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12-06-2019, 07:55 PM   #1111
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I think I solved my problems.

This was at a 1/25th shutter. I didn't read your reply till just now. Its what I landed on.
I took three test shots to dial in exposure. I had a 1/250th a 1/200th and a 1/125th. The first two were too dark
I also took three shots to try to dial in the focus. I tried the LV, just so blurry, used the OVF, took a shot, then bumped it one way, took a shot and one the other way took a shot. Turns out the one that looks best in the OVF is the best focus. (Now I know for sure)

I have the Tamron 500mm f8 mirror lens BBAR MC. There is no f stop adjustment. I have to use f8
All shots were on a sturdy tripod (you should see it its big and heavy, an old one) and on a 2 second delay and a cable release
These are all in iso 80. I'd hate to have to up the iso and add noise, I guess up to 800 shouldn't hurt much.
I did some minor tweaks to the file, slight changes in contrast, color, like that.

---------- Post added 12-06-19 at 09:03 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by cooltouch Quote
Exposure for the moon is very straightforward. Keep in mind, you're photographing a fairly bright light. The exposure I've always used, with a slight f/stop mod at times, is 1/125 @ f/8 @ ISO 100. The slight f/stop mod is to stop down to f/11. Often this results in better contrast. But obviously we can't do that with an f/8 mirror.

When I'm shooting the moon, I have to use the display to focus, but I don't always trust it, so I will refocus and shoot several times. Then in post production, I will compare the photos at 100% size and select the sharpest one. This usually gives me a good image.

The following is a color image. You can see the slight yellows and browns and blues in the moon's surface. Taken with a Tamron 500mm mirror -- the second version -- and a Sony NEX 7. 1/125 @ ISO 100.
Very nice. I suppose the K-5 isn't able to do as nice a job as this. I must have done it right by now. I've been fiddling with it for over a month


Last edited by jack002; 12-06-2019 at 08:01 PM.
12-06-2019, 09:14 PM - 1 Like   #1112
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On the contrary, I would think. I've never used a K-5, but it seems to be more than capable enough for this sort of photography. True, the NEX 7 has a higher megapixel count, but 16 mp is no slouch, and should be plenty to get good photos. My first DSLR was a 10.1 mp Canon, and I was able to get decent shots of the full moon with it, using LV. Its OVF was pretty bad.

Your latest image is your best yet, but I think you can still do better. One thing I've noticed, even with the Tamron, which has an almost 360 degree focus throw, is that exact focus is very touchy. The slightest movement of the focusing collar can bring an image in or out of focus. This is why I always take multiple shots of the moon.
12-07-2019, 06:59 AM - 1 Like   #1113
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Great moon shot Michael. Your exposure almost exactly corresponds to the lunar-11 rule if you factor in the actual T-stop (transmission) rather than f stop. The lunar 11 rule also only applies exactly to a full moon, partial or occluded/eclipsed moons are not as bright.
Last resort to get your focus at the moment Jack: repeated shoot- review enlarged pic on the lcd - adjust. Laborious, but you can get there in the end. Have you tried spot metering? Also try Av mode and bump the exposure compensation right down, see if that stops the view of the moon in LV washing out.
12-07-2019, 07:09 AM   #1114
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That's a good point, marcus. I've found that, with my NEX, sometimes if I'm viewing a dimly lit subject, in order to even see it in LV, I have to switch to Av, where it automatically compensates for brightness. But often this reduces the shutter speed down way past where I want it, so I end up doing a two-step approach. First, focus in Av, then switch to Manual for the exposure. I should mention, though, that the full moon isn't one of these problem areas for me. But I don't trust the camera's meter when it comes to metering the moon. You have a bright object surrounded by total darkness, so the camera's meter will tend to average the scene, unless you've selected spot or something equally restrictive, and the result is the moon will just be a white circle.

