make a difference but I don't have much to show for it as yet. It's a 3rd string experiment and there often isn't time or energy when I get that rare clear moonless night. I did get some time lapse with it after I got the filter.


I think it looks pretty cool in HD, which apparently is more than the internet is capable of at the moment.
12-21-2019, 12:40 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by blues_hawk Quote
Here's one that IR worked better on. One thing I noticed when I started trying to do this, it basically the same techniques as long exposure night shooting, especially if you use a very long wavelength IR filter. I was taking 6 second shots even with the gain pushed.

Following my other experiments with super long exposure low gain shooting, I suspect this can get much better with a tripod and iso100. I'll try that sometime soon.
Nice composition, IR works well here!
12-21-2019, 12:49 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by blues_hawk Quote
Here's one that IR worked better on. One thing I noticed when I started trying to do this, it basically the same techniques as long exposure night shooting, especially if you use a very long wavelength IR filter. I was taking 6 second shots even with the gain pushed.

Following my other experiments with super long exposure low gain shooting, I suspect this can get much better with a tripod and iso100. I'll try that sometime soon.
I like that b&w much better the first one is wayyy too pink for my taste

12-21-2019, 07:34 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by blues_hawk Quote
Cotton candy trees. Very nice, with a kit lens too(I still love mine). Your extra effort getting the distance set up shows.

I realized the adjustment was likely going to be a problem and just set it square to the frame. I mostly use it with a PK adapter and the Ir filter makes af in the eos-m have seizures anyway. I did buy a real M lens but it's not the greatest. It did fit in a packet though, when it actually connected. The M series(and canon firmware in general) makes me twitch a bit. I haven't really done much with IR filters as I originally did it for astrophotography. I quickly learned that I still needed a UV/Ir filter, but bought a 48mm one that passes H-alpha. It did make a difference but I don't have much to show for it as yet. It's a 3rd string experiment and there often isn't time or energy when I get that rare clear moonless night. I did get some time lapse with it after I got the filter.

Moon and clouds and filters oh my. - YouTube

I think it looks pretty cool in HD, which apparently is more than the internet is capable of at the moment.
I've been curious about using an IR converted camera that includes the 656nm of H-alpha for astro work. I'm also curious, because it's cutting out a huge amount of light, if a moonless night is really needed at that point. As the moon spreads the light energy -mostly only visible- over a broad spectrum, cutting out a majority of that spectrum -even if it's not true narrowband- should reduce the impact a full moon has on washing out the sky. I have a friend that has a new to him 590nm + up Nikon IR camera that I thought I would try and borrow if he was so willing to run this test.
And then, I thought it could make a really great luminance layer if you stripped only the red channel and converted to B&W.

If I only had the $$... but then if I did, I'd probbaly just buy a proper mono astrocam and set of filters.
12-22-2019, 05:31 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by 08amczb Quote
Nice composition, IR works well here!
Thanks!

QuoteOriginally posted by Urs Quote
I like that b&w much better the first one is way too pink for my taste
Me too. It's mostly color balance that makes a big difference.


QuoteOriginally posted by aitrus3 Quote
I've been curious about using an IR converted camera that includes the 656nm of H-alpha for astro work.

I got to H-alpha the cheesy way. I modified the camera by removing the filter completely(full spectrum), then used external 2" inch IR/UV filter that was well known to pass a high percentage at 656nm. The filter was inexpensive and I am able to make changes without doing more tear downs. A clip in would be neat because I could use my 62mm and 72mm lenses without vignetting the aperture with a bunch of step down rings but clip-ins get pricey.

QuoteOriginally posted by aitrus3 Quote
I'm also curious, because it's cutting out a huge amount of light, if a moonless night is really needed at that point. As the moon spreads the light energy -mostly only visible- over a broad spectrum, cutting out a majority of that spectrum -even if it's not true narrowband- should reduce the impact a full moon has on washing out the sky. I have a friend that has a new to him 590nm + up Nikon IR camera that I thought I would try and borrow if he was so willing to run this test.
And then, I thought it could make a really great luminance layer if you stripped only the red channel and converted to B&W.

If I only had the $$... but then if I did, I'd probably just buy a proper mono astrocam and set of filters.
If you go mono, be ready to deal with 4 times the number of frames per shot, and processing nightmares. In the short nights of summer that can make things very frustrating. You also need a set of filters, and a filter wheel. and a huge amount of drive space..and patience. It all adds up horribly. I cut corners whenever I can so I made my own diy motorized filter wheel from the cheapest one I could find.

Yep, on objects that have plenty of light Ir can really cut through the junk, but it can be finicky as I'm sure you already know.

If you have a camera that is passing some Ha anyway, but cuts sharply at longer wavelengths you can use an IR pass filter that includes a tiny bit of dark red spectrum effectively as a broad band filter. It's not going to be the single lum monster that a really expensive 7nm wide Ha is. I've seen the big guys(planet chasers are sensitive about telescope size) use an Ir filter to get good planetary shots in rough skies and even in daylight.

