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02-12-2017, 09:48 AM - 4 Likes   #5941
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M 50 1.4 at whatever is between f2.8 and 4 on the aperture ring. Still playing at how to best capture this kind of scene. Lot of purple and a bit of green fringing in the trees; tried to kill it off mostly with Lightroom and Photoshop. Kind of wanting an F or FA 50 Macro more than usual.

02-14-2017, 07:49 AM   #5942
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QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote

M 50 1.4 at whatever is between f2.8 and 4 on the aperture ring. Still playing at how to best capture this kind of scene. Lot of purple and a bit of green fringing in the trees; tried to kill it off mostly with Lightroom and Photoshop. Kind of wanting an F or FA 50 Macro more than usual.
Looks a little out of focus (unless you intended the trees to be oof) - this will accentuate the colour fringing which occurs in the oof regions (purple in front/green behind focus point). The aperture you used will also contribute via a shallow depth of field meaning many branches in from of and behind the focus point will be oof and therefore likely fringe. Stopped down, more branches will be in focus and less inclined to colour fringe.
02-14-2017, 08:26 AM   #5943
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When I had the trees in focus the snow basically disappeared from the resultant images. The goal was to try and capture the snow as it fell. I'm still really weak on capturing the image I wanted although perhaps the scene & subjects at hand didn't lend themselves to what I was trying to get in the end. My goal was to use an aperture that gave a focused depth of field great enough that a bunch of the snow was captured but not much of the background so the focus is on the snow itself. If I could do it again I'd probably keep bumping the aperture with the point of focus somewhere before the trees. So, a similar shot to what I posted, just with more snow in the focused field depth. Hopefully there's another snowy weekend day where I can get some time to do this kind of thing again soon.

Good to know about out of focus / depth of field aspects pumping up color fringing. Would a macro lens like I mentioned have helped with this issue?
02-14-2017, 09:04 AM   #5944
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It is more the age of the lens, rather than the type, that contributes to fringing. Modern coatings are much superior for use with digital sensors. I own two M's, a 400/5.6 and a 100/4 macro, and both serve up fringing at wider apertures. The M works best at f/11, which means I have to bump the ISO to get good shutter speeds, and I end up with noise, but noise is less noticeable at reasonable image sizes than green and purple highlights.

02-14-2017, 09:31 AM   #5945
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Is this really a coatings issue or more a design and the scene in question?

I wonder what suggested settings would have been from some of the good shooters would have been to capture the shot differently that I did. Goal was to capture snow falling and not the trees.
02-14-2017, 09:40 AM   #5946
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QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote
Goal was to capture snow falling and not the trees.
I think you achieved that pretty well. Some fringing is probably unavoidable given the wide aperture needed, and the high contrast background (trees against a bright sky). You might consider a monochrome conversion.
02-14-2017, 01:52 PM - 5 Likes   #5947
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02-15-2017, 04:29 AM   #5948
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
It is more the age of the lens, rather than the type, that contributes to fringing. Modern coatings are much superior for use with digital sensors. I own two M's, a 400/5.6 and a 100/4 macro, and both serve up fringing at wider apertures. The M works best at f/11, which means I have to bump the ISO to get good shutter speeds, and I end up with noise, but noise is less noticeable at reasonable image sizes than green and purple highlights.
Agreed, older lenses were not designed with strong aberration control at the top of the requirements list. I'm no lens design expert but I think we are talking longitudinal chromatic aberrations here. The degree of this aberration varies across the various M lenses. Though tree branches against the sky must be the world's worst subject for such fringing.

Of the small M series sample I have, the M135/3.5 likes to fringe in high contrast oof areas - to the point where you really have to choose the subject for the M135 reasonably carefully. Definitely not one for birds in trees. I now have two M200/4's. The M200/4 likes to fringe as confirmed by many of the reviews on this forum, but one of the two looks to be overall a better lens and is also better behaved than the other for fringing. The M120/2.8 is pretty well behaved - I like this lens quite a bit. The M50/1.7 green fringes somewhat when given the chance. Absolutely spot on focus will keep fringing to a minimum. I actually use fringing to aid live view focusing with M tele lenses, Green edges on the target = front focus, purple = back focused. No colours = proceed to take photo!

