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05-09-2022, 09:46 AM - 1 Like   #4546
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QuoteOriginally posted by que es tu Quote
Well, I finally got around to testing this, and here is what I found out: the 55-300 f4-5.8 @ 300mm with the Canon 500D closeup filter at MFD shows 25mm
I also now have a DFA 100mm macro, and that lens shows just over 23mm. Pentax says the sensor is 23.5 mm wide, so that should be perfect.
Just for fun, I put the closeup filter on the macro lens and got 18.5mm. So, 5% above life sized??
I suppose the 55-300 gives just under life size with the close up filter which is good enough for me!! Thank you for your help!!
Let me give you some caveats:
1) Achromatic lenses generally work better at modest focal length. The best IQ with a 55~300mm + 500D* will probably be in the 75~200mm range
2) At about 1/4 life-size the depth of field starts to get really, really shallow. Focus is critical (move the entire camera + lens, the focusing ring and AF will not be useful)
3) Also at about 1/4 life-size, camera shake becomes a major issue. At that magnification it's like trying to hand-hold a 500mm lens @ 1/60 0f a second

At about 1/4 life-size and greater magnification it's best to use a tripod and/or a strobe, otherwise too many images will fall short because the focus wasn't right or because of blur caused by camera shake. A tiny breeze in the field, trying to photograph an insect at say 1/3 life size, will throw your subject far out of focus, blur it badly, and even push the subject completely out of framing. If you do macro in the range of 1/4 life-size and greater magnification, you need different technique and a high tolerance for images that don't turn out as hoped or expected.

* Canon's "500D" designation is supposed to indicate that when attached to any lens that is focused @ infinity, the 500D will bring the focus distance down to 500mm (= 0.5m). The Canon 250D brings to focus distance down to 250mm (= 0.25m). This applies to any lens, any focal length, prime or zoom, when the lens is set to infinity.


Last edited by WPRESTO; 05-09-2022 at 12:56 PM.
05-09-2022, 11:34 AM   #4547
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QuoteOriginally posted by WPRESTO Quote
Let me give you some caveats:
1) Achromatic lenses generally work better at modest focal length. The best IQ with a 55~300mm + 500D* will probably be in the 75~200mm range
2) At about 1/4 life-size the depth of field starts to get really, really shallow. Focus is critical (move the entire camera + lens, the focusing ring and AF will not be useful)
3) Also at about 1/4 life-size, camera shake becomes a major issue. At that magnification it's like trying to hand-hold a 500mm lens @ 1/60 0f a second

At about 1/4 life-size and greater magnification it's best to use a tripod and/or a strobe, otherwise too many images will fall short because the focus wasn't right or because of blur caused by camera shake. A tiny breeze in the field, trying to photograph an insect at say 1/3 life size, will throw your subject far out of focus, blur it badly, and even push the subject completely out of framing. If you do macro in the range of 1/4 life-size and greater magnification, you need different technique and a high tolerance for images that don't turn out as hoped or expected.

* Canon's "500D" designation is supposed to indicate that when attached to any lens that is focused @ infinity, the 500D will bring the focus distance down to 500mm (= 0.5m). The canon 250D brings to focus distance to 250mm (= 0.25m).
Yes thank you! I have noticed all of your points since I began dabbling in macro photography. Coincidently, I just discovered that I can use my Godox TT350 with the 100mm macro and get much higher keeper rate. DOF and subject movement are a real challenge, but I have taken some nice shots since I started using the flash. My “photo budget” will be caught back up soon, and I hope to be able to donate so I can post photos and get feedback. Until then I will study everyone’s work here and keep learning all I can. Thank you again for your advice!!
05-09-2022, 01:03 PM   #4548
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QuoteOriginally posted by que es tu Quote
Yes thank you! I have noticed all of your points since I began dabbling in macro photography. Coincidently, I just discovered that I can use my Godox TT350 with the 100mm macro and get much higher keeper rate. DOF and subject movement are a real challenge, but I have taken some nice shots since I started using the flash. My “photo budget” will be caught back up soon, and I hope to be able to donate so I can post photos and get feedback. Until then I will study everyone’s work here and keep learning all I can. Thank you again for your advice!!
Some people don't like the black background in macro images taken with a strobe, but for me the % keepers and the much superior rendering of details is more than sufficient compensation.


