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09-13-2011, 08:45 PM   #166
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Rokkor 58mm F1.4 and Topcor 58mm f1.8 conversion

Rokkor 58mm f1.4 completed mount. I used a standard m42 mount, and sanded out the threads to allow the aperture pin to move freely. Notice I ground down the left side a little to make sure there was no interference with the pin.
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Rokkor Mount parts and aperture ring. Everything pictured had to be modified in some way. The center ring is the mount spacer. I finally got it to reach infinity after sanding it down 2 more times.
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Here's a sample pic taken about a week ago with the Rokkor @ f2.8. Re-sized only, no other post processing.
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Topcor 58mm f1.8 new mount and plastic ring. The plastic ring was used to act as a low friction surface to allow the aperture ring to rotate properly. Unfortunately, even with the plastic ring, the aperture was pretty stiff, so I had to loosen the mount screws a bit to allow it to turn easily.
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The 52mm reverse ring on the left is what the new mount looked like before I started. I cut off the threads and placed the mount on the back of the lens. It was then that I found that the aperture ring would be very loose, so I decided to mill down the inside of the ring a bit to fit over the raised inner mounting ring (see inner ring above). I used a router attachment for my Dremel with a circular jig I made, a pattern cutting guide, and a standard carbide dado router bit to mill the recessed ring. Though the carbide wood bit worked, it wasn't pretty and a lot of cleaning up was necessary. Also unfortunate, the depth gauge on a Dremel router attachment is less then accurate and I milled the recess a little too deep. Hence the need for the plastic ring and loose screws mentioned above.
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And a sample pick taken a few days ago using the Topcor @ f2.8. Re-sized only, no other post processing.
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I was 90% complete with the Topcor conversion when I realized I was going about this all wrong. After measuring the inner raised ring on the lens that the mount screws to, I realized a 58mm reverse adapter would probably fit just over the edge and could have simply been sanded down like the Rokkor spacer above. All the milling, shaping, sanding and subsequent band-aids w/ neosporen would not have been necessary. I decided to finish up anyway as I had gone to far to turn back. The Topcor focuses past infinity right now, but I can probably fix that if I fabricate a new mount with a 58mm reverse ring.
The next project is the Topcor 58mm f1.4. I've ordered a 62mm reverse ring to be modified into a mount for this one. The 62mm is necessary because the lens has a leaf spring under the mount that the adapter will have to fit over and hold in place. I'll upload pics and a full explanation when the adapter arrives.

In the mean time, I've been happily testing the two new members to my lens family (Adopted members to the family). So far, below f4.5 the Rokkor seems to be a little better in contrast, color rendition, resolution, and micro-contrast. The Topcor is no slouch here either, just slightly behind the Rokkor. Above f4.5 the Topcor has better resolution and contrast, but not by much. What the Topcor seems to do best is Bokeh. It's just smoother and more consistant then the Rokkor. Again, even in the Bokeh category, the differences are minimal. The topcor has an overall slighly nicer feel to the rendering, but it's only slight. I could easily loose one lens and be perfectly happy with the other. My opinion of the Rokkor may change once the Topcor's big brother is completed.


Last edited by Damian; 09-14-2011 at 09:55 AM.
09-14-2011, 07:29 AM   #167
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Are you saying that you made a shouldered mount spacer like the original? I have a lot of metal working experience and I don't think I would ever try it without the right tools (I have one of those dremel router attachment and I'm betting that was a pain in the but to work with). Of course the kids took my router attachment apart and lost the screws (the replacement screws let the depth wander slowly but If I recall way back when the original screws did the same thing). It would be easy with a lathe.
I think I'm going to stick to using a second ring to hold the aperture ring down for now. I'm thinking cheap Chinese step rings, junk filters, or parts from a gutted lens would work best for both rings (for easily available stuff and the least work). A step down ring would work nicely for the mount shim and a step up ring would work well for the aperture ring. Honestly I'm thinking almost anything would work well for the aperture ring spacer (doesn't take any force so any material would work, doesn't need to be precision unless you want a tight aperture ring etc. I'm thinking along the lines of a rubber o ring (I have some that are almost big enough but it could just be cut), a circle but out of plastic or heavy cardboard paper (I suppose paper fibers might come off the cardboard but I have a roll of generic gasket cardboard that I think is plastic treated). All it really has to do is keep the aperture ring from popping up out of place.

