Quote: soppy: I believe you essentially treat the lens like a prime once you get the wideness you want through the focal length. Then you must simply walk to where the subject is in focus, otherwise you would ruin the hyperfocal distance. This is just a guess of course, as I am pretty confused about the whole thing anyways.
Sorry for the confusion--we will resolve this--bear with me.
You still use the zoom like you always did. Once you select an aperture and focal length, then move the focus ring to the correct hyperfocal distance and you are Golden--it is that simple.
If you look at your 10-20 lens, just between the zoom ring & focus ring, you will see 2, vertical white lines. You simply align, in our example, the 1 meter/3 feet mark of the focus ring, with this line.
It is one of those things in life which sounds painful when you read about it--doing it is actually simple. If you dislike math, there are online charts which will do all the calculations for you--all you do is plug in the variables.
BTW, photographers often use the hyperfocal distance, on wide to normal FLs, when they want assurance they have maximum depth of field. The application is not so useful for telephoto lenses.
In summary, the only difference using the hyperfocal distance is, instead of using AF with the shutter button, you move the focus ring to max focus point(hyperfocal distance) first--then you trip the shutter button--obviously you must be in Manual Focus.
If you Google this, I'm sure you will get tons of hits, with other words to convey the same message which might help. Best of luck. Do not hesitate to ask another question though.