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12-24-2014, 09:44 AM   #4861
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QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
Nice job -- strong composition with those alternating blocks of complementary colors.
Thanks for commenting, I find the M100 f2.8 a great lens, compact, fast, and with great IQ.

12-24-2014, 09:50 AM - 1 Like   #4862
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M75-150/4 (crop)
12-25-2014, 11:11 AM   #4863
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QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
You do want to be careful trying this, but it's designed to be changed by the user, i.e., no special knowledge or equipment required. The main thing is not dropping or scratching the screen. The instructions on focusingscreen.com are good enough to get you through it.

I'm not saying you should change yours, however. I happen to like the S-type screen but not everyone does. It gets darker than the stock screen with especially slow lenses, and some have claimed metering inaccuracy.

Diopter is unlikely to be the issue. If the diopter is off, the entire viewfinder will look out of focus.

Here's how I tested focusing screen alignment. Camera on tripod. Target is a printed page, camera at an angle to it so only a few lines are in focus. Looking through the VF, note which printed lines are the start, middle, and end of the in-focus area. Make an exposure and then compare. I suggest an aperture of f/3.5 or so, so that the VF image has a similar DOF to the output. Although you should probably also make an exposure wide open, to make sure focus shift isn't an issue (i.e., focus distance changing as lens is stopped down).
Hello...

Sorry for being long to answer...
i made many try and finally i realized :
1) Diaopter was totally OK --> problem did not come from there...
2) Many photos i made inside were really different on computer screen in comparison to what i saw with eye in the camera (K5)
3) Today i made a try : i realized that focus was always in front of the zone that seemed to be OK on my eye --> so i used the front-back focus option in the menu of the K5 --> i tried for example at +5 --> all photo were much better.

--> i think i should use an appropriate grid to determinate what is the best "front/back focus number" in the menu of the K5....when focus is ok, photos are really fabulous with this 50mm f1,4 (i mostly use it inside home at f2)

Thank for you help !

Lionel

---------- Post added 12-25-14 at 07:20 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
You do want to be careful trying this, but it's designed to be changed by the user, i.e., no special knowledge or equipment required. The main thing is not dropping or scratching the screen. The instructions on focusingscreen.com are good enough to get you through it.

I'm not saying you should change yours, however. I happen to like the S-type screen but not everyone does. It gets darker than the stock screen with especially slow lenses, and some have claimed metering inaccuracy.

Diopter is unlikely to be the issue. If the diopter is off, the entire viewfinder will look out of focus.

Here's how I tested focusing screen alignment. Camera on tripod. Target is a printed page, camera at an angle to it so only a few lines are in focus. Looking through the VF, note which printed lines are the start, middle, and end of the in-focus area. Make an exposure and then compare. I suggest an aperture of f/3.5 or so, so that the VF image has a similar DOF to the output. Although you should probably also make an exposure wide open, to make sure focus shift isn't an issue (i.e., focus distance changing as lens is stopped down).
thank you for your help...

i am thinking now about changing the focusingscreen but dont know which one to take...
moreover : when i will use another lens : should i change focusing screen for each différent lens ???

Lionel
12-25-2014, 05:15 PM   #4864
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Changing the focusing screen is not something I'd want to do that often. Glad you have your focus issues sorted out, although the fine focus adjustment is for autofocus.

12-26-2014, 05:31 AM - 3 Likes   #4865
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With the 135 f/3.5. This lens has impressed me quite a few times already

12-26-2014, 02:28 PM - 1 Like   #4866
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cabessius Quote
Another one, this afternoon with the SMC Pentax M 100mm f2.8 @f2.8
1/100s
ISO 100



Very likeable picture here. The 100 is so easy to like-it really delivers whether portrait type stuff or landscape work. I've sometimes found myself thinking that the 100 M 2.8 is the best lens I've ever shot (I used to shoot the Canon 100 2.8 macro with floating element-a very heralded and great lens that's hard to beat). Takanami's numbers show that at f16, of all things, this M 100 is in the company of the sharpest of the sharpest lenses. He flat out says it's in the top company of elite lenses at that stop. I skeptically tried, not long ago, a number of shots at f16 and found that Takanami is absolutely right. The lens is spectacular at that f stop. It really shifts to a new level of sharpness at that point. That's kind of strange behaviour for a lens in my experience since diffraction usually takes a small toll by then. It's phenomenal as an all around lens-and is very light and compact. It can more than take the place of a great and expensive fast 85 and fabulous hulking 135 in my opinion. I kind of wish it had the built in hood like the 135 and 200Ms though. Other than that, it's just about perfect.
12-26-2014, 03:49 PM   #4867
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QuoteOriginally posted by mglowe Quote
... I kind of wish it had the built in hood like the 135 and 200Ms though...
Thank you very much for your words, it would be perfect with a built-in hood. As a work around I use a 49-28 step-down ring permanently attached to the lens. It doesn't vignette at all and does the job.


Last edited by Cabessius; 12-26-2014 at 03:55 PM.
12-26-2014, 05:08 PM   #4868
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QuoteOriginally posted by Cabessius Quote
Thank you very much for your words, it would be perfect with a built-in hood. As a work around I use a 49-28 step-down ring permanently attached to the lens. It doesn't vignette at all and does the job.
OK, I'll try the step down ring approach. Does it work in bright sunlight as well as a traditional hood?
12-26-2014, 09:19 PM   #4869
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lauke_101 Quote
With the 135 f/3.5. This lens has impressed me quite a few times already
Well done!
12-27-2014, 02:19 AM   #4870
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QuoteOriginally posted by mglowe Quote
OK, I'll try the step down ring approach. Does it work in bright sunlight as well as a traditional hood?
Yes. It works.
I also use the same thing with my 50's and 55's (49-28 with the M and 52-28 with the K of course)
Didn't try with the 40
With the K 35mm the 52-28 vignettes so I use a 52-37 instead
And with the 28-24mm, a traditional petal hood.
12-28-2014, 11:42 AM   #4871
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I was revisiting some of my older shots with the M50/2, and coming to realize what a nice old lens it is


slight crop:
12-29-2014, 11:08 PM   #4872
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QuoteOriginally posted by paulh Quote
I was revisiting some of my older shots with the M50/2, and coming to realize what a nice old lens it is
Nice picture. Yes, a perfectly fine lens, and appropriately used, would not limit a good photographer; by the same token a rare super expensive lens is unlikely to help a poor photographer. It's the photographer who makes the picture..
12-30-2014, 01:02 PM - 7 Likes   #4873
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K5IIs+ M150f3.5 ( f8, 10 sn), Bosphorus Bridge, Istanbul

12-30-2014, 01:31 PM   #4874
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QuoteOriginally posted by turkiye2turkiye Quote
K5IIs+ M150f3.5 ( f8, 10 sn), Bosphorus Bridge, Istanbul

You are too good!
12-30-2014, 01:33 PM - 1 Like   #4875
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QuoteOriginally posted by turkiye2turkiye Quote
K5IIs+ M150f3.5 ( f8, 10 sn), Bosphorus Bridge, Istanbul

Excellent. You should submit this to the Pentax Forums Exclusive Gallery ... you'll get a top judge vote from me. TFS, J

Last edited by Jean Poitiers; 12-30-2014 at 01:54 PM. Reason: typo
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