The M Club!

**iheiramo** · 06-20-2018, 10:35 AM

Originally posted by pres589

That M*300 seems like a very nice lens, as I would expect of a star lens from Pentax.

No, I soon abandoned the CIF-in-the-bar tactic, and went back to normal manual focusing with AF indication of when I was in-focus, although that still wasn't always so reliable. Honestly I'm quite surprised at how well you seem to do with manual focus lenses on cameras like the K-30. My success rate was not nearly so high.

Routine I guess. I've been shooting for last year and half almost exclusively with M series lenses. DA21ltd being the exception and even that I use in M mode and often in manual focus. K30 is a good camera. Lacks a bit in build quality, but IQ wise it's as good as K5. AF is better. Also PP program and skills effect final output. C1 was expensive, but produce impressive results.

There's a reason for that star in 300. I like that it's quite compact for 300mm FF lens and quite reasonably priced to be such long quality glass.

**iheiramo** · 06-20-2018, 10:51 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by LensBeginner

OTOH, moving the focus ring while keeping the shutter depressed, eh... not so sure about it.

I do that all the time. It's no problem when your exposure is fast enough.

HoutHans · 06-20-2018, 01:13 PM

I should try CIF as well some day, but I grew up with MF, so focussing manually has become second nature. Indeed some very nice photos repaap, the last one in particularisme.

LensBeginner · 06-20-2018, 03:43 PM

Originally posted by repaap

Thank you !

Also try magnified LV, to me it's so much better than the optical viewfinder... everything is much bigger and clearer, especially with auto-gain.

rooklv · 06-20-2018, 06:44 PM

Originally posted by pres589

I tried Catch In Focus on my K-5 II with a couple manual primes and I think I got about 50% shots, max, that were actually in focus. I think if a person is gentle with the focusing and starts pretty close to in-focus before activating the AF/shutter, it can work okay, but not great. In My Experience. Your mileage may vary.

M 50 f1.4 can be pretty fun for portraits, and on a camera like the K-5 II with decent high-ISO performance, can make light appear out of nowhere. I'm going to start looking for an M 85 f2 in a few months or so to round out my film kit.

I have never gotten catch in focus to actually fire. I'm probably doing something wrong but also never really wanted to figure it out. I find it more useful to learn what in focus looks like in the view finder. My astigmatism doesn't help but if I get my eye where it needs to be and keep it there I can manage. Thinking about getting a eye cup to see if that helps if I can source one.

**iheiramo** · 06-20-2018, 11:11 PM

Winsurfing once more. This time the start with M35/2.

Gathering to the start line:

Timing is everything. It's difficult to stay in place and remain in the best spot. One is at severe risk of going over start line:

Race is on:

Time to hook the harness:

Into proper riding position to get boards gliding:

Then just ride upwind as fast as possible:

Jonathan Mac · 06-21-2018, 12:15 AM - **3 Likes**

M 85mm f/2 on Fujifilm X-M1

DSCF4103a by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

DSCF4104a by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

**iheiramo** · 06-21-2018, 01:23 AM

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

M 85mm f/2 on Fujifilm X-M1

I'm pretty sure that with DSRL the second shot would be full of PF. I've heard thet with film it wasn't such an issue, but this is the first time I see it with my own eyes. Nice work.

**paulh** · 06-21-2018, 06:56 AM - **4 Likes**

M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:

**Canada_Rockies** · 06-21-2018, 08:44 AM

Originally posted by paulh

M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:

The last time that happened to me, it was a metre deep in a swamp. I knew where it was because it was right beside the tripod with the 400 aimed at a great blue heron.

Jorgario · 06-21-2018, 10:17 AM

Originally posted by paulh

M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:

You got a very nice picture with a very ugly element !! Congratulations !!

**onlineflyer** · 06-21-2018, 10:20 AM

Originally posted by paulh

M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:

Paul, you need to put that lens back in your rotation.