As for budgets, my wife walked in recently and said I should get a big astrocam. Seems there was a coat in blue like the one in red she has -- but I'm trained not to see such things.

I'm currently wrestling with finding a K1 I can nab on the "cheap" or spending the same too much cash on a cooled aps-c like the asi1600-pro. Since I have a couple good Pentax cameras, and way too much junk for them, the astrocam is currently winning. For me, the ROI or "region of interest" ability is enticing. But the lure of a larger mirror may win out.

^^that much rambling means I should probably plug my astro group. We're eager to please and you can get just about any question answered there in a few minutes. It may not be the right answer, but that usually just means you get to watch really smart people argue for a while. It's also let me rub elbows with some big names in astronomy, always a thrill. :P Astro group

And HEY! we need more Pentaxians in that group. I feel like that little terrier barking around the big dogs when the canikoners start arguing which is the best. Then I recently made it abundantly clear.

Last edited by blues_hawk; 12-22-2019 at 05:41 PM. Reason: grammar etc.
12-22-2019, 07:13 PM   #22
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Option 1! Even though the second image is obviously a much better image technically.

12-23-2019, 09:56 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by blues_hawk Quote
Thanks!


Me too. It's mostly color balance that makes a big difference.





I got to H-alpha the cheesy way. I modified the camera by removing the filter completely(full spectrum), then used external 2" inch IR/UV filter that was well known to pass a high percentage at 656nm. The filter was inexpensive and I am able to make changes without doing more tear downs. A clip in would be neat because I could use my 62mm and 72mm lenses without vignetting the aperture with a bunch of step down rings but clip-ins get pricey.



If you go mono, be ready to deal with 4 times the number of frames per shot, and processing nightmares. In the short nights of summer that can make things very frustrating. You also need a set of filters, and a filter wheel. and a huge amount of drive space..and patience. It all adds up horribly. I cut corners whenever I can so I made my own diy motorized filter wheel from the cheapest one I could find.

Yep, on objects that have plenty of light Ir can really cut through the junk, but it can be finicky as I'm sure you already know.

If you have a camera that is passing some Ha anyway, but cuts sharply at longer wavelengths you can use an IR pass filter that includes a tiny bit of dark red spectrum effectively as a broad band filter. It's not going to be the single lum monster that a really expensive 7nm wide Ha is. I've seen the big guys(planet chasers are sensitive about telescope size) use an Ir filter to get good planetary shots in rough skies and even in daylight.

As for budgets, my wife walked in recently and said I should get a big astrocam. Seems there was a coat in blue like the one in red she has -- but I'm trained not to see such things.

I'm currently wrestling with finding a K1 I can nab on the "cheap" or spending the same too much cash on a cooled aps-c like the asi1600-pro. Since I have a couple good Pentax cameras, and way too much junk for them, the astrocam is currently winning. For me, the ROI or "region of interest" ability is enticing. But the lure of a larger mirror may win out.

^^that much rambling means I should probably plug my astro group. We're eager to please and you can get just about any question answered there in a few minutes. It may not be the right answer, but that usually just means you get to watch really smart people argue for a while. It's also let me rub elbows with some big names in astronomy, always a thrill. :P Astro group

And HEY! we need more Pentaxians in that group. I feel like that little terrier barking around the big dogs when the canikoners start arguing which is the best. Then I recently made it abundantly clear.

Well, I joined the group even if to just hide in the shadows for the time being. I don't mind the mono work much at all, in fact I frequently spend my time scouring the MAST archive for Space Telescopes in search of narrow band Hubble imagery that maybe hasn't been processed. I really don' mind the work that goes into it. I'm more of a scientist than an artists and I think that's why narrow band astro is so appealing. As long as you have a handle on composition, the secrets of a good shot can be unlocked more logically than artistically. I believe my IR filter is 720nm, so it doesn't include the 656nm. My friends Nikon is 590nm, so it would.
Haha I wish we had the money for my wife to come up to me and say I should get an astrocam! But honestly, my health is making it challenging to even be out at night. When I got into this my original goal was to seek out landscapes where some interesting astro targets would be in the background and I could combine the two types. I bought my HEQ5 Pro mistakenly thinking it was the Star Adventurer. ooops. Yeah I got confused between specs... Thought the HEQ5 Pro was the battery operated backpack-able SA and it had a good price used... There are two steps that I want to take next: purchase PixInsight, and then look at getting a 31mm ltd and some smaller 10aH rechargeable batteries so I can use my mount in areas that aren't far from the car but far enough that extension cords don't reach.
12-24-2019, 07:48 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by SSGGeezer Quote
Option 1! Even though the second image is obviously a much better image technically.
LOL! Yes.. destruction still might happen. Lesson learned...change to close up glasses when choosing photos to share.
12-24-2019, 01:35 PM - 1 Like   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by aitrus3 Quote
Well, I joined the group even if to just hide in the shadows for the time being. I don't mind the mono work much at all, in fact I frequently spend my time scouring the MAST archive for Space Telescopes in search of narrow band Hubble imagery that maybe hasn't been processed. I really don' mind the work that goes into it. I'm more of a scientist than an artists and I think that's why narrow band astro is so appealing. As long as you have a handle on composition, the secrets of a good shot can be unlocked more logically than artistically. I believe my IR filter is 720nm, so it doesn't include the 656nm. My friends Nikon is 590nm, so it would.
Haha I wish we had the money for my wife to come up to me and say I should get an astrocam! But honestly, my health is making it challenging to even be out at night. When I got into this my original goal was to seek out landscapes where some interesting astro targets would be in the background and I could combine the two types. I bought my HEQ5 Pro mistakenly thinking it was the Star Adventurer. ooops. Yeah I got confused between specs... Thought the HEQ5 Pro was the battery operated backpack-able SA and it had a good price used... There are two steps that I want to take next: purchase PixInsight, and then look at getting a 31mm ltd and some smaller 10aH rechargeable batteries so I can use my mount in areas that aren't far from the car but far enough that extension cords don't reach.
Woot, on the group. Some good folks in there. [heq5] --I did that with my 6inch sct that started the ball down this road. That's not so much a big spotting scope as it is a small stage spot. 5 years later....

