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Poking through the grass
Lens: Sigma 17-70mm DC Macro Camera: K-5IIs Photo Location: in the yard ISO: 125 Shutter Speed: 1/250s Aperture: F5.6 
Posted By: Apet-Sure, 09-04-2020, 08:25 AM

Beautiful natural sculpture.

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09-04-2020, 08:38 AM   #2
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That is a really nice image, thanks for posting it.
09-04-2020, 08:50 AM   #3
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Thank you Heinrich. Coming from you, I consider it quite a compliment.
09-04-2020, 11:49 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Apet-Sure Quote
Beautiful natural sculpture.
WOW! Brilliant shot, I'm always trying for those beautiful close ups never seem to get it right.

09-05-2020, 09:19 AM   #5
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Thank you very much Shelly. The K-5IIs is a great tool, and the Sigma 17-70mm DC Macro has given me wonderful images too. Many of the shots in my albums were taken with that lens. Type 'Macro' into the search box here on the forum, and you'll see lots of threads and articles on the topic. You'll get there!
09-06-2020, 09:15 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Apet-Sure Quote
Thank you very much Shelly. The K-5IIs is a great tool, and the Sigma 17-70mm DC Macro has given me wonderful images too. Many of the shots in my albums were taken with that lens. Type 'Macro' into the search box here on the forum, and you'll see lots of threads and articles on the topic. You'll get there!
Someone mentioned to me recently when I went to collect my camera that I should invest in a reverse ring or a tube......haven't managed to get one yet perhaps that's a good thing?
09-06-2020, 10:00 AM   #7
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Wonderful shot!

Jer
09-06-2020, 11:45 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Shelly Quote
Someone mentioned to me recently when I went to collect my camera that I should invest in a reverse ring or a tube...
For macro photography you have 4 basic options. All involve reducing the minimum focus distance of the lens to get it closer to your subject. The closer you get, the more that little things look big in the viewfinder and in the image.

Extension tubes can be mounted in-between the camera and lens. They come in different lengths, which translates to different degrees of magnification. You can buy them individually or in sets. They also come in what I call 'dumb' and 'smart' versions. I have a set of three 'dumb' extension tubes. They are simply tubes with K-mounts at each end. They do not provide any communication between the lens and camera. So, no autofocus, no auto-aperture adjustment by the camera, and no information in the image file about what lens you used. The good thing is that they are cheap. My set cost about $30US on the 'bay. Smart versions have contacts that transmit info between the camera and lens, and are considerably more expensive. If the lens does not have an aperture ring, as some modern lenses don't, smart tubes may or may not be able to adjust the lens' aperture. When using my dumb tubes, I have to physically set the aperture with the aperture ring.

Reversing rings allow you to mount your lens 'backwards'. The front of the lens faces the camera and the back of the lens faces your subject. You lose all possibility of controlling the lens with the camera. The advantage is that you can get some very high magnification. (In my 35mm film days I took a shot of a few table salt crystals that filled the entire frame.) A wide angle focal length lens gives you higher magnification than a 'normal' or 'telephoto' lens. Remember, the optics are working backwards.

You can get 'close-up' filters (lenses actually) that attach to the front of your lens. They come in different diopter ratings for different magnifications. Some screw into your lens' filter threads, others attach differently. They are available from quite inexpensive versions to VERY expensive versions. The thing to remember is that you are adding glass to the light path. If you cheap out and buy un-coated bargain versions you are liable to seriously degrade image quality. They are lenses; buy the best you can afford.

Finally, you can get a 'macro' camera lens. Even though my Sigma 17-70mm that I used for the image above has 'Macro' in the name, it isn't a true macro lens. It would be more accurate to call it a 'close focusing' lens. True 'macro' means getting the image on the camera sensor to be the same size, or bigger, than the actual object. For instance, if a lens allows a 1/2" long bug to cast a 1/2" long focused image on the camera sensor, the ratio is 1 to 1 (1:1), and the lens is capable of 'true macro'. My Sigma has a maximum ratio of 1:2.3, or about 0.43X magnification. The shot above is a close crop of a larger original. Modern cameras have lots of megapixels, which allows a lot of flexibility when cropping. You don't always need high magnification.

I also have a Pentax-F 100mm f2.8 Macro lens which is 1:1. True macro lenses tend to have very good optical qualities, with some exceptions of course.

The big challenge with any type of macro photography can be the razor-thin depth-of-field unless, and even when, you stop the aperture way down. A deep discussion all by itself.

---------- Post added 09-06-20 at 02:58 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Sailor Quote
Wonderful shot!
Thank you Jer.

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