**paulh** · 06-21-2018, 11:44 AM

Originally posted by Canada_Rockies

The last time that happened to me, it was a metre deep in a swamp. I knew where it was because it was right beside the tripod with the 400 aimed at a great blue heron.

Originally posted by Jorgario

ou got a very nice picture with a very ugly element !! Congratulations !!

Originally posted by onlineflyer

Paul, you need to put that lens back in your rotation.

Thanks guys, it's a seriously competent lens I need to put to more use. As always, it's all about the lighting, especially in that shot.

Jonathan Mac · 06-21-2018, 11:46 PM

Originally posted by iheiramo

I'm pretty sure that with DSRL the second shot would be full of PF. I've heard thet with film it wasn't such an issue, but this is the first time I see it with my own eyes. Nice work.

I'm not fully sure I understand - the X-M1 is a mirrorless camera with APS-C sensor, I mostly use it as my walk-around camera as it's so small and light and I can adapt just about all my other lenses for it.

At f/3.5 the M 85mm is sharp and with very, very little in the way of aberrations. Most of the blue fringing disappears by f/2.8 but there's still a little, so I stop down a bit further when IQ is more important than shallow DoF or shutter speed.

**iheiramo** · 06-21-2018, 11:57 PM

Originally posted by Jonathan Mac

I'm not fully sure I understand - the X-M1 is a mirrorless camera with APS-C sensor

My bad. Thought it was film, not camera, you have used to shoot. But therefore even more surprised there is no PF, as in my experince PF is quite heavy in 85 and all those OOF highlights offer potential for fringing.

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06-20-2018, 10:35 AM	#6721
iheiramo Unoriginal Poster Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Espoo Photos: Albums Posts: 3,182	Originally posted by pres589 That M*300 seems like a very nice lens, as I would expect of a star lens from Pentax. No, I soon abandoned the CIF-in-the-bar tactic, and went back to normal manual focusing with AF indication of when I was in-focus, although that still wasn't always so reliable. Honestly I'm quite surprised at how well you seem to do with manual focus lenses on cameras like the K-30. My success rate was not nearly so high. Routine I guess. I've been shooting for last year and half almost exclusively with M series lenses. DA21ltd being the exception and even that I use in M mode and often in manual focus. K30 is a good camera. Lacks a bit in build quality, but IQ wise it's as good as K5. AF is better. Also PP program and skills effect final output. C1 was expensive, but produce impressive results. There's a reason for that star in 300. I like that it's quite compact for 300mm FF lens and quite reasonably priced to be such long quality glass.

06-20-2018, 10:51 AM - 1 Like	#6722
iheiramo Unoriginal Poster Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Espoo Photos: Albums Posts: 3,182	Originally posted by LensBeginner OTOH, moving the focus ring while keeping the shutter depressed, eh... not so sure about it. I do that all the time. It's no problem when your exposure is fast enough.

06-20-2018, 01:13 PM	#6723
HoutHans Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Appingedam Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,119	I should try CIF as well some day, but I grew up with MF, so focussing manually has become second nature. Indeed some very nice photos repaap, the last one in particularisme.

06-20-2018, 03:43 PM	#6724
LensBeginner Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Photos: Albums Posts: 4,696	Originally posted by repaap Thank you ! Also try magnified LV, to me it's so much better than the optical viewfinder... everything is much bigger and clearer, especially with auto-gain.

06-20-2018, 06:44 PM	#6725
rooklv New Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: VIVA LAS VEGAS! Posts: 16	Originally posted by pres589 I tried Catch In Focus on my K-5 II with a couple manual primes and I think I got about 50% shots, max, that were actually in focus. I think if a person is gentle with the focusing and starts pretty close to in-focus before activating the AF/shutter, it can work okay, but not great. In My Experience. Your mileage may vary. M 50 f1.4 can be pretty fun for portraits, and on a camera like the K-5 II with decent high-ISO performance, can make light appear out of nowhere. I'm going to start looking for an M 85 f2 in a few months or so to round out my film kit. I have never gotten catch in focus to actually fire. I'm probably doing something wrong but also never really wanted to figure it out. I find it more useful to learn what in focus looks like in the view finder. My astigmatism doesn't help but if I get my eye where it needs to be and keep it there I can manage. Thinking about getting a eye cup to see if that helps if I can source one.

