[pacerr]

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Hood (#82FH) for the Tamron SP 80-200mm f2.8 and similar lens for US $19.



H2

• http://www.keh.com/...-Lenses-Lens-Shades-and-Hoods/1/sku-TL270090423360?r=FE

[WillH]

Nothing wrong with the 300/5.6

That's - a -nice! Great photo!

I'd buy the 90mm F2.5 but he wants $250 and then there's a mount to buy! It's currently setup for Nikon! The holidays are coming and I need my spending money for other things.

[pacerr]

Nothing wrong with the [SP] 300/5.6

Even the older CT-300-class lens is still useful. When I acquired a Tamron-F 300mm/f5.6 in fixed-OM mount at a price I couldn't resist, I removed the bayonet mount plate and OM linkage and simply epoxied a spare AD-2 PK adapter in its place.

I didn't shave the lens base to match the Pentax registration distance to retain infinity focus; instead I intentionally took advantage of the slight extension tube effect to build a short-range, backyard bug, bird and squirrel shooter. It works just like an M-class lens.

The result was a dedicated close-focus lens with a useful range of approximately 5.5 - 50 feet and the decent optical qualities of the Adaptall CT-300/f5.6. Had I realized then how useful it was going to be, I'd have added an additional extension tube spacer to further promote the macro effect.

It's light weight, easily hand-held, and works as well as can be expected with cheap PK TCs and extension tubes. It became a pseudo- SP 300/f5.6 "macro" for under $25!

It's truly an Adaptall in spirit if not in pedigree. That adaptation re-cycles a cheap, fixed mount lens from some of the abandoned film mount lenses available today.

As one benefit to using a "long-macro" setup, I'd note that a strobe is more versatile, easier to position and to diffuse the fill light and much less annoying to use at 5 - 10 ft than at 5 - 10 inches. It also compensates for the slower maximum aperture by making additional DoF and higher shutter speeds available at f8-22. It makes a perfect match for an old *istDS with an older high-power TTL strobe as I tend to use it.

H2

[Jean Poitiers]

Even the older CT-300-class lens is still useful. When I acquired a Tamron-F 300mm/f5.6 in fixed-OM mount at a price I couldn't resist, I removed the bayonet mount plate and OM linkage and simply epoxied a spare AD-2 PK adapter in its place. ... H2

Bonjour pacerr,

Thanks for the info and I never really thought about an "epoxy recycling" fix like you described ... now I have a new pet project in the back of my mind!

Salut, John le Frog

[pacerr]

. . . a new pet project . . .

While you're thinkin' on it, consider that you can stack and mix-and-match all sorts of things when you chase the extension tube effect. Double-stick tape and 'hot glue' make for easy temporary / trial setups. Just about anything can go between the optical elements and the body so long as there's mechanical strength or a platform to support the weight and you don't expect AE functions.

If bits an' pieces from the hardware and plumbing departments don't inspire your imagination, you should take up crochet or shuffle-board instead. Wait til you discover the web articles on making DIY tilt/shift adapters. (A simple, fixed shift or tilt adapter for a medium format lens to experiment with perhaps?)

Oh, an' you'll really NEED one of those mini-lathes you never quite had an excuse for -- and a micro-machining mill too. Talk about your LBA issues, here's REAL trouble!!

H2

[Jean Poitiers]

While you're thinkin' on it, consider that you can stack and mix-and-match all sorts of things when you chase the extension tube effect. Double-stick tape and 'hot glue' make for easy temporary / trial setups. Just about anything can go between the optical elements and the body so long as there's mechanical strength or a platform to support the weight and you don't expect AE functions.

If bits an' pieces from the hardware and plumbing departments don't inspire your imagination, you should take up crochet or shuffle-board instead. Wait til you discover the web articles on making DIY tilt/shift adapters. (A simple, fixed shift or tilt adapter for a medium format lens to experiment with perhaps?)

Oh, an' you'll really NEED one of those mini-lathes you never quite had an excuse for -- and a micro-machining mill too. Talk about your LBA issues, here's REAL trouble!!

H2

Merci beaucoup Monsieur pacerr ... if my wife sees this, she's going get worried because she knows how I can be ... now where again did you say was the tilt shift DIY?!

Salut, John

[pacerr]

. . . now where again did you say was the tilt shift DIY?!

Unh-oh!. I can see right now you're in a heap 'o trouble now, Jean.

Just web search on this phrase -- DIY tilt shift lens -- or words to that effect.

And please keep my name out of it over there, ok? I can get in enough trouble by myself.

