[niceshot]

So what's involved in converting an S1 to another mount?
Can *any* S1 serve as a donor for any other S1?
Or does it have to be the exact same model to pull it off?

Michael

depends on the original mount , Nikon to Pentax should be easy as the registration distance is almost identical where as Minolta requires a lathe and know how

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Last edited by niceshot; 03-20-2016 at 02:27 PM. Reason: mis spelling

[fwcetus]

So what's involved in converting an S1 to another mount?
Can *any* S1 serve as a donor for any other S1?
Or does it have to be the exact same model to pull it off?
Michael

I suspect that it might have to be quite model-specific, considering the number of Vivitar (including VS1) lenses having been manufactured by the several different contractors, each of which would likely have implemented its own engineering -- all of which is not to say that it might not still be possible - at least once in a while - to use parts from one Vivitar model from one particular manufacturer to refit the mount of a different model from that same manufacturer.

[However, like most of my "armchair engineering exploits", the bottom line here is "Dunno" - .]

[niceshot]

check out the impossible lens club, you will get the Idea.But it seem like there are not many k mount lens on E bay any more so it become a necessity.

[ultraviolet]

Schefflera young leaf

[niceshot]

Schefflera young leaf

converters degrades image quality

[goatsNdonkey]

Well, I'm the new proud owner of a Vivitar (Cosina) Series 1 24-70mm f3.8-4.8 VMC Macro Focusing (really only 1:5 close focusing) Zoom. I'd been looking for an inexpensive lens wider than 28mm for some time and decided to take a chance on this untested one, that came attached to a Pentax ZX-5 body for under $15, + shipping. It looked pretty good in the pictures.

Well, it turns out that it works, but has some condition issues. When I took it off of the XN-5, I discovered that the aperture was stuck open, but, after working the ring a while, it suddenly started working and seems very snappy.

Then, I discovered that I didn't know how to get it to zoom. Focusing worked freely and smoothly, but nothing seemed to make the lens zoom. It turned out that it was frozen just north of 35mm. With some effort, I've gotten it to slide all the way in, to 24mm, and out to somewhere near about 45mm or so, but no farther. I knew a guy who said all the speedometer numbers above 40mph were rusted on his Corvair because it never went that fast -- perhaps the former owner of this lens only used the wider angle part of the zoom range???

I figure old dried up lubrication is causing the problem, although I have much older lenses without any similar problem. I'll keep working the zoom sleeve, but I'm not sure if I'm going to make much more progress. If it weren't a camera lens, I'd consider squirting WD40 into it. Is there any sort of dry lube that could be used? Would careful warming of the lens help to soften the old lube? I'm not sure I'm brave enough to try to take the lens apart, though I'll consider any suggestions.

The lens says it has a "PK-A/R" mount. If fits easily and snugly on my K110D dslr. I like being able to test it on my dslr, though I'll have to put it on a film body to get the full 24mm effect. My first tests at the focal lengths I can get find it working reasonably well. If it stops raining outside, I can try for some pix worth posting.

I am guessing that the close-focusing "Macro" part of the focusing range can only be accessed from the 70mm focal length, which I don't yet have -- probably the biggest downside of the zooming problem. An additional less-serious issue, is that the skylight filter that came with the lens won't come off allowing me to clean dust off of the inside of it and the outside of the front element.

[niceshot]

Well, I'm the new proud owner of a Vivitar (Cosina) Series 1 24-70mm f3.8-4.8 VMC Macro Focusing (really only 1:5 close focusing) Zoom. I'd been looking for an inexpensive lens wider than 28mm for some time and decided to take a chance on this untested one, that came attached to a Pentax ZX-5 body for under $15, + shipping. It looked pretty good in the pictures.

Well, it turns out that it works, but has some condition issues. When I took it off of the XN-5, I discovered that the aperture was stuck open, but, after working the ring a while, it suddenly started working and seems very snappy.

Then, I discovered that I didn't know how to get it to zoom. Focusing worked freely and smoothly, but nothing seemed to make the lens zoom. It turned out that it was frozen just north of 35mm. With some effort, I've gotten it to slide all the way in, to 24mm, and out to somewhere near about 45mm or so, but no farther. I knew a guy who said all the speedometer numbers above 40mph were rusted on his Corvair because it never went that fast -- perhaps the former owner of this lens only used the wider angle part of the zoom range???

I figure old dried up lubrication is causing the problem, although I have much older lenses without any similar problem. I'll keep working the zoom sleeve, but I'm not sure if I'm going to make much more progress. If it weren't a camera lens, I'd consider squirting WD40 into it. Is there any sort of dry lube that could be used? Would careful warming of the lens help to soften the old lube? I'm not sure I'm brave enough to try to take the lens apart, though I'll consider any suggestions.

The lens says it has a "PK-A/R" mount. If fits easily and snugly on my K110D dslr. I like being able to test it on my dslr, though I'll have to put it on a film body to get the full 24mm effect. My first tests at the focal lengths I can get find it working reasonably well. If it stops raining outside, I can try for some pix worth posting.