Did you notice my hideous white spacer one by the way? Rather than fill the space inside it sat over the edge of the aperture ring. I could trim the ring down and or paint it so it wasn't so ugly but I'm too lazy as it works great. I would recommend an internal spacer over this method (unless you just happen to find a plastic ring that fits perfectly with little modification like I did). I will probably put an internal spacer in this one some day when I am feeling less lazy and don't have other lenses to work on. The 52-49mm step ring you see inside in the first pic was the mount spacer and the plastic ring is the aperture spacer. This job was quite easy and required little work (both spacer parts fit with very little work to them).
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/1614787-post150.html

You did give me some ideas about building a dremel fixture but due to the ease of doing it the other way, it probably won't be an urgent project.
09-14-2011, 09:19 AM - 1 Like   #168
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Yes, I made a shoulder type lens mount like the original using a Dremel. I know, I'm crazy. As I said, it wasn't pretty, but it worked. I've always been the type to do the best I can with what I have. Unfortunately, I don't have a lathe, otherwise I would have attempted that route instead. I set the mount in my vice, and cut a circle in a 1/4" thick piece of birch plywood with a hole saw. Then sanded that slightly larger using a drum sander so the router path would cut out far enough. Using the pattern guide for the router attachment, I milled the face of the mount down in two separate passes. The second pass I went a little two deep. Yes, the router attachment is a pain to work with. I actualy should have used my big router, but I couldn't find my pattern guides for it (my shop is a mess right now) and I was a little afraid that the big router, being a powerful as it is, might just grab on to the mount and shoot it across the room. Anyway, what I did was not the best way of going about the conversion. I realized when I was almost done that I could have done it with a lot less effort if I had simply purchased a different reverse ring. Hind sights - twenty/twenty. I never thought of using parts of a step ring to hold the aperture ring down. That may still be the way to go if I ever decide to revise the mount on the 58mm 1.8.
The mount for the Topcor 58mm 1.4 will be a simple 3 step process (famous last words). One, determine if the 62mm reverse ring is thick enough for infinity and possibly cut a spacer out of plastic/metal/aluminum foil/etc. to make it correct. Two, sand down the thread side of the reverse ring so the reverse threads fit just over the inner ridge of the aperture ring with the inside of the new mount properly seated against the inner mount ring on the lens barrel. I may also need to thin out the thread ring a little to fit over the inner aperture ring ridge. Three, drill holes and mount with original screws. This method will give me a small space inside, between the inner aperture ring and inner raised mount ring on the barrel. In this space the small leaf spring should fit correctly and allow me to keep the clicks at the f-stops. I actually have drawn up a drawing in AutoCad to confirm my theory.
I Like what you did there with the plastic spacer. And you are right, I could have, and should have just tried making a ring out of card stock or thin plastic to hold the aperture ring in place. It didn't occur to me to try that type of spacer until I was finished and had it all assembled. That would have worked great now that I think about it. It could have been left free floating and slightly thinner then the space it sits in to allow the aperture ring to turn freely. Hmmm, I might have to try that, but then I would have to sacrifice another mount.

Here's a quick drawing I did of the Topcor 58mm f1.4 to help illustrate what I'm talking about doing. It also helped me think through the problem. I'm a visual thinker. A drawing always makes it easier for me.
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Last edited by Damian; 09-15-2011 at 01:42 PM.
09-14-2011, 11:48 AM   #169
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I'm not sure how many lenses you might want to convert in the future. It might not be worth going to a lot of trouble if its just a couple. Personally after having done a few, I think I'm going to shy away from lenses unless they are something special (like the one with the white spacer which is a series 1 70-210mm 3.5 ver 3). Here are a few ideas though.

