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10-14-2007, 01:24 PM   #1
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Wireless Flash for K10D + M42 lenses?

A relatively simple question...Will the AF360 (or AF540) work in wireless, manual exposure mode for use with my K10D and m42 lenses?

Thanks in advance.
Damian

10-14-2007, 05:09 PM   #2
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Sort of. You can set everything in fully manual (camera and flash), and the external flash will be a 'dumb' slave, as in anyone's flash will set it off. The body does not act (in this capacity) as an actual wireless controller - meaning you will have to block the light from the built-in flash if you don't want it in your photo.
10-14-2007, 07:42 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by carpents Quote
Sort of. You can set everything in fully manual (camera and flash), and the external flash will be a 'dumb' slave, as in anyone's flash will set it off. The body does not act (in this capacity) as an actual wireless controller - meaning you will have to block the light from the built-in flash if you don't want it in your photo.
Sorry Sean, I'm a TOTAL newbie to flash work. I tend to use SR and faster primes to get what I want, but I'm doing a professional product shoot this weekend and need a setup.

First, a question about your response. Does the light from the built-in flash trigger the 'wireless' slave ? If so, do I have to bounce the on-board flash toward the AF360 to get it to fire, while keeping it out of my FOV? How does one accomplish this

Would there be a better solution to this than my m42 lenses? Maybe buy a kit lens so I can use TTL instead? I imagine I'd be stopping down to f8 (or optimal f-stop) anyway, so sharpness should be fine with the flash...correct?

Thanks for your help!
Damian
10-15-2007, 04:50 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by d.bradley Quote
First, a question about your response. Does the light from the built-in flash trigger the 'wireless' slave ? If so, do I have to bounce the on-board flash toward the AF360 to get it to fire, while keeping it out of my FOV? How does one accomplish this

Would there be a better solution to this than my m42 lenses? Maybe buy a kit lens so I can use TTL instead? I imagine I'd be stopping down to f8 (or optimal f-stop) anyway, so sharpness should be fine with the flash...correct?

Thanks for your help!
Damian
Hi Damian!

Yes, in my scenario I try to bounce the light towards the flash. You can use a piece of aluminum foil to do this. The downside to this method is that it limits how far away (and how consistently) the wireless flash is triggered. If you're indoors and the flash is far brighter than anything else it works almost all of the time. But if you're outdoors, or if something is obstructing the front of the flash, or if you're too far away, this method is unrelieable.

A better solution is undoubtedly to use radio triggers, like Pocket Wizards or one of the eBay types. This is the solution that I'm personally investigating, but I have no first-hand experience to share. If you look up a recent post by Mike Cash, he is using an eBay wireless trigger with his M42 lenses.

HTH,
Sean

10-15-2007, 09:36 AM   #5
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Hmm...so I can bounce the on-board to hit the slave. Okay, that's one option.

Now what about springing for the AF540, adjusting the yaw (and pitch), and bouncing to the side to get some better lighting angles? I can use that on the hot shoe with my m42's, still 100% manual...right?

Are there any cheaper flashes that swivle? Then again, it's $200 extra for the AF540, or $269 for the pocket wizard.

This flash stuff is costly!
10-15-2007, 10:48 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by d.bradley Quote
Hmm...so I can bounce the on-board to hit the slave. Okay, that's one option.

Now what about springing for the AF540, adjusting the yaw (and pitch), and bouncing to the side to get some better lighting angles? I can use that on the hot shoe with my m42's, still 100% manual...right?

Are there any cheaper flashes that swivle? Then again, it's $200 extra for the AF540, or $269 for the pocket wizard.

This flash stuff is costly!
If I'm remembering this correctly, since the K10 doesn't have a true TTL sensor in it, the flash fires at 100% in Av mode with manual lenses. So if you're willing to shoot in Manual mode (both camera and flash) and don't want the wireless support then you'll be just as well off with the 500FTZ flash for a LOT less. I have one, and it is a far superior flash to the 360FGZ (which I also have) in all aspects; it is more powerful, tilts/swivels/rotates fully, has external PC and power connections, and is easier to manage its manual settings.

Instead of Pocket Wizards, there are much cheaper eBay triggers. If you have some time it might be worth the $30 to see if they work for you!
10-15-2007, 03:49 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by d.bradley Quote
Would there be a better solution to this than my m42 lenses? Maybe buy a kit lens so I can use TTL instead? I imagine I'd be stopping down to f8 (or optimal f-stop) anyway, so sharpness should be fine with the flash...correct?
Or any A lens (or after) would give you P-TTL.
It all depends on whether you want to work in Manual or P-TTL.

For me, I much much prefer to work in P-TTL. It makes things so much easier to set up. I can concentrate on taking pictures and experimenting with different flash / lighting position with different number of flashes instead of worrying about the exposure. And it is great when working with kids.
10-15-2007, 06:05 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by nosnoop Quote
Or any A lens (or after) would give you P-TTL.
It all depends on whether you want to work in Manual or P-TTL.

For me, I much much prefer to work in P-TTL. It makes things so much easier to set up. I can concentrate on taking pictures and experimenting with different flash / lighting position with different number of flashes instead of worrying about the exposure. And it is great when working with kids.

I'm thinking that given time constraints, that for this product shoot, lighting will be more important than lens resolution...that a cheap AF lens stopped down, using P-TTL with a pentax flash would probably be the most user-friendly solution for a flash-neophite.

So more newbie questions. With wireless P-TTL, is the on-board flash still used as a trigger for the slave? If so, how is the on-board flash lighting kept out of the photo?

10-15-2007, 08:05 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by d.bradley Quote
So more newbie questions. With wireless P-TTL, is the on-board flash still used as a trigger for the slave?
Yes, you have to use the on-board flash or attach an external flash as the trigger.

QuoteQuote:
If so, how is the on-board flash lighting kept out of the photo?
In the K10D custom menu (if using pop-up flash as trigger), you can set if you want to use the pop-up flash to contribute to the exposure, or just want it to be used as a control flash (it will not contribute to the exposure). If using an attached external flash, you can set it to "C" mode.

This works well most of the time. But as the flash still has to fire (albeit at low power) even when used in control mode, if you are very close to the object or using a very wide aperture, you may still see some effect (shadow) from the control flash firing. I haven't found this to be a problem so far, but I have heard of some Nikon users using a IR filter on the on-board flash; not sure if Pentax flash could work the same though.

There is one additional advantage of using an attached Pentax external flash as the master in wireless flash operation. You can set the Master:Slave contrast control flash ratio easily from the attached flash (no need to attend to the remote slave flash). Only Pentax flash has this feature, Sigma flash does not.
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