BTW: I also like the Vello Universal Flash Diffuser for softening a strobe for close-ups. It's a little snug to get onto bigger flash units, but it's only $10.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/749295-REG/Vello_VE_1001_Universal_Bo...981&
05-09-2022, 01:39 PM   #4549
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QuoteOriginally posted by WPRESTO Quote
Some people don't like the black background in macro images taken with a strobe, but for me the % keepers and the much superior rendering of details is more than sufficient compensation.


BTW: I also like the Vello Universal Flash Diffuser for softening a strobe for close-ups. It's a little snug to get onto bigger flash units, but it's only $10.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/749295-REG/Vello_VE_1001_Universal_Bo...981&
I have been experimenting with shutter speed to change the background illumination. I also discovered that the focus clamp on my old DFA 100mm macro acts as a MF/AF switch so when I engage the clamp, I can utilize Catch-in-Focus! I get the subject almost in focus, then slowly move towards it until the shutter clicks and the flash fires, and bada bing bada bang!! I have the photo!! The trick is to move very slowly. I haven’t tried a flash diffuser yet, but will look into it as my interest and experience grow.

05-09-2022, 03:16 PM   #4550
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QuoteOriginally posted by que es tu Quote
I have been experimenting with shutter speed to change the background illumination. I also discovered that the focus clamp on my old DFA 100mm macro acts as a MF/AF switch so when I engage the clamp, I can utilize Catch-in-Focus! I get the subject almost in focus, then slowly move towards it until the shutter clicks and the flash fires, and bada bing bada bang!! I have the photo!! The trick is to move very slowly. I haven’t tried a flash diffuser yet, but will look into it as my interest and experience grow.
Catch-in-focus is really useful. Another useful method is to set the camera to the fastest multi image rate you can, manual focus, focus peaking if available. Then when moving the rig forward and the subject first gets peaking color, press and hold the shutter and move forward-back slowly across a very small distance. Numerous discards, but one will probably be just what you hoped. If your movement is close to linear and the subject does not move, you might be able to image-stack a few frames to gain some DOF. I've used this method on insects with some success. Stacking a few frames is sometimes possible, but insects what have antennae, especially long antennae, seem to move them constantly. A few stacks I tried yielded an insect with a forked antenna that was unknown to the natural world.
05-09-2022, 11:03 PM   #4551
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Yes stacking of live creatures at close to 1:1 magnification is extremely challenging. Handheld with no flash, then I'd say borderline impossible beyond a couple of frames out of sheer luck. I've seen many stunning stacks of several tens of frames of live insects, but they were done in very specific moments of the day like early morning at low temperatures, where insects are asleep and can be approached with all the necessary equipment (tripod, focusing rail, etc).
05-10-2022, 02:14 PM   #4552
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QuoteOriginally posted by simon_199 Quote
they were done in very specific moments of the day like early morning at low temperatures, where insects are asleep and can be approached with all the necessary equipment (tripod, focusing rail, etc).
Insects that don't move may be easier to photograph, but they are also harder to find. For that reason, the first thing I pack is a pair of Papilio II 6.5x binoculars.

05-12-2022, 11:15 AM - 5 Likes   #4553
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Pentax K-1 mII Ltd Silver and A*200f4 Macro
05-13-2022, 04:21 AM - 1 Like   #4554
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QuoteOriginally posted by jcdoss Quote
Pentax K-1 mII Ltd Silver and A*200f4 Macro
That's a visually pleasing image. The lighting makes it as much as the the sharp details.
05-13-2022, 07:34 AM   #4555
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Until I can donate and use attachments, I put some photos in my album entitled “ Macro Work”
05-13-2022, 08:19 AM   #4556
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QuoteOriginally posted by WPRESTO Quote
That's a visually pleasing image. The lighting makes it as much as the the sharp details.
Thanks for the kind words!
05-14-2022, 11:37 AM - 2 Likes   #4557
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Large red damselfly and victim (Tiger Sawfly?). Sigma 180mm/5.6 with 20mm extension tube, KP, natural light.
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05-14-2022, 11:45 AM - 1 Like   #4558
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I took this while waiting for my son to finish his circus arts class. Pentax 100mm f2.8 macro with Canon 500D close up lens f11 ISO 200 1/60 Godox TT350 flash handheld
05-15-2022, 07:37 AM - 1 Like   #4559
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Here’s another one just for kicks! I focused on the “eye”, but the DOF was tough to deal with!
05-15-2022, 11:51 AM - 2 Likes   #4560
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I thought this one turned out kind of interesting. It is a red clover blossom with the DFA 100mm macro and the Canon 500D close up lens. f8 1/60 ISO 800 handheld no flash


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