For aperture spacers I'm thinking a step up ring is easiest (what I used in post 151 of this thread for the outer spacer ring). You wind up with a thin l shape (just think of a step up ring with the whole center cut out). Its just thin metal so its less to cut. A step down ring would work for a more solid spacer but you are looking at a lot more to cut and have to make it fit around the mount ring. On the one I did, the ledge hung over the mount ring a little but as its just a thin lip there were no issues (as the mount spacer was much thicker than the thin lip). I have many step rings to check what size fits but you could just measure the largest that would fit in the aperture ring and go a few mm smaller on the step up to size. Cheap step rings are about 2$ shipped on ebay (if you plan ahead you can occasionally get them auction instead of buy it now cheaper). I have preemptively bought several step rings and filters (break the glass out and use the ring) ranging from 6 cents to 1.50 shipped (yea I actually got a cheap Chinese 55mm uv filter at auction for 6 cents shipped and 3 step rings for 49 cents ea shipped). It saves the wait of 2-4 weeks to get them shipped from china. I also got a donor lens on ebay for 5$ shipped (actually 3 for 15 but I'm hoping 2 are repairable/usable). The donor lens had a ring missing on the front and the front element looked like it was scraped across the cement. For a little more than the cost of a m42-k mount adapter I got a donor mount (works excellent if the hole spacing lines up which it has a few times so far), and lots of various small parts and rings (like the rings that it uses to hold down elements). The inner mount spacer ring on the one in post 151 was a random ring gutted from a canon lens.

I haven't found out all the particulars, but with a donor A mount, you may get limited A function. I have a vivitar 35-200mm 3-4.5 with a donor mount from a 80-200 3.9. I don't know if it is because the aperture is in the same ballpark (I heard the camera actually meters on A lenses so regardless of what lens it thinks it is, it should meter fine), but it meters and gets proper exposure at any focal length. Right now the lens is wide open only (I actually have a chance of a working stop down lever with this one). I guess I'll see later when that gets done how it works at other apertures.
As far as a dremel to make a proper stepped mount, I was thinking a dremel mounted to the bottom of a board (like a home made router table). Maybe some sort of slides with pins to control how close the ring can get to the bit to control how far in it cuts. I don't have much of a shop right now though so who knows when/if I'll get to trying something like that.

You can also turn non A lenses into A lenses by creating/shielding contacts (again, I am not sure how full of function you get).

Those are just a few ideas in case anyone is interested.

Here is a little more about the A contacts.
http://kmp.bdimitrov.de/technology/K-mount/Ka.html
There is a thread about converting M lenses to A lenses but I can not find it right now.

09-14-2011, 03:45 PM   #170
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I'm not sure how many lenses I'm going to convert. This little bout of lens conversion was kind of an answer to my frustrations in feeding my LBA. I wanted a good 58mm lens (for portraits) but didn't want to spring for the Voigtlander 58mm 1.4, so I decided to find the best 58's I could. Unfortunately, the best ones are not it PK or M42 mount. So that's how I got here. Now that I'm here, I kinda like it, so I may stick around and see what else I can convert. I have a badly neglected, but optically perfect Vivitar 28mm f2 that needs conversion from Nikon to Pentax, not to mention aperture unsticking and filter ring unbending. Though I could just make a few minor mods and make it fit I guess. Or I could fix it and sell it, then use the profits to buy a PK or PKA version of the lens. Then of course I still have that Rokkor 35mm 2.8 that will eventually need to be converted. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it though.

Anyway, I do have other projects in mind. I saw the post a few pages back where aliasant converted a Canon FL bellows to PK with stop down control. I think I may attempt that myself. I have a Canon FL bellows on the way I picked up dirt cheap. My original idea was just to do a straight mount conversion but after seeing that stop down control was possible I thought I'd give it a go. I'm not sure if this is feasible but I might try to make it a PKA conversion. I'm wondering if simply wiring the contacts from one end to the other will pass the information properly. I have a PKA teleconverter that could easily be used to give me the A mount front and back. The only question is connection on the contacts. Should be possible, in theory at least.

I also have a MD mount Vivitar macro focusing TC that I'm going to turn into a variable extension tube. I may try to convert it with stop down control, and maybe not. Not sure until I pull it apart and see how different it is to my other Viv that I don't want to sacrifice.

Thanks for all the tips on finding bits and pieces. I might just tear apart my Kiron 28-210 for parts. I was thinking about making a simple spot light out of some of the lenses inside so I can get more even and direct spot lighting on my subject when doing macros. I'll definitly keep an Eye out for good deals on broken lenses and/or filters/rings.

I read the article on converting K and M lenses to A, but if I remember correctly, there was an issue with a non-linear aperture on the older K and M lenses. So the metering isn't always right, or something like that.

Does anyone know if there is any good use for teleconverter lenses? I've pulled the lenses out of 4 teleconverters now and have been holding on to them in case I can figure out some use for them. All my cheap teleconverters are now PKA extension tubes.