I am guessing that the close-focusing "Macro" part of the focusing range can only be accessed from the 70mm focal length, which I don't yet have -- probably the biggest downside of the zooming problem. An additional less-serious issue, is that the skylight filter that came with the lens won't come off allowing me to clean dust off of the inside of it and the outside of the front element.

you might be able to access the adjustment screws and a very small amount of w-d40 by removing the rubber focusing grip

[goatsNdonkey]

niceshot, thanks for the tip. I'll take a look under the rubber and see what's there. Perhaps even just a slight loosening of screws will stop the binding.

[niceshot]

Just be careful cause you can inadvertently loose the helicoil

[goatsNdonkey]

I did try to slightly loosen some screws to see if that might affect whatever was binding, but it had no noticeable effect and I retightened them. After removing the rubber grip, I found that there was a heavy double-sided tape under it, and removing it let me take off a metal sleeve. That gave me a bit better look at what was underneath, but not really a clear clue about where things are sticking and what needs cleaning/lubing.

The more I work the zoom slide the more range comes back, but progress is very slight at this point. Also, the part of the range where zooming is possible still takes a lot of effort to change the focal lengths.

Perhaps somebody who has actually taken apart this particular Series 1 zoom will have more specific suggestions and cautions about how to proceed, though I welcome any advice and comments.

[niceshot]

those screws under the tape wont help you . I believe the one on top are the one you can loosen and regain the zoom. this is a vario focus lens. those screw are stops if you would. the ones under the tape will do nothing for you.

[goatsNdonkey]

When I took the rubber grip off, there were no screws of any kind in the area then revealed. After taking the tape off there were 4 (or was it 3) that could be seen. After sliding off the metal sleeve the tape also secured, two more screws could be seen when zoomed to a particular position..

The ones under the tape, may have only served to hold the front molding of the zoom slider on. The later two seemed to be holding metal pegs that slid in notches (or allowed notches to slide around them). The surfaces I could see at this level of disassembly didn't seem to be binding against each other, for if they had they would have also made focusing bind, which is as free as anyone could want. I think whatever suffers from dried lube, or is binding for some other reason, or is jamming must be deeper in the machinery.

Here's a little sample picture. New tulip tree leaves on an overcast morning. Wide open at f3.8, setting on 24mm (equiv to 35 on my K110D):


Some other test shots of flowers I tried this morning had me wishing that the closest focus distance was closer, the "Macro" capability not available at the part of the zoom range I can access. I wonder what difference a single +1 diopter supplementary lens would make. Of course stopping down (in brighter circumstances) could throw more foreground into focus.

[niceshot]

When I took the rubber grip off, there were no screws of any kind in the area then revealed. After taking the tape off there were 4 (or was it 3) that could be seen. After sliding off the metal sleeve the tape also secured, two more screws could be seen when zoomed to a particular position..

The ones under the tape, may have only served to hold the front molding of the zoom slider on. The later two seemed to be holding metal pegs that slid in notches (or allowed notches to slide around them). The surfaces I could see at this level of disassembly didn't seem to be binding against each other, for if they had they would have also made focusing bind, which is as free as anyone could want. I think whatever suffers from dried lube, or is binding for some other reason, or is jamming must be deeper in the machinery.

Here's a little sample picture. New tulip tree leaves on an overcast morning. Wide open at f3.8, setting on 24mm (equiv to 35 on my K1100D):


Some other test shots of flowers I tried this morning had me wishing that the closest focus distance was closer, the "Macro" capability not available at the part of the zoom range I can access. I wonder what difference a single +1 diopter supplementary lens would make. Of course stopping down (in brighter circumstances) could throw more foreground into focus.

I remember now on my vivitar 28-105 cosina it was the aperture mechanism getting jammed that restricted the zoom, good luck

[niceshot]

When I took the rubber grip off, there were no screws of any kind in the area then revealed. After taking the tape off there were 4 (or was it 3) that could be seen. After sliding off the metal sleeve the tape also secured, two more screws could be seen when zoomed to a particular position..

The ones under the tape, may have only served to hold the front molding of the zoom slider on. The later two seemed to be holding metal pegs that slid in notches (or allowed notches to slide around them). The surfaces I could see at this level of disassembly didn't seem to be binding against each other, for if they had they would have also made focusing bind, which is as free as anyone could want. I think whatever suffers from dried lube, or is binding for some other reason, or is jamming must be deeper in the machinery.

Here's a little sample picture. New tulip tree leaves on an overcast morning. Wide open at f3.8, setting on 24mm (equiv to 35 on my K110D):


Some other test shots of flowers I tried this morning had me wishing that the closest focus distance was closer, the "Macro" capability not available at the part of the zoom range I can access. I wonder what difference a single +1 diopter supplementary lens would make. Of course stopping down (in brighter circumstances) could throw more foreground into focus.

what was the outcome?

[royden]

Just be careful cause you can inadvertently loose the helicoil

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/114-maintenance-repair-articles/179884-pe...-database.html

Check above. There's another Vivitar Lens Club. Check that too. Good luck