[Jewelltrail]

I never thought of my Sigma 10-20mm as a people lens. Then I watched Jarvier (aka, jgredline) post all kinds of people shots with the lens--so I started trying it for portraits and similar shots and I am delighted with how it performs. Of course, you need to have a very comfortable relationship with your subjects to get this close.

*Warning* Neither the subject (s), nor the photographer should have eaten garlic in the last few hours for these kinds of shoots.

This shot: 20mm, f 5.6, ISO 1000, 1/40th, flash assisted.

[IMG][/IMG]

[PFH]

One with my K-7 and my Sigma 10-20/f4-5,6 from today.

[jgredline]

Yes, one must be close with this lens. which is one reason I like it.






My boy

[Andi Lo]

Here's some perspective corrected shots

[jgredline]

Andi, What program did you use to correct the images? They look great.

[Jewelltrail]

Pentaxor: corners and borders are soft at 10mm Peter. center sharpness is fine. nice view btw.

I note your observations were reserved for Peter here, but wanted to express that I love the lens @ 10mm--I find it evenly sharp @ the borders and corners--even at full resolution--as evenly sharp as one could possibly expect.

This one is 10mm, no cropping, f9, 13 secs, 100 ISO--no software corrections applied.

[IMG][/IMG]

[jgredline]

I have found the sweet spot to be F/8 and try to keep it there as much as I can. I have found the 10mm distortion to be very lovable when used right. From about 14mm to 20mm there is really little to no distortion. Atleast none that bothers me.

What are some of your findings folks?

[jgredline]

[calicojack]

I just received my 10-20. Now I need to learn how to use it.

[Andi Lo]

Andi, What program did you use to correct the images? They look great.

Thanks Javier, I used Photoshop CS4 myself, but I think there should be other (free) ways to correct it as well... Like you I enjoy the 10mm distortion when it looks nice, but for architecture shots it just needs to be corrected

And just FYI for Sigma 10-20 to-be-purchasers, from my personal experience at this focal length, even an unsharp image can look great when sized down... try quoting my previous post and scroll down and click on the third image (the imgwide script will not work and you'll see a 1:1 image), and you'll see that that image is actually super soft, but looks great when sized down. The other two that I posted are great though, so I suspect that in this case it's camera shake from people opening doors behind me, check your copy carefully after buying!

Another tip is if you get a great copy that back/frontfocuses (like mine), ask seller for discount and consider just keeping it, since it's so easy to achieve hyperfocal with this lens and manual focusing is quite a pleasure (best out of all my AF lenses). As per another forumer's suggestion, if you leave it at 10mm, f/8, and focused at 1m, everything from .5m to infinity will be in focus. Since I mostly use this lens for architecture, AF is not an issue (and can sometimes be a hindrance), so YMMV

[PFH]

Congrats on your new 10-20 caliaojack, I´m sure you wont be disapointed.
Sigma 10-20/f4-5,6

[axl]

I have used my 10-20 for street shots on several occasions. Usually with camera over the shoulder and cable release, but sometimes just "right in their faces". Since it's FOV is so wide, one has to be very, very close so subject usually doesn't even realize he/she is being photographed
Here is few examples:







BR
Peter

[axl]

Tsnip.... Axl-your london pictures turned out nice too! How long of an exposure was the second one of the statue? It's my fav.
....snip

Thank you,
The 2nd shot had exposure of 15s.

[calicojack]

I just received my 10-20. Now I need to learn how to use it.

... and a quick trip to a local park yielded
p.s. Yes, the sign is actually bent, not distorted by the perspective.

[calicojack]

... and for those of you that might wonder about the range of 10mm - 20mm, these two are shot from the exect same place.