[tim60]

Look into the Takumar 200mm f3.5 (unless you do not prefer preset lenses). I really like mine and they seem to be highly regarded by most owners.
Best.

Agree.

[BruceBanner]

Look into the Takumar 200mm f3.5 (unless you do not prefer preset lenses). I really like mine and they seem to be highly regarded by most owners.
Best.

Hi, um what do you mean by this part a highlighted? preset lenses?

Thanks!

BB

[ivanvernon]

Auto focus has broken on my K-10, so I have turned it into my Takumar platform. Here is the Takumar 50mm f 1.4 with the K-10. I need to practice more with this kit because I missed focus on almost half my shots today.

[BruceBanner]

Auto focus has broken on my K-1, so I have turned it into my Takumar platform. Here is the Takumar 50mm f 1.4 with the K-1. I need to practice more with this kit because I missed focus on almost half my shots today.

Nice job.

Don't mistake limitations of the camera and optics and your skill as a photographer. The OVF on the K-1 is not like some film cameras, the focus feedback of the focusing screen just isn't there at all for certain distances. It takes just time to know what aperture and distance to subject you can use that will have a strong likelihood of successful focus. With longer distances I highly recommend you use the Live View screen and magnification.

In summary I can nail f1.4 with a Tak 50 if the focus subject is up to say 2m away. After that distance it becomes harder. To combat this I stop down the further the subject is away, f2-4 for distances 7m+ away, and beyond that its Live View focusing time. I also use a Tenpa 1.22 magnifier which helps somewhat. There is just a point that you can stare down the OVF, have 1.4 or f2 selected and rotate the focus ring and not really see any feedback that is helpful in determining focus, that's not you, that's the systems fault. You cannot get 'better' at that range, you have to adapt instead and change focus methods.

[ivanvernon]

Nice job.

Don't mistake limitations of the camera and optics and your skill as a photographer. The OVF on the K-1 is not like some film cameras, the focus feedback of the focusing screen just isn't there at all for certain distances. It takes just time to know what aperture and distance to subject you can use that will have a strong likelihood of successful focus. With longer distances I highly recommend you use the Live View screen and magnification.

In summary I can nail f1.4 with a Tak 50 if the focus subject is up to say 2m away. After that distance it becomes harder. To combat this I stop down the further the subject is away, f2-4 for distances 7m+ away, and beyond that its Live View focusing time. I also use a Tenpa 1.22 magnifier which helps somewhat. There is just a point that you can stare down the OVF, have 1.4 or f2 selected and rotate the focus ring and not really see any feedback that is helpful in determining focus, that's not you, that's the systems fault. You cannot get 'better' at that range, you have to adapt instead and change focus methods.

Thanks for these tips. I will work on putting them in practice.

[ivanvernon]

Thanks for these tips. I will work on putting them in practice.

In trying to implement your suggestions, I have come to a road block in that I am unable to locate live view on my copy of the K-10. I am wondering if I have a very early model that was produced without this particular feature, or perhaps you could provide me with a step-by-step set of instruction on how you engage access it on the K-10.

[BruceBanner]

In trying to implement your suggestions, I have come to a road block in that I am unable to locate live view on my copy of the K-10. I am wondering if I have a very early model that was produced without this particular feature, or perhaps you could provide me with a step-by-step set of instruction on how you engage access it on the K-10.

Ah my bad, you may have mentioned K-1 earlier in your post and it missed a '0' on the end. Indeed you may only have OVF with the K-10 I don't know.

[ivanvernon]

Ah my bad, you may have mentioned K-1 earlier in your post and it missed a '0' on the end. Indeed you may only have OVF with the K-10 I don't know.

Yes, you are perfectly correct. I wrote K-1 when I meant K-10. My K-1 does have live view, which I have not used as much as I should have.

[BruceBanner]

A walk around the block with the K-1 & Tak 50/1.4 (8).

[Dartmoor Dave]

I have come to a road block in that I am unable to locate live view on my copy of the K-10. I am wondering if I have a very early model that was produced without this particular feature, or perhaps you could provide me with a step-by-step set of instruction on how you engage access it on the K-10.

Nope, there's no live view or video on the K10D because the CCD sensor would overheat. But to my mind it's a small price to pay for the sumptuous colour rendering.

[Dartmoor Dave]

Hi, um what do you mean by this part a highlighted? preset lenses?

It's one of the older methods of aperture control used on some of the earlier Takumars. The lens has got two aperture rings, one with click stops and one without. You set the ring with the click stops to the aperture you want to shoot at, then turn the other ring to wide open to focus and compose. When you're ready to shoot, you turn the clickless ring to stop it down again and it stops at the aperture that you've preset on the ring with the click stops.

It's a lot easier to use than it sounds.

[Dartmoor Dave]

The daymark near Kingswear with the defished 17mm. It's a daytime navigation marker built in the 19th Century.

[ivanvernon]

Nope, there's no live view or video on the K10D because the CCD sensor would overheat. But to my mind it's a small price to pay for the sumptuous colour rendering.

I gave this K-10 to my daughter several years ago, and she recently returned it because the AF no longer worked. I am just now becoming reacquainted with it, and enjoying the experience of reunion with my first digital camera! I plan to use it for my Takumars, but try some other lenses as well. I have not totally forgotten its gorgeous color rendering since I have a 645D with that same type of sensor.

---------- Post added 12-03-19 at 08:16 AM ----------

It's one of the older methods of aperture control used on some of the earlier Takumars. The lens has got two aperture rings, one with click stops and one without. You set the ring with the click stops to the aperture you want to shoot at, then turn the other ring to wide open to focus and compose. When you're ready to shoot, you turn the clickless ring to stop it down again and it stops at the aperture that you've preset on the ring with the click stops.

It's a lot easier to use than it sounds.

They are easy to use once you understand how they work, but the first one I had sure was confusing to me!

[Charlie Victor]

Hi, um what do you mean by this part a highlighted? preset lenses?

Thanks!

BB

I see @Dartmoor Dave and @ivanvernon have beaten me to the draw! I hope that answered your question.
Best.

[BruceBanner]

It's one of the older methods of aperture control used on some of the earlier Takumars. The lens has got two aperture rings, one with click stops and one without. You set the ring with the click stops to the aperture you want to shoot at, then turn the other ring to wide open to focus and compose. When you're ready to shoot, you turn the clickless ring to stop it down again and it stops at the aperture that you've preset on the ring with the click stops.

It's a lot easier to use than it sounds.

Ah, that's the A/M switch? I think the intention is for it to allows enough light in to see what you're doing as the more stopped down you go with these lenses the darker it gets? I've played a bit with it on the tak 50, the only gripe I have is the switch is recessed in such a way that its quite hard for me to toggle it