H2

[Class A]

P/KA adapters that don't show f-ratios below f/4 can often be made to work by wiggling the adapter in the mount (press the lens release button and wiggle the lens in small amounts while watching the f-ratio display).

Combine this with wiggling the f-ratio setting on the adapter (using the same approach as above) and chances are you'll see your adapter fully working at some point.

In rare cases one of the two contact brushes in the adapter is not working properly, but I'd venture to say that in many cases it is just a slight misalignment that stops the adapter from fully working.

[pacerr]

. . . a slight misalignment that stops the adapter from fully working.

True. And I've "fixed" two of 'em that exhibited erratic data by very slightly enlarging the lens latch notch with a small burr in a Dremel tool. That's so the latch didn't have to be released to find a suitable position.

But wear and corrosion on the sliding contacts and resistant film can also cause problems since the aperture data is reliant on analog-to-digital interpretation of the varying voltage passed through the resistance strip.

Electric contact cleaner and naptha (cigarette lighter fluid) have served me well as liquid cleaning agents when appropriate.

H2

[Stone G.]

As much as I love splitting damaged gear into atoms, I have always been reluctant to tamper with things that do work. But this discussion has brought a thougt to my mind:

Would it make sense to clean one's adapters as a preventive measure, such as against corrosion, on a regular basis - say, once every second year or so?

[WillH]

As much as I love splitting damaged gear into atoms, I have always been reluctant to tamper with things that do work. But this discussion has brought a thougt to my mind:

Would it make sense to clean one's adapters as a preventive measure, such as against corrosion, on a regular basis - say, once every second year or so?

I'm with you on that! Good advice.

I've recently acquired five P/KA adapters and they all work great! I took one apart to see how it worked to setup the binary code that the camera receives. It's simple, and I like that. The system will work for years! Using the adapters will help ensure the adapters continue to work! The quality is great just like the lenses. Somewhere I found a listing of the binary code for each F stop readout setting - it's a very reliable.

Electronic contact cleaner is the ONLY thing I would use to clean an adapter, and then I'd only use it if needed.

[SRT201]

I just found a generic tripod collar on "the auction site that shall not be named" that fits the SP 01F 2X Teleconverter like a glove!

Generally you're looking for a collar compatible with the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM.

So, slap the 01F on a great lens like the 23A or the 19AH and you can shoot without being worried about the stress on your camera body lens mount. Well... that worries me at least. :-) Placing the tripod collar over the rubber grip of the 01F is so well balanced that I was able to set the K5-01F-23A combo on the shelf and it sat balanced and level on the collar base!

Here's the link to an example... the one I bought. It's inner diameter is approx. 66mm. Anywhere between 64-66 is probably good considering these things are adjustable. In any case, make sure you get one that is made of aluminum and hinged in the center because you will not be able to easily slide the other kind over the body of some of your lenses.

New Canon Tripod Collar Mount Ring for Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM Lens | eBay

I got it from these guys because they are located in the US and I got it in about 3 days as opposed to the weeks waiting for a delivery from China. Also, many of these are in white to match the Canon EF series and I wanted black to match the Tamron. (I have no relationship to the seller)

The only issue is that since the collar has a necessary width for support, it might not fit over things like the 140F 1.4x TC. Also if you use it on a lens like the 23A (with extra felt padding to make it fit) it will limit the minimum zoom to around 100mm because of the space it takes up on the lens body.

Hope this is useful for somebody. I'm quite pleased to find a decent mount for these rather heavy Adaptall lenses. I just was not comfortable with how much weight was hanging off the end of my camera. It's just the way engineer's view the world.

Scott

[WillH]

Wow SRT201! I did the same thing with the MC7 2X Teleconverter! Here's mine attached to a 23A. You did good! Great info

[Jean Poitiers]

I just found a generic tripod collar on "the auction site that shall not be named" that fits the SP 01F 2X Teleconverter like a glove! ...
Scott

Thanks a lot for the info! J

PS - BTW, does anyone know where to score a 23A hood (OEM) ?

[SRT201]

Will,

Nice pic of your setup. I see I'm not the only one worried about the weight of these lenses.

That 23A is a superb piece of glass isn't it!

That is a particularly nice collar you have there. Looks very robust. The one I got is solid enough but not quite like that. Where did you get it?

I have an Adaptall 140F 1.4X TC on the way but unfortunately I don't think the collar will work on that. The 140F is too narrow and I'm guessing the rotating tabs would not be able to rotate with the collar clamped over the top. Too bad. guess I'll have to mount around the collar on the 23A in that case.

Scott

Wow SRT201! I did the same thing with the MC7 2X Teleconverter! Here's mine attached to a 23A. You did good! Great info