06-20-2018, 11:11 PM	#6726
iheiramo Unoriginal Poster Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Espoo Photos: Albums Posts: 3,182	Winsurfing once more. This time the start with M35/2. Gathering to the start line: Timing is everything. It's difficult to stay in place and remain in the best spot. One is at severe risk of going over start line: Race is on: Time to hook the harness: Into proper riding position to get boards gliding: Then just ride upwind as fast as possible:

06-21-2018, 12:15 AM - 3 Likes	#6727
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897	M 85mm f/2 on Fujifilm X-M1 DSCF4103a by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr DSCF4104a by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr

06-21-2018, 01:23 AM	#6728
iheiramo Unoriginal Poster Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Espoo Photos: Albums Posts: 3,182	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac M 85mm f/2 on Fujifilm X-M1 I'm pretty sure that with DSRL the second shot would be full of PF. I've heard thet with film it wasn't such an issue, but this is the first time I see it with my own eyes. Nice work.

06-21-2018, 06:56 AM - 4 Likes	#6729
paulh Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: DFW Texas/Ventura County, CA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 33,262	M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:

06-21-2018, 08:44 AM	#6730
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	Originally posted by paulh M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D: The last time that happened to me, it was a metre deep in a swamp. I knew where it was because it was right beside the tripod with the 400 aimed at a great blue heron.

06-21-2018, 10:17 AM	#6731
Jorgario Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: San José Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,769	Originally posted by paulh M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D: You got a very nice picture with a very ugly element !! Congratulations !!

06-21-2018, 10:20 AM	#6732
onlineflyer Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: NW Ohio Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,091	Originally posted by paulh M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D: Paul, you need to put that lens back in your rotation.

06-21-2018, 11:44 AM	#6733
paulh Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: DFW Texas/Ventura County, CA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 33,262	Originally posted by Canada_Rockies The last time that happened to me, it was a metre deep in a swamp. I knew where it was because it was right beside the tripod with the 400 aimed at a great blue heron. Originally posted by Jorgario ou got a very nice picture with a very ugly element !! Congratulations !! Originally posted by onlineflyer Paul, you need to put that lens back in your rotation. Thanks guys, it's a seriously competent lens I need to put to more use. As always, it's all about the lighting, especially in that shot.

06-21-2018, 11:46 PM	#6734
Jonathan Mac Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Madrid, Spain Posts: 10,897	Originally posted by iheiramo I'm pretty sure that with DSRL the second shot would be full of PF. I've heard thet with film it wasn't such an issue, but this is the first time I see it with my own eyes. Nice work. I'm not fully sure I understand - the X-M1 is a mirrorless camera with APS-C sensor, I mostly use it as my walk-around camera as it's so small and light and I can adapt just about all my other lenses for it. At f/3.5 the M 85mm is sharp and with very, very little in the way of aberrations. Most of the blue fringing disappears by f/2.8 but there's still a little, so I stop down a bit further when IQ is more important than shallow DoF or shutter speed.

06-21-2018, 11:57 PM	#6735
iheiramo Unoriginal Poster Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Espoo Photos: Albums Posts: 3,182	Originally posted by Jonathan Mac I'm not fully sure I understand - the X-M1 is a mirrorless camera with APS-C sensor My bad. Thought it was film, not camera, you have used to shoot. But therefore even more surprised there is no PF, as in my experince PF is quite heavy in 85 and all those OOF highlights offer potential for fringing.