By the way, KEH - you can get misc. PKA teleconverters for $8. That's nothing when you consider how much people want for PKA extension tubes. They should also be good for use as mounts.

My greatest Investment for lens/camera part modification was a roll of self adhesive flocking. I think it was $10 from Scientific America or some place like that.
Again thanks for the advice. It's opened my eyes to how many sources of parts there are. I guess I need to look at the problem a little more creatively next time before spending 2 or 3 hours grinding aluminum. I have a bunch of duplicate step up and down rings that may come in handy. I bought a whole set a while back so all the singles I had before are extra.

Edit: I got the flocking from Edmund Scientific.

Last edited by Damian; 09-15-2011 at 07:38 AM.
09-14-2011, 05:11 PM   #171
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I didn't think that there was anything to wire. The plastic contacts are non grounded, and the metal are grounded to the lens but no wiring. I could be mistaken but I got the impression that the linear and non linear thing didn't matter on dslr's as it will ttl meter and get an accurate reading for whatever the aperture is anyway? I'm half guessing on how it all works though (need to do some more reading). I can not restore the A pin on mine (not enough left of the mount), but I can get the spring loaded lever to stop down (after making a part). I'm not sure what kind of function that will give me but eventually I'll find out. I would try and change the metal/plastic contacts to match the lens but the lens is 3-4.5 so there is no combination for that lens (I'm not sure it matters as long as the camera thinks its an a lens). It might show the wrong apeture number in the readout but still change and control aperture? I really don't know for sure. I guess maybe you need the A pin for that. I am hoping if nothing else, it will stop down the aperture, meter and fire, same as it would with the aperture manually set on the ring of an A lens?

Edit: I forgot to mention this one didn't go as planned. The mount should have been about .130" thick leaving many things intact. I'm down to .080" and still haven't reached infinity (I took it out shooting the other day and its very close but I don't have infinity at all focal distances yet). I'll just have to see how it functions half intact. I must have mismeasured somewhere.

Last edited by ripit; 09-14-2011 at 05:23 PM.
09-14-2011, 07:11 PM   #172
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From my understanding of how the contacts on an A lens work, wherever the pins touch the bare lens mount they essentially short out and the camera can sense this. Where they hit an insulator and don't short, the camera can sense this. The combination of pins that are shorted vs. not is what tells the camera what the max aperture is of that lens. Spacific to the bellows mount conversion I spoke of earlier, if I take the front of the teleconverter mount and place it on the front of the bellows, and put the back teleconverter mount on the back of the bellows, I'll have A mounts on both ends, but no way for the camera to know if any of the pins are shorting out or not. So I would have to somehow connect the pins on the back of the bellows to the pins on the front of the bellows to transmit the electrical current from one side to the other. With exception of the A pin that tells the camera that the lens aperture is set to A, I think everything else should work. The A pin will have to be spring loaded or something to tell the camera the lens is set to A. I'll figure it out when I get further in I guess.

Regarding the Linear, non-Linear thing. From what I understand, and I could be wrong, the camera actually opens the iris to the correct aperture via the stop down lever based on information it collects about what max aperture the lens is. I may be wrong about that point though. I know that A lenses the aperture stop down is linear, and M lenses it's progressive. Or something like that at least. Anyway, the camera calculates exposure based on the wide open value. So if the lens mount says it's a 2.8 lens, and in reality it's a 3.5 lens, then it will think it's much darker then it is and over expose the image upon stop down. The thing is, the camera does not meter when it stops down. It calculates the proper value based on the wide open meter reading. So if the camera thinks that the lens is faster or slower then it really is, when you stop down it will have done the wrong math and exposure will be wrong. When the camera stops down to take the picture, it actually only moves the stop down lever the correct distance to allow the iris to open to the selected aperture. So if it's an M lens with progressive aperture mechanism, then the stop down lever will not move the correct distance to properly expose the picture. So it's possible you could run into issues with exposure, but again, I could be wrong. It's been a while since I read about all this stuff. You should probably do some research and see what the facts are, as I'm pretty sure I may have just messed some things up there. The gist of it should be right though.
09-15-2011, 06:10 AM   #173
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Nice work Damian! I hope to make a Topcor some time also. My dream is the 135mm macro they made.

