Originally posted by Shedking Can anyone point me to an authoritative source?
Some good stuff here:
Media and Publication – Dr Gráinne Cleary
But much of it might not be relevant to the UK.
Originally posted by Shedking I'm aware that sunflower seeds (and other high calorie seeds like niger) are an important part of the attraction
Seed-eaters love sunflower seeds, but they are not good for them in all but small quantities:
SINISTER SUNFLOWER SEEDS: THE TRUTH » Currumbin Valley Birds & Exotic Vetrenarian - Gold Coast Originally posted by Shedking flash/no flash
Opinions differ about this.
If there isn't much light, if you don't use flash, you need to use slow shutter speeds and/or high ISO. I find the ISO performance of the KP one or two stops better than the K-3, but in poor light you still lose contrast and detail. With slow shutter speeds (e.g. 1/125th second or slower for 300mm), even when you avoid camera shake a lot of shots are ruined by subject movement. You need to fire bursts and expect to discard most of them - and you still might get no usable shots.
Some birds will perch absolutely still and occasionally you get lucky ...
(K-3 + FA*300, 1/80th sec, f5.6 1600 ISO)
(K-3 + Sigma 400mm f5.6 tele macro, 1/60th, f6.3, 1600 ISO)
.. but mostly you don't. @Normhead has had a lot of success this way, but you need a lot of time and patience.
So personally I find that I need to use flash, to buy an extra stop or two, when the light is poor. The key is not to overdo it. You might still have to push the aperture, shutter and/or ISO.
(K-3 + FA*300, 1/320th (HSS flash), f5, 800 ISO)
The flash allowed 1/320th but even then there is some motion blur; any slower would have ruined it. With the KP I would have been more comfortable pushing the ISO to 1600 or more, so I could have got 1/500th 1600 ISO f6.3 which would have been better - but it still required flash.
The good thing about flash is that you get more feather detail and better colour, and sometimes a nice catchlight. It can also even up the light in dappled conditions, or illuminate a subject against a bright background. It also helps when using a slow lens.
(KP + DA-L 55-300, 300mm, f6.3, 1/640th (HSS again), 1600 ISO)
In theory, you want the flash off-camera, but much of the time that's impractical. A diffuser can help, but sometimes it's the opposite problem (especially with HSS, which greatly reduces the beam strength) and you need a flash extender. (There are threads about this. I like the MagMod wildlife kit.)
Flash requires trial and error to know what works for you. I've tried manual flash output, but I prefer using PTTL - it's one less variable to worry about and changing the manual output costs valuable time. I usually have the flash output set somewhere around -0.7EV to -1.3EV when at or below the sync speed but somewhere between 0EV to +2EV for HSS (because the output falls away sharply with greater distance to subject).
I recently got some cheap gels but haven't had much chance to try them out yet. There are some YouTube videos showing how changing the colour temperature of the flash can make a significant difference.