I suspect crop sensor dslr's emphasis this form of aberration as we are starting out with a moderately heavy crop from the full frame image area the M's were designed for, even before we do anything else. This will emphasis the fringing as we are effectively magnify its contribution to the captured image. I've just bought a K-1 and have yet to test drive the M family with it, but I am anticipating that fringing will be visually less significant when looking at the overall image and may well be further sampled away when down-sampling files for general image use.

---------- Post added 15th Feb 2017 at 09:05 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote
When I had the trees in focus the snow basically disappeared from the resultant images. The goal was to try and capture the snow as it fell. I'm still really weak on capturing the image I wanted although perhaps the scene & subjects at hand didn't lend themselves to what I was trying to get in the end. My goal was to use an aperture that gave a focused depth of field great enough that a bunch of the snow was captured but not much of the background so the focus is on the snow itself. If I could do it again I'd probably keep bumping the aperture with the point of focus somewhere before the trees. So, a similar shot to what I posted, just with more snow in the focused field depth. Hopefully there's another snowy weekend day where I can get some time to do this kind of thing again soon.

Good to know about out of focus / depth of field aspects pumping up color fringing. Would a macro lens like I mentioned have helped with this issue?
I did wonder if the snow was intentionally the focus point. One thought: use a small aperture, say F11, focus midway into the scene and then use flash while taking the image. The snow near the camera will be emphasised by the flash and F11 may give them some chance of being in focus as well as the background by the lens being somewhere around the hyperfocal focussing point. You may need to vary the flash power down to get the right balance. What makes me suggest this? Accidentally took an image in the rain with flash on, and got every raindrop close to the camera standing out like a dog's proverbials. Wasn't the look I wanted but the result is stuck in my memory.

Last edited by southlander; 02-15-2017 at 04:59 AM.
02-15-2017, 07:50 AM   #5949
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QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote
Is this really a coatings issue or more a design and the scene in question?
It's partly due to design and partly to the fact that the older lenses don't use low-dispersion glass. The old SMC coatings are actually pretty good --- certainly adequate for most of the older lenses, which tend to be primes which don't use a whole lot of glass. For example, the M 400 f5.6 uses 5 elements in 5 groups, while the M 100 f4 uses 5 elements in 3 groups; in contrast to that, the DFA 100 f2.8 and the FA* 400 f5.6 (which uses extra low dispersion glass) both feature 9 elements in 8 groups. Computer design, combined with special glass elements, helped dramatically improve CA control of longer glass. Improved coatings allow for the use of more glass in design for greater flexibility.
02-15-2017, 08:28 AM   #5950
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Okay, so if I can get another chance at this, I'll pop the flash and see what happens. Run an aperture that provides increased depth of field and will increase all-over image quality. Trying to keep trees somewhat soft so the focus stays on the snow. Consider spending money on another lens, because really, what problem isn't solved by buying more hardware (this is somewhat tongue in cheek although it really seems like a 50mm macro, like the D-FA or A 50's would be nice for this kind of thing and general use as well).

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02-16-2017, 04:51 PM - 6 Likes   #5951
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02-18-2017, 08:28 PM - 2 Likes   #5952
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M 50/1.7 on the K-5iis
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02-20-2017, 07:09 AM - 3 Likes   #5953
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I have been using Zoner Photo Studio for a long time. Well, it's the only editor I have really used. Previously it's been reasonably priced, but the latest version is with monthly subscription, which I don't really appreciate, so I'm currently stuck with old version. Downloaded capture one 10 to test other editors to see if I'm missing something and if I should chance the editor. Capture one seem to offer so many ways to handle colors that it takes some time to learn the best practices. These are the first pictures edited with capture one. I like them, but a bit worried that I pushed them too far and they don't look natural anymore.

M50/1.7:



M50/1.7:



M28/3.5:

02-20-2017, 09:34 AM   #5954
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iheiramo, I think the last pic of the three you posted came out quite nicely. The other two are a little extreme perhaps. I like the shots either way.
02-20-2017, 10:17 AM - 1 Like   #5955
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Are you guys talking about fringing using Lightroom, and if so, are you using the lens correction feature? I agree that longer focal length K and M lenses are definitely prone to CA, both pink and green, but the eye dropper tool seems to fix it fairly well in the most recent version of LR.

At any rate, here's one taken with the venerable M85/2

Brilliance taken with Pentax K-1 and M85/2 by Jason Doss, on Flickr
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