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12-30-2018, 09:30 AM   #3586
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Okay...IT'S FIXED ! ! !

For the benefit of others, let me describe what I did/didn't do.

1) First about the original condition: (a) the focus ring would not turn ANY farther than the point where the middle of its "1.9" meter mark aligned with the focus index mark; (b) with a lot of force the focus ring could be pulled slightly closer to the aperture ring and settle into a notch, but there was no possible way to turn the ring at all in the direction that would align the macro mode index lines.

2) With the front of the lens end of the rubber focus grip material rolled back about halfway, I could see several pieces of dark gray, possibly acetate-based tape. The longest, and presumably last piece applied measured about 7.5 inches and wrapped around the focus ring barrel. I unwrapped it, and wound it around a battery to keep it in good condition.

3) Removing that tape revealed two things: (a) a short piece of tape, only about 2 inches long just under the long piece, and (b) a slit between two sections of the focus ring barrel, now uncovered except for where the 2-inch piece covered it, and where the ends of two shorter lengthwise tape pieces just overlapped the slit.

4) Assuming that these focus ring pieces might twist from there current alignment with one another after I removed the next piece of tape, I marked that original alignment with small scratches. Then I removed the 2-inch piece of tape.

5) When I set the lens down on one end, thinking the shorter tape pieces were holding things together, suddenly the slit between the two pieces fell open to an inch or more. (YIKES!) But it easily slid back together, with no problem in aligning the pieces with my marks. No parts fell out. Nothing seemed broken. I continued with more caution.

6) I temporarily held the slit between the pieces snuggly together with a piece of masking tape, and then I checked to see if operation of the lens was the same or different. The focus ring still turned well past infinity on the one end of the throw, but on the other end now it would turn at least halfway closer to "Macro" than before. Also, now, if I gently pulled the focus ring back slightly more toward the aperture ring when it was at that closer to Macro position, it would easily slide over to full Macro mode alignment, meaning the ring no longer twisted but only slid forward and backward. Reversing the procedure, let the lens go back to normal mode.

7) After reinstalling the original 2-inch tape piece, I found the lens still working properly. After reinstalling the 7.5-inch piece of tape, same thing.

8) NOTE that I seem to have DONE NOTHING. The two ring parts are still aligned the same way they were--my alignment marks show this. What happened????

9) My best guess is that the two focus ring parts might now be about 1-2 TENTHS OF A MILLIMETER farther apart, and this change has made all of the difference. But how did the tolerances get too close to allow the macro mode to work? Maybe the 30-some year old tape shrank and pulled the pieces more tightly together than during manufacture and testing??? Or maybe something else in the mechanism wore, got dirty, got blocked, or otherwise got screwed up enough that a minuscule more gap between those rings is needed.

I didn't knowingly do anything to fix it besides take off two pieces of tape, and then make sure I put it back the way it was (as well as I could without breaking anything), and now it works.

12-30-2018, 10:51 AM   #3587
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Here are a couple of quick test shots with that 23A 60-300mm, both with K10D, ISO 100, manual mode, and on-board flash. The first, of my old Miranda Sensomat RE, sitting on a shelf across the room about 13 feet away, uses the 300mm focal length and an aperture of f3.8. The second, of the tape measure I used to measure the tape under the rubber grip material, was taken from 18 inches (or less), in the Macro Mode, and used an aperture of f22 to accommodate how close the flash was. It's sharp, if a little BRIGHT! Perhaps I needed to use f/32. When it warms up a few more degrees this afternoon, I'll take it outside, and ditch using the flash.



01-01-2019, 09:53 AM   #3588
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A BRIEF NOT VERY SCIENTIFIC COMPARISON OF THE TAMRON ADAPTLL-2 09A AND 17A 35-70MM CF MACRO ZOOMS
=================================================================================================

Through sloppy bookkeeping and perhaps mental deficiency, I have come to be in the position of copies of both of these Tamron Adaptall-2 35-70mm lenses. While the only obvious difference between the two is the fixed f/3.5 maximum aperture of the 17A, the other differences between the two lenses seem superficial, but there may be some optical improvements in the 17A. In any case the 17A gets an above 8 point review average and the 09A doesn't. However, the 09A has far fewer reviews than does the 17A.

