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06-20-2018, 10:35 AM   #6721
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QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote
That M*300 seems like a very nice lens, as I would expect of a star lens from Pentax.

No, I soon abandoned the CIF-in-the-bar tactic, and went back to normal manual focusing with AF indication of when I was in-focus, although that still wasn't always so reliable. Honestly I'm quite surprised at how well you seem to do with manual focus lenses on cameras like the K-30. My success rate was not nearly so high.
Routine I guess. I've been shooting for last year and half almost exclusively with M series lenses. DA21ltd being the exception and even that I use in M mode and often in manual focus. K30 is a good camera. Lacks a bit in build quality, but IQ wise it's as good as K5. AF is better. Also PP program and skills effect final output. C1 was expensive, but produce impressive results.

There's a reason for that star in 300. I like that it's quite compact for 300mm FF lens and quite reasonably priced to be such long quality glass.

06-20-2018, 10:51 AM - 1 Like   #6722
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QuoteOriginally posted by LensBeginner Quote
OTOH, moving the focus ring while keeping the shutter depressed, eh... not so sure about it.
I do that all the time. It's no problem when your exposure is fast enough.
06-20-2018, 01:13 PM   #6723
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I should try CIF as well some day, but I grew up with MF, so focussing manually has become second nature. Indeed some very nice photos repaap, the last one in particularisme.
06-20-2018, 03:43 PM   #6724
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QuoteOriginally posted by repaap Quote
Thank you !
Also try magnified LV, to me it's so much better than the optical viewfinder... everything is much bigger and clearer, especially with auto-gain.

06-20-2018, 06:44 PM   #6725
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QuoteOriginally posted by pres589 Quote
I tried Catch In Focus on my K-5 II with a couple manual primes and I think I got about 50% shots, max, that were actually in focus. I think if a person is gentle with the focusing and starts pretty close to in-focus before activating the AF/shutter, it can work okay, but not great. In My Experience. Your mileage may vary.

M 50 f1.4 can be pretty fun for portraits, and on a camera like the K-5 II with decent high-ISO performance, can make light appear out of nowhere. I'm going to start looking for an M 85 f2 in a few months or so to round out my film kit.
I have never gotten catch in focus to actually fire. I'm probably doing something wrong but also never really wanted to figure it out. I find it more useful to learn what in focus looks like in the view finder. My astigmatism doesn't help but if I get my eye where it needs to be and keep it there I can manage. Thinking about getting a eye cup to see if that helps if I can source one.
06-20-2018, 11:11 PM   #6726
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Winsurfing once more. This time the start with M35/2.

Gathering to the start line:


Timing is everything. It's difficult to stay in place and remain in the best spot. One is at severe risk of going over start line:


Race is on:


Time to hook the harness:


Into proper riding position to get boards gliding:


Then just ride upwind as fast as possible:
06-21-2018, 12:15 AM - 3 Likes   #6727
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M 85mm f/2 on Fujifilm X-M1


DSCF4103a
by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr


DSCF4104a
by Jonathan MacDonald, on Flickr
06-21-2018, 01:23 AM   #6728
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
M 85mm f/2 on Fujifilm X-M1
I'm pretty sure that with DSRL the second shot would be full of PF. I've heard thet with film it wasn't such an issue, but this is the first time I see it with my own eyes. Nice work.

06-21-2018, 06:56 AM - 4 Likes   #6729
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M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:
06-21-2018, 08:44 AM   #6730
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QuoteOriginally posted by paulh Quote
M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:
The last time that happened to me, it was a metre deep in a swamp. I knew where it was because it was right beside the tripod with the 400 aimed at a great blue heron.
06-21-2018, 10:17 AM   #6731
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QuoteOriginally posted by paulh Quote
M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:
You got a very nice picture with a very ugly element !! Congratulations !!
06-21-2018, 10:20 AM   #6732
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QuoteOriginally posted by paulh Quote
M35-70/2.8-3.5 on *ist D:
Paul, you need to put that lens back in your rotation.
06-21-2018, 11:44 AM   #6733
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
The last time that happened to me, it was a metre deep in a swamp. I knew where it was because it was right beside the tripod with the 400 aimed at a great blue heron.
QuoteOriginally posted by Jorgario Quote
ou got a very nice picture with a very ugly element !! Congratulations !!
QuoteOriginally posted by onlineflyer Quote
Paul, you need to put that lens back in your rotation.
Thanks guys, it's a seriously competent lens I need to put to more use. As always, it's all about the lighting, especially in that shot.
06-21-2018, 11:46 PM   #6734
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QuoteOriginally posted by iheiramo Quote
I'm pretty sure that with DSRL the second shot would be full of PF. I've heard thet with film it wasn't such an issue, but this is the first time I see it with my own eyes. Nice work.
I'm not fully sure I understand - the X-M1 is a mirrorless camera with APS-C sensor, I mostly use it as my walk-around camera as it's so small and light and I can adapt just about all my other lenses for it.

At f/3.5 the M 85mm is sharp and with very, very little in the way of aberrations. Most of the blue fringing disappears by f/2.8 but there's still a little, so I stop down a bit further when IQ is more important than shallow DoF or shutter speed.
06-21-2018, 11:57 PM   #6735
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jonathan Mac Quote
I'm not fully sure I understand - the X-M1 is a mirrorless camera with APS-C sensor
My bad. Thought it was film, not camera, you have used to shoot. But therefore even more surprised there is no PF, as in my experince PF is quite heavy in 85 and all those OOF highlights offer potential for fringing.
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