Originally posted by RICHARD L. The version you reworked seems a little "yellowish" to my eyes (I may be totally wrong, I apologize in advance) but maybe I could play a little with the White Balance.
It depends on what you're used to looking at, Richard. When you've been looking at images that are generally "too blue", correctly-balanced images will look "too yellow" initially. It takes a short while (sometimes a long while
) for the mind to adjust. When asked to pick neutral grey from a number of choices on a screen, most folks will pick one that is slightly colder / bluer than neutral grey. Similarly, folks that are used to using a laptop computer with un-calibrated, un-profiled screen will typically perceive a correctly colour-profiled screen to be too warm and yellow-ish, until they've been using it for a while and then it feels normal.
There's a couple of interesting experiments you might try, if you've the appetite to...
1) Shoot JPEG + RAW, using AWB in the camera, and the Natural or Bright in-camera colour profile (not Vibrant). With the JPEG file, allow yourself the flexibility to adjust exposure in post-processing, but don't adjust anything else. What you end up with - at least in the types of lighting and for the kinds of scenes you're shooting (where AWB will usually be reasonably accurate) - should be a good and pretty honest colour and contrast rendition. Compare it to the raw file you've processed in your normal way, and I think you'll see a big difference.
2) If you have one, use a white balance card (or, at a push, an 18% grey card) to set the camera's custom white balance prior to shooting your scene (if you don't have such a card, I'd recommend buying one, as it's a really useful and inexpensive piece of equipment to own). Alternatively, you could include the card in a test shot and use the eye-dropper to sample it in post-processing and set the white balance for subsequent shots from that. For the resulting raw file of your scene, use the camera's white balance values, choose the camera's Embedded colour profile or your software's "Standard" profile, then allow yourself only
small adjustments of contrast, clarity, vibrance, saturation etc. - but no more than, say, +10 for each. The result will likely be a fairly accurate rendition of the scene, with perhaps a little extra artistic "pop".
3) Since I know you're fond of using an ND filter, try backing it off a little. I've noticed quite a few folks will always adjust their ND filters to maximum effect when shooting, and whilst it certainly looks dramatic, less is usually more with these things. Try setting it
half way instead of all the way. The resulting skies will still have some drama to them, but should look a lot more natural, and you'll have a little latitude for further (gentle) adjustment of contrast and vibrance / saturation in post-processing without those skies becoming unnaturally dark and/or over-saturated.
EDIT: These experiments won't necessarily produce images that you find pleasing given your own colour perception, but they will go some way to demonstrating a fairly natural and accurate look you can use as a baseline and starting point. You can take it from there, adjusting as little or as much as you want to achieve the desired end result, but just bear in mind that the stronger your adjustments to satisfy your own tastes, the more personal it becomes - which might be perfect for you, but may look increasingly "off" to others Originally posted by RICHARD L. Thank you very much for your help !
You're very welcome