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12-28-2009, 03:52 PM   #46
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jewelltrail Quote
I note your observations were reserved for Peter here, but wanted to express that I love the lens @ 10mm--I find it evenly sharp @ the borders and corners--even at full resolution--as evenly sharp as one could possibly expect.
true, but you need to step down with it. I'm sure it is a great lens and it is my second choice after the SMCP 12-24. I prefer it over the Tammy 10-24 eventhough that it has an extra 4mm to offer, I would be better off getting a prime 24.

12-28-2009, 03:56 PM   #47
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QuoteOriginally posted by axl Quote
I have used my 10-20 for street shots on several occasions. Usually with camera over the shoulder and cable release, but sometimes just "right in their faces". Since it's FOV is so wide, one has to be very, very close so subject usually doesn't even realize he/she is being photographed

BR
Peter
that's what I like about ultrawides. it can be very stealthy in it's own way.
12-28-2009, 04:25 PM   #48
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bY the way. With my lens on the K20D i need to shoot it about 1 stop over to get proper exposer. Does anyone else have this problem?
12-28-2009, 05:55 PM   #49
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I love mine. I haven't found a perfect outlet for it yet, but here is my favourite from a motorcycle trip in BC, taken at 10mm, F22.



12-28-2009, 07:51 PM - 1 Like   #50
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One more for portrait and street

Another user of the Sigma 10-20mm for portraiture and streets. Distortion can work for or against you.



12-28-2009, 08:03 PM - 1 Like   #51
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12-28-2009, 08:46 PM   #52
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QuoteQuote:
Pentaxor: true, but you need to step down with it. I'm sure it is a great lens and it is my second choice after the SMCP 12-24. I prefer it over the Tammy 10-24 eventhough that it has an extra 4mm to offer, I would be better off getting a prime 24.
Actually, I love it wide open too. Yes, the Da 12-24 is a great lens--no doubt. But it is pricey and it does have some PF issues which the Sigma does not have.

Jarvier, of your most recent post, I really like the 3rd one.

Grainbelt--that is a great shot--did you PP the flare out, or did your lens resist flare that well into direct sunlight? I mean, there are subtle traces of flare, but really minimal when you consider what you asked the lens to do here.
12-28-2009, 11:55 PM   #53
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jewelltrail Quote
Actually, I love it wide open too. Yes, the Da 12-24 is a great lens--no doubt. But it is pricey and it does have some PF issues which the Sigma does not have.
Yes, the PF can be a real pain. but that's what you get for something of high micro-contrast and sharpness. I do decrease the contrast intentionally inorder to lessen PF, then further pp it. aside from sharpness and contrast, the color rendering is one of the plus factors that swung me on getting the 12-24. also, I find the 24mm fl very good and very useful as opposed to the 10mm fl on the wide side. that eliminated my need for a 24mm lens.

it is really pricey, that's why the only time I got myself the 12-24 is when I got an offer of a used copy for a few hundred bucks off and a used 10-20 being sold at the same time for a much lesser price (200 bucks less I believe). if the 12-24 wasn't being sold at that time, I would had posted some pics from the 10-20 here by now.

12-29-2009, 04:14 AM   #54
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgredline Quote
bY the way. With my lens on the K20D i need to shoot it about 1 stop over to get proper exposer. Does anyone else have this problem?
On my K10 it's the same, but I shoot in M mode now most of the time. 1st shot is the meter reading + educcatedd guestimate, then check the histogram adjust Tv and off you go...
12-29-2009, 09:12 AM   #55
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jgredline: bY the way. With my lens on the K20D i need to shoot it about 1 stop over to get proper exposer. Does anyone else have this problem?
Mine meters nicely on the K20d.
12-29-2009, 09:31 AM   #56
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Thanks Guys. Strange, but on my K10D and K20D it was always underexposing by about .7 to 1.0 EV and on the K100DS and K-7 it is pretty spot on. Oh well, the end result is what matters to me.
12-29-2009, 02:31 PM   #57
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgredline Quote
Thanks Guys. Strange, but on my K10D and K20D it was always underexposing by about .7 to 1.0 EV and on the K100DS and K-7 it is pretty spot on. Oh well, the end result is what matters to me.
you can blame the metering on that. anyway, good thing that we have EV compensation these days.
12-29-2009, 02:41 PM   #58
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QuoteOriginally posted by jgredline Quote
Thanks Guys. Strange, but on my K10D and K20D it was always underexposing by about .7 to 1.0 EV and on the K100DS and K-7 it is pretty spot on. Oh well, the end result is what matters to me.
I wonder if this has anything to do with you being in sunny LA and the others being in not so sunny places like London and RI. If I'm working with a tripod on a bright day, I put my thumb over the eyepiece for metering because the difference in EV (due to light entering through VF) is about what you've experienced with your underexposure. I have K10 and K20 too.
12-29-2009, 05:04 PM   #59
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QuoteOriginally posted by Damn Brit Quote
I wonder if this has anything to do with you being in sunny LA and the others being in not so sunny places like London and RI. If I'm working with a tripod on a bright day, I put my thumb over the eyepiece for metering because the difference in EV (due to light entering through VF) is about what you've experienced with your underexposure. I have K10 and K20 too.
I do believe that combination of strong sunlight, metering mode will have impact. I don't think VF matters, my 10-20 at 10 mm was/is underexposing even if I'm looking through VF but mostly it's doing so on segment and spot metering. With centrewighted it's ok... but as I said, I do it on M these days, so it doesn't bother me really, but on Av mode my experiences are very similar to Javier's.

Peter
12-29-2009, 05:05 PM - 1 Like   #60
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