Keeping in mind that individual lens copies can vary somewhat from the typical others have reviewed, I thought I should do some direct comparisons of my two lenses. In these shots, I'm using my K110D in Green mode, with the onboard flash up, and the very same PKA Adaptall-2 adapter. According to the K110D, all of the shots were exposed at 1/180sec, and f/4.5. Since the two images at lower magnification, taken from farther back, are somewhat darker, that exposure may have been at the margins for that lighting.

Pictures of a small tape measure, near closest focus distance & maximum magnification (1:2.8 for either lens). The 09A shot is first:





* Obviously the 17A shot is a little brighter. Did the adapter actually set both lenses to exactly the same f-stop?
* There is less depth-of-field in the 09A shot, but notice that it is focused closer and has a higher magnification. This could also mean it needed more light.
* But which shot is sharpest, in the area focused on? There is very little difference. At times I think the 09A has won; other times I'm unsure.

Shot of cleaning fluid for tape recorder rubber rollers, framed to show full length of bottle. Again, I accidentally shot the first, the 09A shot at a bit higher magnification, but the brightness of the exposures was more similar in this pair:





* What happened ?!?!?!? The 17A shot is blurry. Maybe this is a good time to point out that for each of its shots I found it HARDER to get focus confirm with my K110D using the 17A. It took me 2-3 times as long to focus these handheld shots in subdued interior light when I was using my 17A than with my 09A. But people in the reviews who compare the two lenses (most 17A reviewers don't do that) say the 17A gives a brighter viewfinder making focusing easier with it than the 09A. Hmmmmmm?
* I can't compare sharpness with this image pair.

Last of these three comparisons--pictures of the side of a Fujicolor Superia X-tra 400 film box. This time I have accidentally gotten the magnification almost identical in the two images. Like with the first pair, the second, the 17A shot is brighter:





* Both shots are pretty sharp.
* Both not only seem sharp, in rendering the small bright reflective highlights, they both actually reveal the offset printing dot pattern in the reddish color band just to the right of the letter "A."
* Only the older, supposedly design-superseded, 09A, however, is also showing the offset printing dot pattern in the area where the reddish and yellow color bands in the design overlap!

Very imperfect test, true. Lots of room for user error to affect each image pair, yes. But that is how I would use either lens, handheld and grabbing shots maybe with less care than these half of the time. Also, as I mentioned, I am really only comparing two copies of these lenses. My much more obviously well-used-looking 09A, for some reason has a much better dampened focus ring action, which could be making arriving at focus easier, despite a marginally darker viewfinder than it's fixed aperture cousin. My exceptionally-pristine-looking copy of the 17A, has a much looser focus ring, and actually has some zoom-creep; if you put it on the 35mm focal length, it can move off of that setting on its own with the help of gravity (though it probably wouldn't if the photographer's hand was on the focal length ring).

The way that moving the focus ring can shift what focal length one is in (a property of both lenses), still just seems WRONG to me. I have other CF (continuous focusing) lenses that don't use that strategy. But now I have gone from one lens I was thinking of getting rid of because of that weird feature, to having two and trying to decide which to keep!!!

Anybody else have an 09A that you don't feel has been left behind by the 17A? Want to post some sample images?

When the sun comes back here, in a day or two, I'll try to shoot some samples with each, not necessarily in comparison form, but just seeing what each copy can do. If one shines more than the other, though, perhaps it will show.

Last edited by goatsNdonkey; 01-01-2019 at 10:07 AM.
01-01-2019, 10:09 AM - 1 Like   #3589
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I have had similar results with these lenses Steve. IMO both are good. Underrated actually , overshadowed by elder cousin optically so to speak SP 01A.
edit i need to replace the pics I had in my reviews.

01-01-2019, 10:20 AM   #3590
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QuoteOriginally posted by marcusBMG Quote
I have had similar results with these lenses Steve. IMO both are good. Underrated actually , overshadowed by elder cousin optically so to speak SP 01A.
edit i need to replace the pics I had in my reviews.
Interesting!