09-15-2011, 06:36 AM   #174
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QuoteOriginally posted by Douglas_of_Sweden Quote
Nice work Damian! I hope to make a Topcor some time also. My dream is the 135mm macro they made.
I placed a Pentax mount on a 35mm f2.5 Topcor and got it to work just like a K or M series Pentax lens but unfortunaly I managed to destroy one of the small nipples that holds the aparture blades so its a lens added to the list of disasters.
At least its possible.
I used a mount from an old Vivitar lens that has a built in spring for the aperture lever.
Also didnt need to change any distances since its almost the exact same as Pentax and the small difference I got could easily be tweaked by changing the Infinity settings. unfortunaly I cant remember how I did that.
Also have a 58/1.8 Topcor with Pentax Bayonett but without the aperture control. Just old fashioned manual. Same with that one though. Didnt need to sand anything. Just change the infinity setting.... somewere... On that one I made new holes in the old pentax mount so I can reverse it back to original if I want to. I dont use that lens much so if anyone needs one I might be able to swap or something... I need a Topcor 35/2.8 or atleast one with working aperture. Mechanics and glas doesnt matter
09-15-2011, 02:08 PM   #175
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QuoteOriginally posted by Douglas_of_Sweden Quote
Nice work Damian! I hope to make a Topcor some time also. My dream is the 135mm macro they made.
Thanks! There was a 135mm macro @ KEH just recently, in ugly condition (probably about the same as my 58 1.4 was) for $10. I was thinking of buying it and three other Topcor's they had for dirt cheap (like between $5 and $20 each depending) and in ugly condition but I decided to sleep on it as I already have enough projecs on my plate ( i still need to baby proof the house). I woke up that morning with a vague remembrance of a dream I had of all those lenses almost in my grasp and then vanishing before my eyes. I immediately went to the computer to purchase all of them fearing my dream was foreshadowing events to come, and they were all gone. The moral.... you snooze you loose..... literally.
I also watched a mislabeled Topcor 135 macro w/ variable extension go for a little over $100 on fleabay a month or two ago. I was hoping to steal it for less then $75, but I guess some other people saw it too.

QuoteOriginally posted by aliasant Quote
I placed a Pentax mount on a 35mm f2.5 Topcor and got it to work just like a K or M series Pentax lens but unfortunaly I managed to destroy one of the small nipples that holds the aparture blades so its a lens added to the list of disasters.
I might have to try that one of these days.

QuoteOriginally posted by aliasant Quote
I need a Topcor 35/2.8 or at least one with working aperture. Mechanics and glas doesnt matter
I "need" one of those too. Unfortunately every one I've come across was way over priced. I'd like to have the 35 2.8 and the 135 3.5 as I've seen some pretty nice stuff out of them. I'll just have to wait until I can find one for a reasonable price. I have trouble justifying spending too much on lenses that require modification to work on my camera.
09-15-2011, 03:04 PM   #176
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QuoteOriginally posted by Damian Quote
Thanks! There was a 135mm macro @ KEH just recently, in ugly condition (probably about the same as my 58 1.4 was) for $10. I was thinking of buying it and three other Topcor's they had for dirt cheap (like between $5 and $20 each depending) and in ugly condition but I decided to sleep on it as I already have enough projecs on my plate ( i still need to baby proof the house).
I would say your pretty much screwed about getting those projects done fast, LOL. Congratulations on the new baby (I assume). When I had kids is when I stopped having much free time. Be sure and get anything valuable behind a locked cabinet (like your camera gear). They grow up fast and in no time, they will learn amazing ways to get at stuff you put up high and play with (destroy) it. I think my older one was about 3 or younger when he learned to stick something in the hole in the door to unlock it. He knew there were treats hidden in there and once you use a room for hiding Christmas presents and get caught one time, there must always be toys in there (so having a locked room doesn't help). My 4 year old knows how to unlock a door with a key so that probably wouldn't help either.

While I have only watched a few thins on keh, good deals seem to disappear fast there. I really don't know how fast they get new stock in.
09-17-2011, 12:57 PM   #177
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QuoteOriginally posted by ripit Quote
I would say your pretty much screwed about getting those projects done fast, LOL. Congratulations on the new baby (I assume). When I had kids is when I stopped having much free time. Be sure and get anything valuable behind a locked cabinet (like your camera gear). They grow up fast and in no time, they will learn amazing ways to get at stuff you put up high and play with (destroy) it. I think my older one was about 3 or younger when he learned to stick something in the hole in the door to unlock it. He knew there were treats hidden in there and once you use a room for hiding Christmas presents and get caught one time, there must always be toys in there (so having a locked room doesn't help). My 4 year old knows how to unlock a door with a key so that probably wouldn't help either.

