[mel]

Mel, incredible shot and I guess this is some sea animals housing.

Thanks Georg the other. It's a seabiscuit. I think. I have some random shells that I use for playing around with macro and lights and junk. I always get them out when I'm experimenting.

This is one of my twins. I was playing with lighting some more. He's playing his gameboy so he'd hold still. I'm really liking this Helios 44 for portrait work.

[richard64]

There's been some great photos in this thread from the Helios 44M. I did a search of various online auction sites, and found that there are several different versions, so I thought I would pick the brains of the experts here as to which is the best to get.

This is what I have found out. The version is often given as Helios 44M-x where x is the version number. 2, 4 and 7 seem to be the versions most often for sale. Version 44M-4 and later are auto diaphragm and multi-coated, but no A/M switch. Apparently, 5, 6 and 7 are still in production and vary by the resolving power of the lens, 7 being the best (this sounds more like a QC issue). Before 4 the lens was preset and not multi-coated. However, some lenses I have seen are marked just Helios 44M (no version number) but don't appear to have the extra aperture ring for the preset operation, so I assume that these are auto diaphragm.

Anyway, what is the consensus about which version to get?

Richard

[georgweb]

Richard,
I think all you need to know has been covered in this thread,
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/42222-helios-44m.html

About the IQ ever 5% better with each version, this is pure marketing from the manufacturer imho. As Figmental had a hard time with the early version with very narrow connection to the cam, you might go for any of the later versions. This might be dictated by what kind of adapter you have got and if you are comfortable with such narrow lenses. If so and you are looking for macro bokeh (I know you do :-) then the early preset versions might be worth a try cause they have more aperture blades for a better closed-down bokeh.

Best, Georg (the other)

[richard64]

Richard,
I think all you need to know has been covered in this thread,

Thanks Georg. I had read that thread when it first appeared, and forgot completely about it!

If so and you are looking for macro bokeh (I know you do :-) then the early preset versions might be worth a try cause they have more aperture blades for a better closed-down bokeh.

I may well get two, a preset and an auto-diaphragm, just so that I can get the advantages of each. The only problem is that they usually come with a bulky rear lens cap (called "a Zenit", apparently) and so I may end up with more of those than I need

Richard

I love my 44M (no extra - x's) - would not trade it. I can only vouch for it, but I do so whole heartedly...

[suro]

Helios 40-2 VS Pentax 77mm /1.8 limited:

1. Helios 40-2, f1.5


2. Pentax 77mm /1.8 limited, f1.8


3. Helios 40-2, f2.0


4. Pentax 77mm /1.8 limited, f2.0

[Chip]

I collected some older Soviet lenses over the years:

[Rense]

This one is made with my Jupiter-9, which I own since yesterday.... It's my first Russian!

[georgweb]

Rense,
congrats for the Jup9, good tones in your picture.

Chip,
could you evaluate a little on the Tair11 133/2.8 ? Maybe compared to other 135/2.8 lenses ?

Thanks for posting all,
Georg (the other)

[melander]

Does the Helios-40 M39 got the 45.46mm Focal distance like pentax, or is it a 25mm m39?

Intrested if its poss to use it on my pentax without loosing to much long end focus

[Voe]

Helios-40 has 45.46mm mount register. You can put this lens on Pentax by using a cheap M39 to M49 screw ring and then M42 to Kmount adapter and you can focus to infinity, just.

[brkl]

I have a Mir-1V which I used as a standard on my K10D for a bit, but abandoned after I got the FA35. Now I've found myself owning a Spotmatic II (it came with a wonderful though yellow Tak 50mm 1.4), and shot a roll of film with the Jupiter 9 and Mir-1v. However, apparently the Mir-1v goes too far into the camera, even though it's M42 like the Spotmatic. The focus dial points to the left, and you can see the result in a photo I'll attach to this.

Does anyone know how I could fix this? Is there a nice M42 camera that would work well with the Mir-1v? I've read about Zenits, and I don't really like what I hear... I really loved using the lens with the Spotmatic.

[georgweb]

Hi brkl and welcome to the forum,
nice snowoman :-)

Your photo shows vignetting (=dark corners), and I have only seen this when there is something put on the front of the lens which is too narrow (step rings, filter rings, lens shades).

I'm guessing the same lens setup does not vignette on the K10D, which is just what happens with a reduced image circle.

About the lens 'overscrewing', if the mirror does not slap on the lens at the long end, I'd just leave it like that.

Hope I guessed it right,
Georg (the other)

edit: Here's a ways to check vignetting on your setup before loading the film.

[brkl]

Well, this is why I immediately thought overscrewing -- the mirror did sometimes get stuck after taking a photo, and I'd have to slap the camera for it to come down. That, and the markings pointing to the left and not up.

But now that you mention it, I have been using a shade that's fine if the lens is functioning as a standard, but maybe not wide-angle... And that mirror thing could be something else. I'll have to check. Thanks!

[Shamwow]

I just won this lens on eBay. I searched all over the web, even enlisting a Ukranian co-worker to help translate some Russian web pages for me, but I couldn't find anything about it. I found no record or it ever being made, which only added to my desire to win it. It kind of looks like a Tair-11A, but I am not sure. Does anybody know any history of Zenitar lenses (besides how much they like their 16/2.8)? I haven't received it yet, so I know absolutely nothing about it. It might not even be Russian for all I know.

Any information would be interesting.

Thanks,