I'd like to try an SP 01A, but they tend to be pricey when the people who aren't firmly hanging onto their copies decide to sell them. I have the SP 27A, which was supposed to replace the 01A, partly because it went to 28mm at the wide end. The 27A has very mixed reviews, numbers making it competitive with the 01A from some people and very low numbers from others. Altogether, it wasn't roundly accepted as an 01A replacement.
01-01-2019, 12:13 PM   #3591
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27A is good at its wide end, but not stellar. Has almost no distortion at 28 mm and acceptable quality wide-open/close to wide open (also at 28 mm). 01A is very good, but rather not for landscapes. I had 17A which was good but this lens seems to loose contrast very easily
01-01-2019, 12:46 PM   #3592
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QuoteOriginally posted by Piotrek K Quote
27A is good at its wide end, but not stellar. Has almost no distortion at 28 mm and acceptable quality wide-open/close to wide open (also at 28 mm). 01A is very good, but rather not for landscapes. I had 17A which was good but this lens seems to loose contrast very easily
Your post reminds that all of these related lenses are trying to be both standard zooms, functioning well between their focal extremes, as well as "macro" close-focusing lenses. If we mainly want an 01A for the macro capability, we might miss (or not care) that it is less suitable for landscape work, for example, going with your assessment of it.


CORRECTION: I was using my K10D for those comparison pairs, not my K110D.
01-04-2019, 12:27 PM   #3593
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Here are a couple of close-up handheld shots with the 23A 60-300mm. The closer shot is nowhere near the lens's maximum magnification, because I had the hood on the lens, which either started casting a shadow on the subject or bumped into the subject. But some kind of support would be needed for the higher magnification anyway. I had the hood on because of the low winter sun to avoid flare. Third shot is a test of the lens set at about 200mm (focus on the second pole). All of the shots are with aperture wide open. Camera: K10D, iso 100.







01-05-2019, 01:35 PM - 6 Likes   #3594
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Taken with my Tamron 105mm f2.5 which I've owned from new in the 1970's - orginaly used on a Canon AE-1 now on my KI!

01-08-2019, 06:07 AM   #3595
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Hello all!

Just joined the group. Right now, I have two 23A 60-300 lenses, one 46A 70-210mm, and one 500mm 55BB (just acquired). I also have one 1.4x teleconverter, and one 01F 2x teleconverter, 2 P-KM and 1 P-K adapter, and a 02F teleview adapter. The 55BB and the teleview are both recent acquisitions. I hope to use the 55BB for moon photography, and potentially terrestrial bird. However F/8 seems to be too slow for full astrophotography. For that, I have my 60-300s, among others. Just ordered an iOptron for that.

Thank you!

--Jonathan
01-08-2019, 07:15 PM   #3596
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QuoteOriginally posted by jawats Quote
Hello all!

Just joined the group. Right now, I have two 23A 60-300 lenses, one 46A 70-210mm, and one 500mm 55BB (just acquired). I also have one 1.4x teleconverter, and one 01F 2x teleconverter, 2 P-KM and 1 P-K adapter, and a 02F teleview adapter. The 55BB and the teleview are both recent acquisitions. I hope to use the 55BB for moon photography, and potentially terrestrial bird. However F/8 seems to be too slow for full astrophotography. For that, I have my 60-300s, among others. Just ordered an iOptron for that.

Thank you!

--Jonathan
Welcome!
01-09-2019, 04:01 PM - 4 Likes   #3597
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Taken with the Pentax 3II and the Tamron 28 mm f/2.5, Adaptall 2
In Camera Pixel Shift employed.

01-22-2019, 10:07 AM - 3 Likes   #3598
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Tamron 80-210mm 3.8-4 Adaptall2

01-26-2019, 11:39 PM - 1 Like   #3599
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K-3 with Tamron Adaptall-2 SP 72B





01-27-2019, 12:49 AM   #3600
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QuoteOriginally posted by jawats Quote
Hello all!

Just joined the group. Right now, I have two 23A 60-300 lenses, one 46A 70-210mm, and one 500mm 55BB (just acquired). I also have one 1.4x teleconverter, and one 01F 2x teleconverter, 2 P-KM and 1 P-K adapter, and a 02F teleview adapter. The 55BB and the teleview are both recent acquisitions. I hope to use the 55BB for moon photography, and potentially terrestrial bird. However F/8 seems to be too slow for full astrophotography. For that, I have my 60-300s, among others. Just ordered an iOptron for that.

Thank you!

--Jonathan
Welcome and hope to see some images soon, J
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