Money -- I'm holding off on the big camera partly because single income and I'm doing short time right now. :P I've gotten ahead by hard work and DIY everything. It's amazing how much folks pay for services, though as I get older the ground gets colder and the roof higher and the jungle a bit stronger...

I'm a ZWO fan for bang for the buck cameras. I've seen some very good work from the QHY
PI is undoubtedly good but there are some free alternatives. I saw on your Flickr you're already using some of them. I use linux for most things and Siril for stacking and calibration, Gimp and Raw therapee for finish. I've also developed a remote setup partly with DIY stuff and opensource. Indilib.org is a great resource for that. I use a 35ah garden battery in an old hanging file folder box with a battery charger, a fused lighter jack for the mount. It also houses 5v buck regulator supplies for the raspberry pi and usb hub. I also have bricks buried in the front and back yard with holes in them for fast polar alignment and power cords and network cables coiled up under the house eaves when not in use.
12-24-2019, 06:06 PM - 1 Like   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by blues_hawk Quote
Woot, on the group. Some good folks in there. [heq5] --I did that with my 6inch sct that started the ball down this road. That's not so much a big spotting scope as it is a small stage spot. 5 years later....

Money -- I'm holding off on the big camera partly because single income and I'm doing short time right now. :P I've gotten ahead by hard work and DIY everything. It's amazing how much folks pay for services, though as I get older the ground gets colder and the roof higher and the jungle a bit stronger...

I'm a ZWO fan for bang for the buck cameras. I've seen some very good work from the QHY
PI is undoubtedly good but there are some free alternatives. I saw on your Flickr you're already using some of them. I use linux for most things and Siril for stacking and calibration, Gimp and Raw therapee for finish. I've also developed a remote setup partly with DIY stuff and opensource. Indilib.org is a great resource for that. I use a 35ah garden battery in an old hanging file folder box with a battery charger, a fused lighter jack for the mount. It also houses 5v buck regulator supplies for the raspberry pi and usb hub. I also have bricks buried in the front and back yard with holes in them for fast polar alignment and power cords and network cables coiled up under the house eaves when not in use.



Oh genius move on the bricks. My problem is the yard to the east/south of us is abandoned and the local Regional District is mum on cleaning it up at all. So I have trees that essentially grow like weeds taking over the view in that direction. So annoying. I don't mind driving a ways up the road though, then I get out of the bortle 4 zone and very close to a 3.
Short 10 minute drive.
12-29-2019, 10:13 PM - 1 Like   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by aitrus3 Quote
Oh genius move on the bricks. My problem is the yard to the east/south of us is abandoned and the local Regional District is mum on cleaning it up at all. So I have trees that essentially grow like weeds taking over the view in that direction. So annoying. I don't mind driving a ways up the road though, then I get out of the bortle 4 zone and very close to a 3.
Short 10 minute drive.
That sucks. Maybe somebody will get up a posse and attack it before it gets out of hand. I've got tree troubles too. The tree company is supposed to come get the adult planted pines and profit share with me, but they're dragging their feet a bit.
I just got a new 14mm rokinon to play with and you can see some of my tree problem in this shot. The sky hasn't been very good this week.
.
.
12-29-2019, 10:26 PM - 1 Like   #28
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I think I'm going to like the lens though.. here's the other way. North star near the tree on the lower left.

12-30-2019, 09:25 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by blues_hawk Quote
I think I'm going to like the lens though.. here's the other way. North star near the tree on the lower left.
Nice dark skies! I can see the issue with the trees, yes.
there is one tree that is becoming a problem for the fence, so it will eventually have to come down. I'm allowed to do that because it is interfering with my yard. Unfortunately if I go onto the yard and clean up the rest, I am liable to be sued. You're only allowed to remove the trees that directly impact your property.


So annoying they won't come clean it up.
01-01-2020, 09:23 PM - 1 Like   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by aitrus3 Quote

So annoying they won't come clean it up.
Yeah that sucks.

[redated a long rant to keep PF a happy haven]
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