While I have only watched a few thins on keh, good deals seem to disappear fast there. I really don't know how fast they get new stock in.
Thanks for the well wishes. She's actually 6 months old now. She's starting to learn to crawl. She can't go more then a few feet yet, but she's learning fast. I've already found out the hard way that anything within reach is fair game to her. Last night she ate half an envelope. Testing out those new teeth I guess. She didn't actually eat it, just mouthed it to shreds. So I'm starting the baby proofing today. Went and bought all my supplies this morning, and will probably spent the rest of the afternoon installing cabinet locks, baby gates, outlet covers and corner bumpers on the living room furniture. Load of fun. At least I had a few min this morning to take some pictures of the spider lilies in the back yard. Nothing spectacular, just testing some lenses. I'll probably take some more pictures tomorrow morning if I can keep the mosquitoes away from me long enough. Thanks for the advice. My wife and I were discussing new living quarters for the camera gear, as it is no longer going to be safe in it's corner in the living room. I guess I'm going to have to sell off some stuff some time soon, as I'm running out of corners to stuff things in. Not just camera stuff, but other things that pertain to my various hobbies.
09-17-2011, 10:14 PM   #178
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If she is crawling, better work quick as it won't take long. I have been storing my camera stuff in a wardrobe like this
View Storage Wardrobe Deals at Big Lots
I assembled it without the bar and added an extra shelf (I could use a couple more shelves but never got around to it). For quite a while I was able to get most of my camera gear on the large top shelf. With recent LBA, I have had to move stuff down (top shelf is full with about 60 lenses spaced out just a little bit). I never got around to installing a lock but had a doubled up coat hanger bent around the handles (I could just bend it a little to open the doors but the kids were never strong enough to get in). Kitchen shelves tool a lot of valuables too (even at 6 yrs old my older one can not reach the top shelf standing on the counter).
09-18-2011, 10:25 AM   #179
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Everything will probably end up in the shelves of my master closet for now. I'm all out of room for new furniture. I've actually been thinking about reducing the amount of gear I have because I rarely use half of the lenses I have. 6 lenses will be going up on e-bay in the next few weeks. Those are lenses I have replaced with something better.

Actually, my biggest problem right now is the cats. I found my small camera bag on the floor this morning with the 3 lenses I use the most spilled out on the floor. Knocked off my desk onto the floor. Aprox. 30" fall. I forgot to zip up the bag last night. At least the camera was not in the bag. Apparently the cats were chasing each other about the house last night and knocked my camera bag on the floor, a glass in the kitchen, and a picture frame off the desk. They are both lucky I was in a forgiving mood this morning, or I'd be marinading barbecue kitty cat right now. Don't get me wrong, I love my cats, but I can get new ones for free at the shelter.
10-01-2011, 08:35 PM   #180
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So, I have an interesting dilemma. I was at the flea market today, and stumbled across a camera bag with a very nice looking lens sticking out the top. I took a closer look and there in front of my eyes was a Canon FL 55mm f1.2 lens attached to a Canon FT camera. Without looking too interested, I looked over everything and was pleasantly surprised to find the lens, camera, bag, filter assortmant, camera instruction manual, flash and other doodads all in very good and well cared for condition. I looked around some more and talked to the guy about some other items and then asked how much for the camera. The guy told me $100 bucks, I told him $50 +throw in the lizard toy my son was begging me for and he had a deal. We shook hands, the camera became mine and 50 of my hard earned dollars became his. So the dilemma is, do I keep this nice piece of glass and risk destroying/devaluing it in an extensive, difficult, and irreversible lens conversion, or do I sell it on flea-bay for the roughly $300 these are currently going for and use that money to buy a lens I don't have to convert. I already have some very very nice 50ish glass. I don't really 'need' another, but 'need' isn't the point of LBA is it? Anyway, opinions from informed canon lens owners/hackers would be apprciated. I have been wanting to try a canon conversion, just wasn't planning on cutting my teeth on a relatively expensive piece of glass.
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