12-13-2019, 10:14 PM - 1 Like   #1115
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Another moon. I took three shots, refocused every time. This was the best of three
12-16-2019, 02:02 PM - 1 Like   #1116
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QuoteOriginally posted by jack002 Quote
No, used a tripod, a 2 second self timer, a remote shutter.
I try to use the LV but its so over exposed I can't see anything.
After this I tried taking that clear filter off the back, and made sure the lens was completely clean

---------- Post added 12-06-19 at 09:13 AM ----------



I have the K-5, using LV isn't working. Its way overexposed and I can't tell what I'm looking at. I also use the x10 in LV
I made a batanov mask, it doesn't seem to work.
The idea of doing a short burst while changing focus seems really difficult. The image shakes if I touch it even on a heavy tripod.
I remember a couple of years ago trying to get a moon shot with my K-S2 in live view. The image was just white, with no details until I switched to video mode, then I was seeing craters and maria. I fucused in video mode and the switched back to stills to actually shoot. I never understood (and never really bothered to figure out why) my live view behaved this way. I haven't really done much lunar photography since, but I wonder how my KP would respond. I've got 500mm and 1000mm mirrors I should try slapping on it...
12-16-2019, 05:51 PM   #1117
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I think what's going on with your K-S2 is that it's metering the actual light coming through the lens and, if you're using a long lens, the exposure is gonna be more accurate. Perhaps it defaults to Aperture Priority auto when you switch to video mode? Come to think of it, even Program would work similarly if the mode wasn't able to change the lens aperture.

12-18-2019, 09:52 AM   #1118
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QuoteOriginally posted by Thagomizer Quote
I remember a couple of years ago trying to get a moon shot with my K-S2 in live view. The image was just white, with no details until I switched to video mode, then I was seeing craters and maria. I fucused in video mode and the switched back to stills to actually shoot. I never understood (and never really bothered to figure out why) my live view behaved this way. I haven't really done much lunar photography since, but I wonder how my KP would respond. I've got 500mm and 1000mm mirrors I should try slapping on it...
Excellent tip! I will try it. No reason I can't focus in movie mode then switch back to picture mode. Thank you!
12-18-2019, 10:46 AM - 1 Like   #1119
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First pic from mirror lens

My first pic from centon 500 f8. Looks okay for a cheap lens.
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12-18-2019, 11:24 AM - 1 Like   #1120
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QuoteOriginally posted by jack002 Quote
Excellent tip! I will try it. No reason I can't focus in movie mode then switch back to picture mode. Thank you!
You're welcome!
12-21-2019, 03:06 PM   #1121
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I like the pictures that have been posted and wondering if anyone has used a


Sigma Mirror-Telephoto 600mm F8.0

I have been looking at one in the market place
12-21-2019, 04:11 PM - 1 Like   #1122
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The sigma 600mm is ok - IF you get a good one. They are prone to silvering deterioration and they seem to have quite wide sample variation. Depends on price and condition but personally I wouldn't get a sigma ahead of a tamron SP. I've had a look at 3 now, only one was in the same ballpark as a tamron for results.

Last edited by marcusBMG; 12-23-2019 at 09:55 AM.
12-21-2019, 07:27 PM   #1123
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thanks Marcus, this is the information I was looking for. Now to find a lens
12-22-2019, 07:48 PM - 1 Like   #1124
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QuoteOriginally posted by danielsond Quote
I like the pictures that have been posted and wondering if anyone has used a


Sigma Mirror-Telephoto 600mm F8.0

I have been looking at one in the market place
I have a Sigma-made Spiratone Ultratel f8 500mm. It's fun to use. Not a compact mirror lens design, though.
12-23-2019, 09:58 AM   #1125
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QuoteOriginally posted by danielsond Quote
thanks Marcus
You'r welcome.
Add: you might be able to pick a sigma 600mm up real cheap with eg MD mount. Diy mount swap is easy - no aperture connections. Just need a PK mount off an old lens or use a cheap PK-M42 adapter. Drill it and screw it on in place of the old mount.
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